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Topic: Brake problem with 86 TC (Read 3940 times) previous topic - next topic

Brake problem with 86 TC

Guys, My breaks were kind of mushy and I just figured it was a leaky rear brake drum cylinder. I replaced both cylinders since they were cheap. I also replaced the rear shoes, drums, and master cylinder(also cheap). I blead the brakes and they still feel the same! The car will stop, however the peddle it is almost all the way to the floor. I can hear that wooshing sound from the brake booster too.

What should I check?
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #1 –
Was the wooshing sound always there? Did you prime the master cylinder be4 you installed it?

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Miah;352788
Did you prime the master cylinder be4 you installed it?

 
+1

It sounds like you've got an unsealed or low system.  Check for leaks.  Are you doing this alone?  Do you have a power bleeder?
__________________
Twin '85 TCs
White/ Grey 2-tone
#1 (left): undergoing top-to-bottom rebuild     
#2 (right): DD, power everything (sorta)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #3 –
OK I checked for leaks and there is no leaks in the system. I re-bled the brakes and I have peddle, ONLY when the car is off. Once I start the car, my peddle sinks all the way to the floor.

Whats the problem! I dont think the grommet on the booster check valve bleeding because the car does not change rpm at idle when I press on the peddle. Is the brake booster bad?
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #4 –
Ford DIY Service Manual:
"Pedal goes to floor" - low fluid or leak

Ford Shop Manual:
"Excessive pedal travel or pedal goes to floor" - air in system, loose brake tube end fittings, drum brakes improperly adjusted, loose wheel bearings (front), loose/missing pedal bushings/fasteners
__________________
Twin '85 TCs
White/ Grey 2-tone
#1 (left): undergoing top-to-bottom rebuild     
#2 (right): DD, power everything (sorta)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #5 –
Vacuum *shouldn't* be an issue WRT to pedal travel.  That said, it's possible to have a vacuum leak that doesn't make itself evident at idle.  In above post, I bolded what looked to be something you hadn't double-checked.
__________________
Twin '85 TCs
White/ Grey 2-tone
#1 (left): undergoing top-to-bottom rebuild     
#2 (right): DD, power everything (sorta)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #6 –
Quote from: t3skidoo;352961
Vacuum *shouldn't* be an issue WRT to pedal travel.  That said, it's possible to have a vacuum leak that doesn't make itself evident at idle.  In above post, I bolded what looked to be something you hadn't double-checked.

 
I didnt adjust the rear drum shoes. I was told they were self adjusting, so I just installed them and thats it. Let me know if I have to adjust them.
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!
 

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #7 –
They self-adjust from being used, so you have to drive for them to do their thing. 

Do the brakes stop the car at all?
__________________
Twin '85 TCs
White/ Grey 2-tone
#1 (left): undergoing top-to-bottom rebuild     
#2 (right): DD, power everything (sorta)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #8 –
yes, but the peddle is against the floor almost
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #9 –
87 manual says the drum brakes self adjust by braking lightly going in reverse, then pulling forward a bit, then backing up and braking again, until the brakes get tight enough. You have to adjust them out to where they are just touching when you install them or you won't get pedal.

There should be an inspection plug you can pop out to access the adjuster without taking off the wheels.

Your car should be similar.

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #10 –
Yup, adjust the rear drums out.  There's an access port at the bottom of the backing plates.  You have to use a bladed screwdriver to turn the adjuster.  Usually the adjuster portion is facing the rear of the car, so on the driver side you need to rotate the adjuster up, and on the pass side down, to get get the adjuster to expand.

If you can't figure out which way, just pull the wheel/drum and adjust it until you can just barely get the drum back on, and you should be good.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon-  '81 Granada GL 2dr

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #11 –
Yeah, all that, and the unanswered question from above: Did you bench bleed the MC before installation?
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #12 –
I bench bled the MC before I installed it. I adjusted the the brakes and no change. I just got done removing the brake booster because there was nothing else left to check. Before I removed it, while the car was off, I pushed on the peddle and peddle was hard. I then went under the hood and removed the booster check valve and depressed the peddle again, and it was just as hard with the brake booster open. I did this same test with 5 cars in the jy and the result was different. With the jy cars the peddle would go to the floor and you would hear that woosh of air from the hole where the check valve was removed. On my car you cant hear the woosh of air and the peddle goes nowhere and is hard. Pulled it out and took it to parts store and its definitely the problem.


Anyone know an easy way to install a brake booster. Sure was a b*tch to remove it. what really complicated things were the clutch cable and the fuel lines.
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #13 –
Not meaning to hi-jack this thread, but I've been fighting this same problem for a while now. My brakes work, but the pedal feels terrible. I would bleed them, the brakes feel solid while the car is off; but as soon as I turn the car on, the pedal goes almost to the floor. I've replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, all three rubber hoses, 90% of the metal lines, both front calipers, both rear shoes and springs. Old drums though. We just grinded them down...

Does this sound like my problem would be the drums are out of adjustment? My father thinks that the problem might be this kinda...block below the master cylinder. All the lines from the MC screw into the "block" and then back out to the actual brakes. He's thinking this because it's just about the only thing I didn't replace yet.
2002 Honda Civic EX

1984 Ford Thunderbird Elan
5.0 CFI, T5, Dual Exhaust

Brake problem with 86 TC

Reply #14 –
Quote from: dragon574444;353093
Not meaning to hi-jack this thread, but I've been fighting this same problem for a while now. My brakes work, but the pedal feels terrible. I would bleed them, the brakes feel solid while the car is off; but as soon as I turn the car on, the pedal goes almost to the floor. I've replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, all three rubber hoses, 90% of the metal lines, both front calipers, both rear shoes and springs. Old drums though. We just grinded them down...

Does this sound like my problem would be the drums are out of adjustment? My father thinks that the problem might be this kinda...block below the master cylinder. All the lines from the MC screw into the "block" and then back out to the actual brakes. He's thinking this because it's just about the only thing I didn't replace yet.

Well I replaced the brake booster by just taking the motor mounts loose and raising the engine up enough to get booster in. Went in without much effort. Only thing I didnt do was put all 4 nuts back on . The upper left nut was to hard to get to so that one didnt go back in. I'm sure I'm not the only person to ever do that.

Anyway after installing, THE ISSUE IS STILL THERE!!!! ARRRGH!  Just like you, I replaced everything but that rectangular copper colored thingy in between the brake lines and MC.

I just gave up and  brought the car to a brake specialist. I will be sure to share the outcome with you, so you can fix your car as well.
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!