Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #45 – January 17, 2011, 07:07:08 PM Quote from: 20thanniver-ls;349984Is this the one you are talking about Vinnie? I was thinking about picking one of these up myself....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-97-FORD-MUSTANG-255LPH-FUEL-PUMP-255-LPH-RACING-NEW-/320539082237?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa19e3dfd Doesn't look like the right filter (sock) to me plus the output hole is smaller than the walbro unit I put in a couple of years back. With that filter the car would be out of gas at 2 gallons when I used one like that.. Plus on hard turns it would run dry with under 3-4 gallons of gas Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #46 – January 18, 2011, 01:21:06 AM good show,, obviously your fuel pres is good. I am surprised at your findings,, your presure should have dropped as your RPM's increased in each gear.Ok,, not fuel pump related.No your AOD will not store codes., so I suggest you get your tail under the car and look at the moving parts from the fire wall down to the transmission with respect to your shifter linkages.Not to say EECiV is not able to as it was also used during the E4OD transmissions, I dont know. Never had one show up on my Bronco, never will since i swapped in a 5speed to the 351 EFI.You may find that there is a broken plastic bushing on the parts that rotate agains each other. This will add unwanted slop in the transmission.Also, you should adjust your TV cable up at the throttle body to eliminiate irreguar shifts. check my diy link, instructions in there courtesy of V8Demon who figured it all out. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #47 – January 18, 2011, 01:27:05 AM Was your previous motor a 3.8L ? Did you complement the install with an eec and complete wire harness?grimlins i saythis could get trickywhat do the codes convert to,, see diy link below. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #48 – January 18, 2011, 01:28:32 AM Quote from: sarjxxx;349914That sounds like a joke but I don't get it.//nevermind No, its not a joke,, its in the shop manual to tape a fuel pres guage to the windshield and drive it.I thought it was my own idea ,, then i found it as a test step one day a couple years ago in the manual.As you can see, it was a perfect real load test to truely see the fuel pump performance. Nothing like this can be simulated in the garage with the car in park. At best you get static pressures under not so noiminal conditions,,imho only, im no expert. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #49 – January 18, 2011, 01:31:37 AM Quote from: 20thanniver-ls;349984Is this the one you are talking about Vinnie? I was thinking about picking one of these up myself....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-97-FORD-MUSTANG-255LPH-FUEL-PUMP-255-LPH-RACING-NEW-/320539082237?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa19e3dfd Nope,more like this one........http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/255LPH-High-Performance-Fuel-Pump-Install-Kit-/270691691780?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f067b6d04 Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #50 – January 18, 2011, 01:39:59 AM Quote from: jpc647;349985 got the same ones as always, 67, then a 1, then 63 and 33. Whatever the light is, I doesn't store a code. So now we know it's not ignition, its not fuel related... What could it be!? Ill shoot in the dark,,get yourself a cheap buttstuffog meter and measure the TPS Im betting you will see a momentary open in the TPS.Most of the time a tps will work a worn out spot inside it. What i mean is that at the same position (as with relation to the position of the gas pedal) the problem should occure. If you happen to notice the problem is pretty much in the same gas pedal location then your on to something.when your ready to read the tps and need help, let us know,,easy to do.,,in the diy link as well.What car did the eec come from? seems odd the trans code however, the transmission range selector switch may be mis aligned just do to the very reasons i pointed out earlier having to do with the plastic bushings being broken or missing.code 1 is nothing more than a separator pulse,, ignor it but go to the diy link to understand what its doing. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #51 – January 18, 2011, 01:44:48 AM Quote from: vinnietbird;350033Nope,more like this one........http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/255LPH-High-Performance-Fuel-Pump-Install-Kit-/270691691780?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f067b6d04 thats an interesting looking sock.oem is more solid with a hard plastic skeleton with the granular mesh. this one looks all fabric like with respect to the sock.Looks like a direct swap part to me,, 7day money back? Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #52 – January 18, 2011, 09:27:06 AM Quote from: jcassity;350030good show,, obviously your fuel pres is good. I am surprised at your findings,, your presure should have dropped as your RPM's increased in each gear.Ok,, not fuel pump related. Well the fuel pressure did drop between gear shifts, it wen’t from about 40 or 39 psi down to about 35/36 psi, then back up if under load. At no point did it drop below 29/30 psi though.Quote from: jcassity;350030 No your AOD will not store codes., so I suggest you get your tail under the car and look at the moving parts from the fire wall down to the transmission with respect to your shifter linkages.Not to say EECiV is not able to as it was also used during the E4OD transmissions, I dont know. Never had one show up on my Bronco, never will since i swapped in a 5speed to the 351 EFI.You may find that there is a broken plastic bushing on the parts that rotate agains each other. This will add unwanted slop in the transmission.Also, you should adjust your TV cable up at the throttle body to eliminiate irreguar shifts. check my diy link, instructions in there courtesy of V8Demon who figured it all out.I don’t know if it is a transmission code, but the check engine light stays solid, for the occurrence of the event. I was mistaken originally. I will look underneath the car, I know the bushing seemed fine a month ago when I was underneath it fixing the floor pan. I will look in the DIY link for the adjustment up on the engine side. I know Ford makes a replacement set thing for a couple of dollars, I might order one up just for some assurance, if it isn’t an arm and a leg.Quote from: jcassity;350034Ill shoot in the dark,,get yourself a cheap buttstuffog meter and measure the TPS Im betting you will see a momentary open in the TPS.Most of the time a tps will work