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Topic: Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10 (Read 12900 times) previous topic - next topic

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #30
Quote from: jpc647;351361
I actually did clear the codes. But again, immediately the code 67 one kept coming back, but that has been fixed.

I can see I am having difficulty explaining the difference between on-demand codes and memory codes.
The 67 was an on-demand code. It was not stored in the memory. It didn't "keep coming back" it was always there and the KOEO self test kept finding it. 

Quote
I ran codes when I got home, and I got 11, 11, then a 1, then 63, 33, 63, 33.

You never mention running KOER self tests. Just getting home with the car all warmed up is the perfect time. Code 33 is an EGR valve not opening problem. The KOER will test the EEC's ability to open the EGR valve.
Quote
Now I’ve been told a couple of things on how to clear the stored codes. Some say remove the pin in the process of the test, other say disconnect the battery.

Yes disconnecting the battery will reset the memory codes. But it clears everything in the KAM, not just the codes. You will have erratic idling until the computer reestablishes some tables it keeps in the KAM.
 
Quote
Could it be that the codes are not deleting? What else can I do to delete them?

Once again, if you rerun KOEO after clearing the codes and they are not there, then you have successfully cleared the codes from memory. If problem reoccures while driving, the EEC will store the codes in memory again.
Quote
But the light came on, so that means the computer should store a code, right!?

Right

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #31
Alright. I think I understand the difference between the two types of codes now. I ran the KOER test tonight, got only code 33. I didn't floor the car though, went down between half and 3/4. I ran the KOEO test tonight and removed the jumper pin as the first memory code was flashing. Now both saved codes should be gone.

 

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #32
My egr valve vacuum line broke, so I capped it. It no longer functions. It has not effected emissions or drive-ability in any way. If you still suspect the egr is bad, plug the line, and make sure the diaphram is not stuck open. Then you will not have to worry about the EGR code and will know if it is effecting anything. If you get the check engine light to come on at all while the car is running, your ECU is in failsafe mode and something is not working correctly. You should either get a code, or the computer is screwed, or you have a short somewhere.

I belive that having a bad ground to the ECU can not only cause problems like you have been describing, but it will throw a TPS code because the TPS is grounded by the computer. So if you have an intermitent ground, it will throw a tps code.

I have not been trying to sound rude, but over the internet it sounds that way. read here.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=44

check everything it tells you to, and check grounds on the pins and resistance to those pins. It only takes one wire or connector to unplug or be loose to cause a problem. Also, check and clean the salt and pepper connections.

When you do a base idle reset, your supposed to drive the car immediately after plugging back in the IAC.

If this doesn't help you, try another computer. I'll bet someone has an SO one they will practically give away. Report back what you find with the resistance and voltages on each sensor and any/all codes. Then someone smarter then I can help you from there.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #33
salt and pepper connections
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=85
What all your sensors look like, and what they do.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=10
Actuators
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=11
A simplified version of what the computer is doing, and what sensors it is using.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=64

There used to be a map of what voltages should be to test them. I cannot find it.

I am sure I have linked you to many, if not all of these in the past. Then you started a new thread saying it was a new issue.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #34
Quote from: jpc647;351505
I ran the KOER test tonight, got only code 33.

So the 33 code is not an intermittent problem that only happens when you are driving. The KOER test found the problem and posted an on demand code 33.
The EGR valve is opened by vacuum. The EEC controls the vacuum to the EGR with the EGR Vacuum Regulator. This is a solenoid controlled vacuum valve. It should have a connector from the cable harness plugged into it and two vacuum lines on it. One vacuum line from the vacuum tree and one to the EGR valve.
The EGR Vacuum Regulator is on the back side of the right strut tower.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #35
Quote from: jpc647;351505
I didn't floor the car though, went down between half and 3/4.
If you are talking about the "goose" test, you momentarly floor it when you get the single pulse. It is testing if the TPS voltage can get up to WOT level.
Not all versions of the EEC have this test.
Other than that you should not have your foot on the gas pedal while KOER is running.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #36
Your 63 code is an intermittent TPS voltage too low.
This proceedure is called the wiggle test in the shop manual. It lets you wiggle cables and tap on stuff etc. to see if you can duplicate the problem.
If you have a helper, have them sit in the car and watch to see if you can make the check engine light flash. If not hook a test light or an buttstuffog meter between the self test connector pin 4 and positive battery post. This will in effect put the check engine light under the hood where you can watch it.

