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Topic: Stuck at work (Read 2336 times) previous topic - next topic

Stuck at work

I'm desperate, I have an 88 Sport Coupe that won't start. Turns over fine. The fuel pump relay is humming (thought it was my blower fan) and the car never starts. Replaced the relay thinking it was an easy fix but no joy. Car is totally stock, any suggestions on what could have given out.
Car started fine this morning.

Stuck at work

Reply #1
Does it have spark ?
Fox-less at the moment

Stuck at work

Reply #2
Have no real tools with me, how can I check for spark?
PS No inertia switch, removed that 10 years ago. Can't hear the pump over the relay noise.

Stuck at work

Reply #3
if you have screwdriver or similar  . remove a plug wire stick the screwdriver in the wire and lay the screw driver on something metal DONT HOLD ON TO IT  crank the engine and spark will jump from the screwdriver to ground .
Fox-less at the moment

Stuck at work

Reply #4
Got spark now what?  What would cause a brand new fuel pump relay to make noise like a blower motor?

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Reply #5
Is this the black square relay under the hood making noise? Or the pump in the tank?  If a relay is continuously clicking, then it isn't getting a solid power signal.

Real relays shouldn't hum.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Stuck at work

Reply #6
I had the fuel pump relay buzz like that when I was having grounding issues.
1986 Mercury Cougar - 2.3T/T5 swap, TC brakes and suspension and rearend, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, Stinger BOV, Gillis MBC @ 18 psi
2003 Chevy Suburban Z71 - Daily driver
2015 Chevy Volt - Wife's daily driver

Stuck at work

Reply #7
Quote from: Loaded87IROC;358120
I had the fuel pump relay buzz like that when I was having grounding issues.

See? Bad signal power to the relay. Use some jumper wires to the battery from the small wires on the relay and head home. Don't forget to unhook them though!
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Stuck at work

Reply #8
Where does the power come from normally, the ignition switch?

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Reply #9
Hmm...Should. I think Jcassity has an EVTM posted online somewhere...Hold please.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Stuck at work

Reply #10
Well, here's the EVTM:

http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f162/jcassity_bucket/?start=all

Unfortunately, I have no idea which picture holds the info you want. The power either comes out of the ECM or the switch. I would just look for a way to piggyback in right next to the relay though.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Stuck at work

Reply #11
Do you have a constant snapping spark as it's cranking, or do you just have one spark at the end of the cranking? The former is correct, the latter is incorrect. One spark at the end of cranking means one of several things, bad pickup coil, bad ignition module, or a bad ecm relay (don't remember if this one applies to our cars or not, but once I had a bronco with this issue).

You could also have a worn timing chain if the car has high miles. I had a 3.8 that slipped the chain and wouldn't start with proper spark and fuel.

I have heard that a blocked catalytic converter can cause a no-start too, but I never experienced that one.
CoogarXR : 1985 Cougar XR-7