Skip to main content
Topic: New Clicking Sound from Engine Update! (Read 5494 times) previous topic - next topic

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #15
Quote from: jpc647;330640
Thats a good idea, but it is definitely coming from the engine. It sounds like a ping/rapping noise. I was fearing that some part of the gasket got lodged in the motor during the swap, but where it doesn't happen in park or neutral, and only when in drive,  and accelerating, I'm ruling that out. It has to be something timing/ignition related, I would think.

Is is possibly my timing is right at 10* but the cylinders aren't firing right? What I mean is, by this is before I did the intake the TIF was positioned midway between the upper radiator hose and the alt. bracket, and the car ran fine. After removing the dist. the TIF is right up against the thermostat housing, the car runs okay, but it makes this noise under load. It could be ping, a bad ping... Would it be in my best interest to remove the dist. move it one tooth the other way and them position the TIF back to where is was before the intake swap and try to see if it runs better. Does this make sense? I don't want to waste the time doing all this if you guys don't think it'll work. Just a though. Other than this, I am out of idea.

Is there a knock sensor on these motors(1987 5.0). Where is it, how do I test it?


The EEC needs the distributor to be in the correct spot as it uses the veins in the distributor to fire the injectors correctly. I'd get the engine back to TDC and reset the distributor.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #16
Quote from: Scott D;330651
Does the pinging/rapping noise go away after the car's warmed up? Does the sound start after it's had a chance to warm up?


The sound starts immediately if there is a load(even small) on the engine. It only does it in drive or reverse(i think). It wont make the sound in park or in nuetral.

The distributor was reset, we found TDC on the number 1 cylinder, and went from there. It appears to be a the #5 cylinder making noise(if its a cylinder), the noise is like a metallic click and it's hard to locate it, it seems to reverbeate through the engine. I checked the plug, it seems okay.

On the attached picture, this is the motor shortly after it was put in the car and you can see where the distributorand TFI are located. This was before the intake gaskets were done and there was no noise. The yellow line represents roughly where the TFI sits now, its as close to the thermostat housing as possible, its touching it. Now if I move the distributor counter clockwise to move towards where it used to be the engine runs real rough.

I just feel the problem has to be related to something that was disturbed when the upper and lower intakes were taken off because it didn't make the noise before.


New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #17
what kind of sound does a bad injector, or failing injector make?

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #18
If you ran codes you could do an engine balance test which would tell you.

If your distributor is not pointed the same way, it is not in right. If your timing is off alittle bit the car will still be fine power wise, but may ping sometimes under load, which would make alot of sense.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #19
The distributor was taken out, re make it so the distributor was right back where it was,  we advance/ retard it off of 10* just to see if the clicked noise goes away but it doesn't no matter how far we go. We set it back to ten, so maybe it's not an electrical problem. It almost seems to be coming from a injector.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #20
One more thing to look at
When it is dark out tonight look around under the hood at all your plug wires/ boots while the car is running and  make sure none of them are arcing to ground .
 That will also make a clicking sound
Fox-less at the moment

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #21
Quote from: hypostang;330991
One more thing to look at
When it is dark out tonight look around under the hood at all your plug wires/ boots while the car is running and  make sure none of them are arcing to ground .
 That will also make a clicking sound


This is a good idea. Try pulling your spark plug wires off one by one and see if it changes the way the car runs.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #22
put it under load when you do that too, b/c when you put it under load and the engine tweaks to the side a little b/c of the mounts, it might be when it comes in contact and thats why you only hear it then.
--SteveN 👍
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #23
It doesn't seem to change anything. The clicking is still happening even when plug wires are pulled on and off. I tried spraying the wires with water looking for archs too, nothing.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #24
Quote from: jpc647;330301
I can't seem to pinpoint it, as I need two people, one in the car with it running with it in D, one foot on the brake one on the gas a little.
Just slam down the e-brake, chock the wheels, and pull the throttle cable yourself (not hard though!!!) while your checking it out:hick:

No seriously, I've done it many times. Might help you figure it out.
--SteveN 👍
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #25
Quote from: sarjxxx;332787
Just slam down the e-brake, chock the wheels, and pull the throttle cable yourself (not hard though!!!) while your checking it out:hick:

No seriously, I've done it many times. Might help you figure it out.


No e brake, the line broke a long time ago. Actually the equilizer broke right through a rotted piece of the floor, lol.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #26
ohhhh...

plan b.

Just chock the wheels, get inside the car, and see if you can give it enough throttle to hear the sound without jumping the chocks. if so, your good.
I know mine won't jump one of those parking curb thingys (look in my sig) from a standstill, maybe go to a parking lot a try it.
--SteveN 👍
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #27
spray water- thats what i would have done

spray carb cleaner along intake mating areas, listen for rpm change

pinpoint noise with wood dowel from engine parts to your ear- your saying its cyl 5 which is up front near the AC unt.
in another statement you siad the noise is in the rear near the pcv.


after hot at night, shut off car and look for a glowing precat on the exhaust.  if so, gut them both.
also, feel around for exhaust leaks.

to hear better, put your fan in a bind so it doesnt turn for a small amount of time so you can pinpoint an exhaust leak better. feel around where the headers connect. do this starting out with a cold motor.
as stated before , chock your wheels with blocks real good knowing your ebrake is broke so stay to the sides offering great respect to the potential sacraficial toes and feet.

to check timing chain slack, bump motor to a perfect 0deg TDC
remove dist cap and eyeball the orientation of the rotor button.  it should be dead on top of spark plug / cyl number 1.  if it isnt,, fix that.  if it is,, keep reading.
place breaker bar on crank pully bolt. 
rotate engine the opposite direction which should be easy for a moment until you feel it get hard.
when it gets to a stop point, this is when all slack is out of the timing chain and now your cam is in the rotation game.
when you feel this happen then stop.
read where the pointer is pointing to what degree marking on your harmonic.
report back the total degrees.

My dist points kinda towards the front driver corner close to what you have now.  if your slack is excessive, you could be set wrong but looking correct.

dont forget to eyeball that rotor button pointer real good when you first take it off, that will tell a lot.

back to the original gut feeling you had its intake related.......
-remove pass side injector plugs one at a time
-if engine rpm changes the same on each plug removed, then good luck getting to the rest on the pass side. if no / little rpm change on any one injector plug removed then you just found your problem.

-since you did mess with the intake and all the vac lines, check the electrical conn / vac lines in the rear center.
-there may be an important wire that backed out of its connector back at the center of the intake.
-other than the above, i cant think of anything else you could have done to inject the noise by way of a mistake.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #28
I was driving the car back from springfield today, and I had to get into it a little bit to get around a truck carrying a shed that was all over the road. It appears that at WOT the noise goes away, now I had the radio on, and I wasn't really paying attention but it seems that was the case. I will recheck after work today, on the highway where it is safe. I thought this might open up a couple of possibilities to what it could be.. And as soon as it stops raining, I'll get back out there and play with the car again.

New Clicking Sound from Engine Update!

Reply #29
When I did my timing chain, I am fairly sure I put it back in a tooth or two off. Looking at my dizzy, it looks the same as yours, and I had a timing issue. I ended up unbolting the brace behind the A/C pump and turning the dist as far as I could. That solved my overheating and pinging.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com