Run KOEO and clear the memory codes.
Run KOER. Wait for two minutes after it finishes outputing codes. It is now in "Continuous Monitor Mode"
Wiggle and tap stuff and see if you can make the check engine light flash. If you can, run KOEO and see if you stored a 63 memory code.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #37
Quote from: Haystack;351540
salt and pepper connections
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=85
What all your sensors look like, and what they do.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=10
Actuators
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=11
A simplified version of what the computer is doing, and what sensors it is using.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=64

There used to be a map of what voltages should be to test them. I cannot find it.

I am sure I have linked you to many, if not all of these in the past. Then you started a new thread saying it was a new issue.

yes you have linked some of these. I did the 10 pin connector thing, I spread all the pins out, etc. I read through the sensors and the actuators page before, just for reference. There isn't any troubleshooting in them though.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #38
Quote from: softtouch;351543
If you are talking about the "goose" test, you momentarly floor it when you get the single pulse. It is testing if the TPS voltage can get up to WOT level.
Not all versions of the EEC have this test.
Other than that you should not have your foot on the gas pedal while KOER is running.

Yes, that must be what I was referring to. I printed off the instructions for this test off the fordfuelinjection.com website and did it when I went home. It states sometimes different models won't have certain tests, but I went through all the ones it listed anyway, just to see.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #39
Quote from: softtouch;351544
Your 63 code is an intermittent TPS voltage too low.
This proceedure is called the wiggle test in the shop manual. It lets you wiggle cables and tap on stuff etc. to see if you can duplicate the problem.
If you have a helper, have them sit in the car and watch to see if you can make the check engine light flash. If not hook a test light or an buttstuffog meter between the self test connector pin 4 and positive battery post. This will in effect put the check engine light under the hood where you can watch it.

Run KOEO and clear the memory codes.
Run KOER. Wait for two minutes after it finishes outputing codes. It is now in "Continuous Monitor Mode"
Wiggle and tap stuff and see if you can make the check engine light flash. If you can, run KOEO and see if you stored a 63 memory code.

Alright. I will have to do this tomorrow. It's another day filled with snow, so working on the car today is pretty much out of the question. I have a garage, somewhere in the backyard, under about 4 feet of snow.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #40
There is tons of trouble shooting in those links. Resistance and voltage is a function of electricity and your cars ECU. It lists the minimun voltage acceptable for some things, and the maximum resistance of others. It even shows you how to check grounds between your battery cable and the computer pins.

If you don't think thats important, I don't wonder why your having problems.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #41
Quote from: Haystack;351605
There is tons of trouble shooting in those links. Resistance and voltage is a function of electricity and your cars ECU. It lists the minimun voltage acceptable for some things, and the maximum resistance of others. It even shows you how to check grounds between your battery cable and the computer pins.

If you don't think thats important, I don't wonder why your having problems.

I'm sorry. You are correct. I normally check the forum at work, and the sub links in the links you posted(like the EGR valve has it's own link to a separate page) do not show up as links. It's just the way the network configures things. Kind of glad you said something, because it m,made me look at it again because I couldn't for the life of me understand what you were referring to.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #42
Well the problem is getting worse, way worse. Like every time I go up a relatively steep hill I have problems. I ran KOEO codes tonight, got a code 34 as an "active one". So the EVP is above it's limit. What could cause the whole EGR system to be all screwed up!?

In the continuous memory (after the 1 blick of the check engine light) I got a 63 and a 33.
Now I have swapped EGR valves(with the EVP's) a couple of times now. I have three. I also swapped out the lines which run from the regulator to the egr valve and to the back of the plenum. Mine has a pin hole in it that I found. The "new" one clearly had broken before, and it looks like someone used heat shrink tubing to fix it.

I'm going to swap out the regulator and reservoir tonight, see if it makes and difference. Other than this, I'm not sure what to do. I can hear a vacuum leak in the dash when the car is under load, mostly through 1st and second. When it shifts to 3rd, it goes away until a bout 40ish when it is about to shift into overdrive. Not sure if that means anything.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #43
Well I tested out the regulator, it appears fine. The resitance checks out okay and the "mechanical test" vacuum from top slot was not there. So I think that should mean thats okay. I swapped out the little vacuum resovior, and then unplugged the EGR valve. I capped the vacuum line and unplugged the EGR valve. Not sure if thats how to "eliminate" the EGR valve or not. Please chime in if not.

In all seriousness I'm so fed up with this ed car, should I break down again tomorrow, I'm going to light the car on fire to stay warm while I wait for the tow truck. I don't know what else to do. I'm crazy, its 12 degrees outside and i'm fighting with a 24 year old car to make it to work another day. I need my head examined.//end rant.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #44
Time for a 4 barrel.
--SteveN 👍
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L