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temp running 205

Lately my car has been running warm, 205F. I have a 180f thermostat. Runs alot hotter when ac is on. Not sure what the issue is. Last year only ran about 195f all summer (without ac running). I have not made any changes.

Here are the specs: 302 with stock bore and pistons, stock head that have the ports cleaned up, small cam (less than .500 lift), explorer intake, 65mm throttle body & egr spacer, 24lb injectors, timing set at 10, Walbro 255 fuel pump, fuel pressure set at 38, brass 2 core oem radiator, taurus 2 speed electric fan running high speed, 5 speed, 3.55 gears.

I know there are other cars on here that have about the same combo or more. What do your cars run at?
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02 Explorer XLT 4.0L
04 F150 FX4 Supercrew 5.4L
02 Saturn SL1 1.9L
09 Vstar 950 Tourer

temp running 205

Reply #1
AC's gonna make the engine work harder, so the temp is going to go up a few degrees.  I wouldn't sweat it, dude.
If worms had daggers, birds wouldn't f**k with 'em

temp running 205

Reply #2
Is it 205* with the AC on and 95* temps outside? If so that sounds about right.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

 

temp running 205

Reply #3
the ac condeser core is in front of the rad, so it warms the air on the way to the rad

with a good cooling system 205* is not an issue

water boils at 212*

and for every LB of presser the rad cap holds (yours should be a 16 lb cap) will allow you 3* over boiling point..
so the math will go like this.....

water boil point + cap pressure= over heat temp
212* + 48* = 260*

rad caps do go weak over time, and it should be checked or replaced appox every other year
1985 TC (yet another one) Fully loaded
has 225k mile  still with the factory head gasket






84  Turbo ranger  Daily driver  ($800.00 Ebay deal)
          volvo FMIC and more getto rigging than the law should allow

temp running 205

Reply #4
Quote from: BogusSVO;326361

water boils at 212*

and for every LB of presser the rad cap holds (yours should be a 16 lb cap) will allow you 3* over boiling point..
so the math will go like this.....

water boil point + cap pressure= over heat temp
212* + 48* = 260*

rad caps do go weak over time, and it should be checked or replaced appox every other year


Just goes to show, you learn something new every day. Thanks, man
If worms had daggers, birds wouldn't f**k with 'em

temp running 205

Reply #5
A 50-50 mixture of coolant & water raises the boiling point even higher...

temp running 205

Reply #6
if you want a little more cooling and look factory stock
visteon makes a 2 row radiator. put one in mine just for
extra cooling. now if  i would drive it once in a while.

temp running 205

Reply #7
Quote
AC's gonna make the engine work harder, so the temp is going to go up a few degrees. I wouldn't sweat it, dude.

I understand but hitting 230 last summer with ac on is not good. I turn the ac off and temp came back down.

Quote
Is it 205* with the AC on and 95* temps outside? If so that sounds about right.

205 without ac on and outside temp in the 90s.

Quote
and for every LB of presser the rad cap holds (yours should be a 16 lb cap) will allow you 3* over boiling point..
so the math will go like this.....

rad caps do go weak over time, and it should be checked or replaced appox every other year

Mine is a 16lbs cap but has been on for more than 2 years

Quote
A 50-50 mixture of coolant & water raises the boiling point even higher...

I have mine mixed at 50-50.

Quote
if you want a little more cooling and look factory stock
visteon makes a 2 row radiator. put one in mine just for
extra cooling. now if i would drive it once in a while.

I have a 2 row radiator that I purchased from Autozone between 8-10 years ago. I think it is time to replaced it. It is beginning to show signs of weepy leaks around a couple tubes.

I have an explorer radiator sitting in there but its too high to close the hose to go for a drive. Sitting in the driveway with ac on running at 1200rpm, temp keeps climbing. I know its not the same as driving down the road, but this makes me think the raditor is not the problem.

I think I'll buy new hoses (since mine are original style and I have never had to replace them), radiator cap, and replace the thermostat. If this doesn't cure it, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a new radiator. I have found a new aluminum 3 row on ebay for $150 before shipping. I believe this is from radiators4less.
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02 Explorer XLT 4.0L
04 F150 FX4 Supercrew 5.4L
02 Saturn SL1 1.9L
09 Vstar 950 Tourer

temp running 205

Reply #8
you may want to find out if your auto zone rad is still under warrenty, most come with a lifetime.....
1985 TC (yet another one) Fully loaded
has 225k mile  still with the factory head gasket






84  Turbo ranger  Daily driver  ($800.00 Ebay deal)
          volvo FMIC and more getto rigging than the law should allow

temp running 205

Reply #9
your aware its been very hot/humid out here lately, your temps dont seem very odd to me.
have you checked to see if the fins on the condensor/radiator arent getting dirty and clogged up?
"Beating the hell out of other peoples cars since 1999"
1983 Ford Thunderbird Heritage
1984 Ford Mustang GT Turbo Convertible
2015 Ford Focus SE 1.0 EcoBoost

temp running 205

Reply #10
Since moving down South, my temps have been a few degrees warmer...it's rediculously humid here and a lot of that has been making it's way up north recently.  My iron-headed 351w will run just under 210* in 100* with 115*+ heat indices....and that's in traffic.  I have a 180* T-stat, new everything and a 3-row radiator...and my A/C is non-functional.  I had an electric fan pulling 3300cfm through the radiator continuously and it would just barely hold 195* @ idle and temps would continue to slowly climb with the slightest of loads on the engine...I had to re-install my clutch driven fan and it's been no problem since.

Replacing the factory clutch fan with an e-fan is a great idea for gaining power and economy, but the factory fan moves a TON of air through the radiator.  The same e-fan kept my old 5.0 @ 215* on the hottest of days with a stock radiator and 195* t-stat...but it couldn't keep up with my 351w.

I wouldn't be real concerned with running 205*...over 215* and climbing would be a concern.

Good luck

-Don
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads