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Topic: 84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap. (Read 11556 times) previous topic - next topic

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #15 –
Anyone notice the 3G upgrade?  Gonna be some bumps in the trunk.  2 12's and an 800 watt Fosgate amp.  I found some frayed wires in the harness that's why I pulled a lot of the looming off.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #16 –
Here's the deal. I wanted the tach to work in the stock cluster with this V8 conversion. From what I read it needs to be researched more. 

I had this Autometer pro sport comp huge tach deal that I was not going to put in the interior and screw up the factory look.  Here's my modification.  I will have to remove some of the plastic behind the cluster so the circuit board with go back in far enough.

PICs!  PS:  I used only the parts from the two tachs to make this.  That's the best way!
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #17 –
That last picture I cut out the circuits for the fasten seat belt light. and the circuit that had the 5 nuts on the studs that the org. tach mounted to.  I'm assuming that was a signal or a ground.  I'm guessing ground so I'm not worried about removing that because I am grounding the circuit board via relay to key on/start  The rest are still there.  I was able to remove all that was in the center without affecting those circuits.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #18 –
The orange needle will be painted white before I put it together.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #19 –
Weatherstrip repair trial number 1.

Cut everything flush to the bottom of the weatherstripping

Cleaned surface with acetone.  Prepped and taped. 

Applied ultra black RTV to crack & will allow to dry.

Then I'm gonna cut it with a super sharp razor and peel the tape back and see if it fixes the leakage into the doors.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #20 –
ZOMG! update:  Just about got it ready to fire up.  Oil change, VSS wiring, Timing, clutch adjustment, misc loose bolts, need to buy a new belt, fluids, and then whatever bugs it may throw at me.  Not to mention a thousand panels inside that need put back on and there ain't no gas in it.  :mullet:  Then maybe a :burnout: video.  Crossing my fingers on this one.  So far none of my wiring has let the magic smoke out.  Yet...

Next week paint job... as money permits.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #21 –
NICE !!! I'm glad to see that SOMEONE is getting some work done. I haven't done anything at all lately except the console lid,and that wasn't a big deal. Keep us posted.Great work so far. I love the tach idea. Good thinking.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #22 –
Good luck. After i did my swap I had lots of issues. Turned out I had a bad PCM. Oh well.
1988 Thunderbird Sport. Work in Progress
5.8L swap w/fitech efi, 4R70W swap w/quick 4 controller, 2003 GT rear diff, 5 Lug swap

Bought this car back as an old project car.

:burnout:

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #23 –
I will be watching this post with antition...
 

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #24 –
It did run... but it sounded like a diesel.  I just pulled the intake and I'm getting ready to pull the lifters and pushrods to clean/soak them and then re-oil them.  Hopefully when I put it back together it'll not make noise.  Plenty of work left... LOTS of bugs.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #25 –
What makes you think it was the lifters/pushrods?  It is my understanding that they should pump up with oil from priming the engine (hook a drill to the oil pump shaft).  Or you could disconnect the coil, floor the throttle and crank it for quite a while.  If you didn't prime, the lifters should eventually pump back up from running.

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #26 –
My experiance has been, that the lifters will pump up instantly. Your pushrod are probably wrong. From what I have seen, I'll bet 95% of people do not set them up right.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #27 –
The noise was intermittent. When started it made the noise, then it didn't, then it did and won't stop making the noise. Motor ran fine in the yellow cat when pulled.  I did change the dizzy out but it was stabbed properly.  I did prime the motor by hooking the drill up to the oil pump shaft with my homemade adapter and turning it counterclockwise.

I made a thread about this over at the horse and pony show website: (wrong choice I know)
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1248841




All I wanted to know was if the lifters and dog bone were supposed to travel this far.  I didn't ask the right questions or something, maybe I should have asked if I could take off the heads and reuse the gaskets and the bolts.  Then I'd get a bunch of ppl there to help.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #28 –
Clarifying the noise you are hearing would be helpful:  It's a clatter from the valve train?  Or aren't you sure?

If it's valve train noise, here are some things to try.  If it's something else, more information is needed.

Clatter from the valve train can be tracked down without pulling the heads.  But the valve covers will have to come off.  You need to check the clearance on each rocker.  Check each one individually with the lifter on the cam base circle (not on the lobe).  If there something wrong you'll know it because there will be excessive clearance.  It's possible you may have a loose rocker, a bent push rod, collapsed lifter, broken valve spring, broken rocker stud/bolt or even a broken lifter roller (highly unlikely). 

The pics only tell me that it appears you have the dog bones and spyder installed correctly.

If you have a collapsed lifter, the heads don't need to be pulled to replace it, you can get them all out with the heads on (though some of them can take some tinkering).

BTW, getting a response on the other site in a matter of hours may not be a realistic expectation...

84 Turbocoupe to 302 EFI & T5 Swap.

Reply #29 –
From my attempts at determining the noise I'd say it's valve train noise. It made the noise on startup, then I let it warm up and it went away, then it came back and never left.  I could not determine the side that the noise was coming from but it sounded very loud like a rod knock that was consistent with engine RPM.
84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip,  BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow lers :evilgrin:
:pics-stfu:

 Project Thread with pics