Got some more engine codes today August 08, 2010, 07:51:49 PM Well I've been getting a clicking noise from possibly and injector, so I decided to run codes. I got:67: Which I know has to do with a nuetral safety switch, I always have this, and we can't seem to figure it out. So I'm not worried, I guess.Saved Codes:51:ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.63:TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts.87:Fuel pump primary circuit failure. When the FP relay was activated by the EEC, voltage was not detected on the control circuit. Or : Voltage was not detected on Fuel Pump Monitor while the engine was running.33:EGR valve opening not detected.29:Insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor. Now, codes 33 and 29 have showed up before. I think 29 is because the transmission and motor were swapped into a car with a 3.08 rear end, but the speedometer gear was not changed so my mph might be a little off. The EGR valve seems to be okay, I swapped in a known good one I got from Vinnie, and it's still there, not sure what that means.As far as the TPS is concerned, could this have anything to do with my rolling idle? What causes this problem?Anyone got any suggestions for the fuel pump one? Does this mean it's not putting out the needed pressure? I'm thinking maybe this is related to the clicking in my injectors? Where the hell is the ECT? Is this the temperature sender for the gauge inside the car? Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #1 – August 08, 2010, 09:45:00 PM kind of funny, could explain alot of the problems you have had in the past.Why didn't you pull codes before? TPS is a 10 minute thing. The sensor on top of the throttle body.http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/ will tell you all you need to know. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #2 – August 08, 2010, 10:10:43 PM I did pull codes before! lol I posted results, I've not gotten the tps one before. Only the EGR, the nuetral safety switch, and the vss one. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #3 – August 09, 2010, 12:36:55 PM Anyone got and suggestions about the other codes, the fuel pump related one, and the ETC? Does the tps one mean it is failing? Someone must know, lol. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #4 – August 09, 2010, 11:58:39 PM http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28 ecthttp://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=30 tpshttp://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=33 VSShttp://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35 evp, basically an EGR sensor.The fuel pump one says that your fuel pump did not turn on.Basically, your TPS voltage is too low, your ECT is too high. Both of these will cause idle/drivability issues. Your VSS is either not hooked up or is not reading correctly, and your fuel pump relay either isn't working or your car cannot tell that it is on, and your EGR is not working.All of that information is in these links, from the site I linked you to earlier.Sorry for the not pulling codes comment, I was thinking you were someone else.How to set your timinghttp://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=71Base idle reset, what you will need to do after your TPS sensor swaphttp://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,1031.0.htmlAlso, make sure there are no dead spots in the TPS using a volt meter from idle to WOT. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #5 – August 10, 2010, 12:02:41 AM And an article on cleaning fuel injectors. Hope that all helped.http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82 Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #6 – August 10, 2010, 12:11:30 AM Does the ECT read high or low when the engine's cold? Maybe he pulled them with the coolant cool?I'd look at 63 and 29 first - smog related codes mean nothing to me as I had them for years and they worked fine. 87 can mean many things - unplug the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator and check at the valve - you should be in the range of 36-40psi to start. I'm on the low end of 36psi with new parts. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #7 – August 10, 2010, 08:48:31 PM With the engine at operating temp, the first code give should be repaired first, then retest for codes again... A TPS code should always be repaired but still check the first one......I need to do some digging but I didn't think the fuel pump was monitored on a speed densety computer system...The speed sensor doesn't care what gear is in the transmission, all the computer knows is whether there is a signal or not... Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #8 – August 18, 2010, 10:50:50 AM The EGR code, what could cause this? The EGR valve on there was one I bought from Vinnie, I swapped in my Old EGR just to test, I could swear the clicking went away for a little while and then returned. I looked on Fordfuelinjection.com, and found voltages and such for the EGR valve, but is there another way to determine is something is wrong? Could the diaphram inside it be leaking or something? I'm thinking maybe I have two bad parts here...Could anything else cause this? I checked the line running to the EGR vacuum resovior on the passenger side strut tower, its connected, I don't see any breaks in it. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #9 – August 18, 2010, 09:21:57 PM How about you remove it and not worry about it? I have had no problems with emissions or gas. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #10 – August 18, 2010, 11:36:32 PM Quote from: Haystack;332531How about you remove it and not worry about it? I have had no problems with emissions or gas.Eh, I noticed a fairly large difference in cruise when I had mine capped off but no detectable difference in operating temperature since my cooling system is fine. I'd leave egr in a street car although I have never seen any improvement with egr with a properly operating motor (not worn out).Put a vacuum pump on the egr valve, pump it up, and see if it holds. If it doesn't hold, it's bad and should be replaced. You can put a vacuum gauge on the egr's vacuum line and see if it ever pulls vacuum while driving. I don't remember how else to check the things. My stock intake that was on the car years ago was all carboned up and couldn't even flow through the egr port so disconnecting it made no difference. If the egr valve itself is still attached and leaking, disconnecting the hose won't help the potential vacuum leak it can be creating. Quote Selected
Got some more engine codes today Reply #11 – August 19, 2010, 08:56:33 AM Is there anything else that could cause the ERG valve not to open? I cleaned the TB area out a couple of months ago, when I first got this code. I would bet money the EGR valve is fine, I bought it from Vinnie, he's never screwed anyone that I know of. I checked the vacuum lines, they seem okay. One did have a crack in it, and I fixed it. This was a while ago. I cut the line, found a rubber tube and overlapped it, because the vacuum line has a special head on it that I couldn't get.Any other suggestions on the EGR problem? It seems when the car is cold, the Ticking noise isn't there. I have a small exhaust leak in the back of the ler where the hanger broke, and that's all I hear. After about 5 minutes of driving, when the temp gauge is about to the "N" on "norm" It seems to come back. Now something is causing the EGR valve to do this, I took a known good one from Vinnie off, put my old original one on, and this is what it does now. Could the reservoir thing on the passenger strut tower be bad? Anyone know what this could be? I can't seem to find a list of possible causes for this error code. I don't have the emissions book. can't find one either. Quote Selected
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