a worn out spot inside it. What i mean is that at the same position (as with relation to the position of the gas pedal) the problem should occure. If you happen to notice the problem is pretty much in the same gas pedal location then your on to something.when your ready to read the tps and need help, let us know,,easy to do.,,in the diy link as well.What car did the eec come from? seems odd the trans code however, the transmission range selector switch may be mis aligned just do to the very reasons i pointed out earlier having to do with the plastic bushings being broken or missing.code 1 is nothing more than a separator pulse,, ignor it but go to the diy link to understand what its doing.I have a meter, I’ll check the TPS again. I’ll try and try it, again the problem only happens sometimes, usually when going up a hill, but the TPS doesn’t know whether or not the car is moving up a hill, right? I know 1 is the separator code between the “active” problems and the ones the computer has stored in the past 30 warm up cycles or something. The engine was originally a 3.8, and yes, the 5.0 engine harness complete from computer in passenger side kick panel to engine/fuel injection, through to the connectors on the driver’s side next to the fender/firewall. Both the computer and the harness are out of a 1988 Mercury Cougar. I don’t think it’s a gremlin, only because the car has been in its current configuration for like 2 years, and it only started to happen recently. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #53 – January 18, 2011, 08:03:46 PM I still think your dist is in wrong, or your timing chain slipped a tooth. If your still getting a TPS code, your TPS is bad. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #54 – January 21, 2011, 12:34:44 PM Quote from: Haystack;350124I still think your dist is in wrong, or your timing chain slipped a tooth. If your still getting a TPS code, your TPS is bad. I don't understand how the dist. could be in wrong. I don't really understand how the distributor and timing work, I know it's set for about 12 deg. The TPS was from vinnie, so it's a good part. I guess I can check it again, and try another one, if I have one.The only way to check timing tooth by tearing the car apart? Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #55 – January 21, 2011, 12:44:24 PM Now when checking stuff, can you point me to the link in your DIY that shows a person how to properly adjust the TV cable. I see a couple different threads and it seems to be a case by case scenario. Is there a general procedure? Not out of the manual? The one in the manual was done on my car. Maybe I'll have to take it to a tranny shop? I know there is a ford replacement for the grommet, I have to find that too. Would an out of adjustment(slightly) TV cable cause a check engine light of any kind? Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #56 – January 21, 2011, 12:50:41 PM Nope. The EEC has no idea what the AOD is doing. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #57 – January 21, 2011, 10:46:56 PM Quote from: thunderjet302;350385Nope. The EEC has no idea what the AOD is doing. Interesting. So under no cirspoogestances could the check engine light be related to a transmission? Because it almost feels like a tranny slip, like the car doesn't know if it wants to shift or not. I know the TV cable can be adjusted to allow for a firm shift, or a "soft one". I think mine is in the firm area, sometimes the car jerks a little bit when shifting, but it's always done that, even with the v6. So it's not out of the ordinary, but I would like to try to adjust it, but I'm a little scared. The shop manual description is confusing, and when I followed it the first time, it wouldn't shift out of 1st. But eventually I got it. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #58 – January 22, 2011, 07:09:43 PM The right way to check it would be to tear it all apart. When I did my timing chain, I had it ripped apart and back together in about 3 hours. Not fun though.I would mock up a piston stop and see where your top dead center is compared to your dist. and timing pointer. would tell you all you needed to know. If your getting a tps, it means it is bad. Good used parts go bad sometimes. Every thread you have is completely different from the next. You need to make ONE thread, and actually put in it what you have done. If you don't belive that the computer has nothing to do with the tranny, coast in your OD, shut off the key (careful not to lock the steering wheel) and floor it. The engine is off, but still being spun by the transmission. It will down shift and slow you down with the engine off. Quote Selected
Fuel Pumps-Anyone who has bought a new one? Reply #59 – January 22, 2011, 08:52:39 PM Quote from: Haystack;350538The right way to check it would be to tear it all apart. When I did my timing chain, I had it ripped apart and back together in about 3 hours. Not fun though. .I figured. There is no way I’m tearing the car apart in 20 deg weather. Can’t do it. Quote from: Haystack;350538I would mock up a piston stop and see where your top dead center is compared to your dist. and timing pointer. would tell you all you needed to know. .We did this like a week after the intake gasket swap. We brought the number one piston up to tdc. And set the dist. My dad helped me with this. Quote from: Haystack;350538 If your getting a tps, it means it is bad. Good used parts go bad sometimes. I agree good used parts go bad, but this was a good used part and as soon as it went on the car I got the code again. I guess I was trying to figure out if maybe something else could cause the TPS to go out of whack. Quote from: Haystack;350538 Every thread you have is completely different from the next. You need to make ONE thread, and actually put in it what you have done. .I agree. My threads tend to start as one problem, turn into something else. I lose track myself sometimes. I thought I had a fuel problem and was looking for a correct fuel pump, but it seems I don’t have a fuel problem in this case. ,Quote from: Haystack;350538If you don't believe that the computer has nothing to do with the tranny, coast in your OD, shut off the key (careful not to lock the steering wheel) and floor it. The engine is off, but still being spun by the transmission. It will down shift and slow you down with the engine off.This is what I was looking for. I just wanted some confirmation from someone who knew, that it wasn’t connected in any way. Knowing the transmission can’t cause a check engine light, is a relief. I’m still going to try and adjust the TV cable though, see if it changed anything. Quote Selected
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