Sputtering while driving *update*

Topic: Sputtering while driving *update* (Read 4138 times) previous topic - next topic

Sputtering while driving update

June 05, 2010, 01:11:55 PM

Yup. Finally got her on the road. I love it. She runs good, but it has an issue. While driving, the car rides smooth, but occasionally the car sputters while accelerating, often times up a hill. It never stalls, after a few seconds of it, it'll go back to normal. Mashing the throttle doesn't help it along much

So what do you guys think? TPS? Fuel Filter?

Also, it seems a little weaker than I was expecting. Has some power, but not what I was expecting.

This is the 5.0 btw. I gave it a tune up like, 5 miles ago, as well as an oil change, air filter, and a complete brake system replacement

Oh yeah, one more thing. The gas pedal is a little stiff. I'm attributing this to the car's age, but just letting you guy know. It's not a problem at all, I was just used to my mom's 01 Windstar...

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #1 – June 05, 2010, 03:17:38 PM

Did you replace wires? Sounds like a timing issue. I would check codes first, and if you did plugs/wires I would make sure they are all routed correctly.

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Reply #2 – June 05, 2010, 05:16:43 PM

Spark plug wires? Yeah, along with the distributor cap and plugs of course. One wire, one plug at a time. Like I said, this only happens occasionally and corrects itself in a few seconds. What exactly do you mean by routing? I'm no expert, just a 17 year old kid with his first car...

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Reply #3 – June 06, 2010, 12:55:52 AM

if it were TPS i think it would do it more often.... But idk.

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Reply #4 – June 06, 2010, 12:58:17 AM

By routing he means are they running from the correct pin on the distributor to the correct spark plug. If you went one wire at a time, you most likely did not screw that up. And that sort of problem shoudn't be as intermittent as you're saying. But timing is entirely possible as a problem, you should check it, too make sure you didn't accidentally bump it out of place when you were doing the wires/cap.

Just for s+g's, check your fluid level in your transmission too. Does it feel like it happens on downshifts?

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Reply #5 – June 06, 2010, 01:38:18 AM

Make sure you have good spark at all of the plugs and there all the way seated, as well as all the parts in the distributor. What did you gap the plugs at, and did it do it before the tune up?

I would also check to make sure your timing is still at or near base, and double check all your wires are in the right place, cause these cars will still run with one or two wires off or in the wrong place.

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Reply #6 – June 06, 2010, 08:15:58 AM

Hmm, now that you mention it, I didn't check the gaping. I figured Advanced Auto would have given me the correct ones for my car. I'll check that Monday. What should they be set at? So these cars will still run with a wire in the wrong place? That's pretty interesting. I'll double check all my connections, make sure they're tight. I'll check codes while I'm there.

It could be the transmission, but I'm praying it isn't that. I'll check the fluid level Monday. As far as I know, it is the factory original AOD with 145300 on it.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll report back Monday with my findings.

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Reply #7 – June 06, 2010, 12:04:18 PM

You should ALWAYS check and set the gap on new plugs .
I worked for a Federated parts supplier and you would not believe how some parts are treated in a warehouse setting :hick:

And your Gap should be .050 :D

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Reply #8 – June 06, 2010, 12:15:37 PM

Thanks

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Reply #9 – June 06, 2010, 10:31:39 PM

Threadjacking:

I've heard not to gap plugs like Bosch Platinum +2's and +3's. Is this true?

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Reply #10 – June 06, 2010, 10:36:38 PM

Quote from: sarjxxx;324537

Threadjacking:

I've heard not to gap plugs like Bosch Platinum +2's and +3's. Is this true?

I have heard that as well , but I have never used them, but if they have some sort of packaging that protects the end of the plug from warehouse mishaps or poor handling I guess that would be different :D

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Reply #11 – June 06, 2010, 10:40:09 PM

Cardboard cylinders that "protect" the ends slide up and around each one, then they're of course in individual boxes too.
I have all 6 in mine right now. I examined all of them and they appeared to all be the same gap...
:end of threadjacking

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Reply #12 – June 07, 2010, 05:28:16 PM

Ok, well, I checked the wires, one wire in the center of the distributor cap was a little loose, but that didn't fix it. The transmission fluid looks to be at the correct level, but the fluid isn't red. It looks kinda like brand new motor oil, kinda orangy-gold.

Also, I talked to a friend today, he said it could be the egr, does that make sense? I'm gonna pull codes tomorrow for sure. I'll check the plugs tomorrow too. In the mean time...uhhh...what -was- this? It's on the passenger side, where did it go to? Should I cap it?

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Reply #13 – June 07, 2010, 05:56:58 PM

Oh, one more thing, you know that kinda...blade inside the air cleaner assembly? Right where the metal meets the plastic tube? Is that supposed to move? It's kinda stiff. If I push it closed with my hand, it likes to stick and stay closed...

I dunno, I really want her to drive better. It's a little unnerving worrying about the next hill coming up...I've been giving her extra throttle before I get to the hill and keeping my foot steady up it.

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Reply #14 – June 07, 2010, 06:02:20 PM

That broken piece is part of the A.I.R. (smog) system and yes you should block it off it it looks like the hose that is supposed to go there is beside it . It actually will create an exhaust leak if left open.
And another thing I noticed the top port on your PCV valve should be capped off :D