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Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #15
Quote from: thunderjet302;311029
What???

I don't think that's normal as mine does not do that.

Kinda hard to explain it really -- only does it with the heat on HI.
An example -- depending on a few factors (temp., running time, etc.) my gauge may fluctuate between 5 and 6 bars on the digi dash.  Turning the heat to HI will make it read a constant 6.....Turning it off will cause it to fluctuate again.

When I had the chime issue, it would sometimes alleviate it.
If the gauge is @ a steady 5 bars now it won't push it to 6......

I have more grounds in this car than I know what to do with as well.....They're all in good condition as well.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #16
Quote from: V8Demon;311054
Kinda hard to explain it really -- only does it with the heat on HI.
An example -- depending on a few factors (temp., running time, etc.) my gauge may fluctuate between 5 and 6 bars on the digi dash.  Turning the heat to HI will make it read a constant 6.....Turning it off will cause it to fluctuate again.

When I had the chime issue, it would sometimes alleviate it.
If the gauge is @ a steady 5 bars now it won't push it to 6......

I have more grounds in this car than I know what to do with as well.....They're all in good condition as well.


Hmm perhaps there is a problem with the gauge cluster in your car. Have you tried to swap in another cluster just for fun?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #17
The interior lights pulsating stopped after I replaced one vacuum line. I'm guessing it was because I bumped the wiring for the alternator so I'll have to check all of that. I fixed one vacuum line that was coming off of the upper intake manifold and going to some kind of canister-like sensor that has a connector with two wires under the air box on the passenger side. What is that? It didn't have vacuum for a while and the car ran fine so I'm just curious as to what that is exactly. I got that vacuum line replaced and I have the one below temporarily fixed with some 3/16 fuel line (which is too big). Does anyone know what size ID vacuum line I need in the spot below?

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #18
Quote from: thunderjet302;311169
Hmm perhaps there is a problem with the gauge cluster in your car. Have you tried to swap in another cluster just for fun?



Cluster's been checked over 6 ways from Sunday.  Carm explained a feasible reason as to why it most likely happens a while back.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #19
Quote from: V8Demon;311314
Cluster's been checked over 6 ways from Sunday.  Carm explained a feasible reason as to why it most likely happens a while back.


I'm pretty sure Carm knows more than I could ever hope to know about electronics so if he says it's ok then it has to be:D
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #20
Quote from: FloridaCougar;311312
The interior lights pulsating stopped after I replaced one vacuum line. I'm guessing it was because I bumped the wiring for the alternator so I'll have to check all of that. I fixed one vacuum line that was coming off of the upper intake manifold and going to some kind of canister-like sensor that has a connector with two wires under the air box on the passenger side. What is that? It didn't have vacuum for a while and the car ran fine so I'm just curious as to what that is exactly. I got that vacuum line replaced and I have the one below temporarily fixed with some 3/16 fuel line (which is too big). Does anyone know what size ID vacuum line I need in the spot below?


I know it's for the emissions control system. I pulled that stuff off of my car about 3 years ago (except the EGR and the canister purge for the gas vapors) so I'm going by memory but I think it's for the thermactor. Do you have a picture of what the lines connect to under the air box?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #21
The canister under the air box is just that.  It's your charcoal canister that connects to the canister purge solenoid.  When the CP solenoid opens it removes the vapors that are stored in the charcoal canister (which are from the gas tank) and these vapors are sucked into the intake manifold.

It will open during warm cruise and deceleration. 
Should look like this:




As far as your vacuum lines, I can't remember the exact size, but I DO know what works in a pinch.......fishtank airline tubing.  It actually fits over the stock smaller lines and you can use it to connect 2 broken ends.  I've used it in the past to troubleshoot vacuum issues concerning fluids in vacuum systems as well.....The stuff runs about $2 for an 8 foot length.  The line that is circled and to the left in the picture you posted....does it run to the frame rail and go through it?
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #22
Quote from: V8Demon;311351
The canister under the air box is just that.  It's your charcoal canister that connects to the canister purge solenoid.  When the CP solenoid opens it removes the vapors that are stored in the charcoal canister (which are from the gas tank) and these vapors are sucked into the intake manifold.

It will open during warm cruise and deceleration. 
Should look like this


I just went and checked, I didn't notice it when I replaced the vacuum line, but the other side of the solenoid where the other line connects is broke off. Would it be alright to just cap this off or should I replace the solenoid?

Quote from: V8Demon;311351
The line that is circled and to the left in the picture you posted....does it run to the frame rail and go through it?


It runs along the firewall and goes to either the upper intake or something under it. I can't really tell because of the lack of room between the firewall and the intake manifold.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #23
I meant the picture's left; not the car's left.  Just want to make sure we're talking about the same line. 

As far as the solenoid -- Since it's open I would imagine it's throwing a code.  The car will run perfectly fine with it.  I'd replace it. 

Which side is busted?  From the canister or to the manifold?
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #24
Quote from: V8Demon;311382
I meant the picture's left; not the car's left.  Just want to make sure we're talking about the same line. 

As far as the solenoid -- Since it's open I would imagine it's throwing a code.  The car will run perfectly fine with it.  I'd replace it. 

Which side is busted?  From the canister or to the manifold?


I'll check that vacuum line in a few minutes. The side going from the purge solenoid to the canister is busted.

EDIT: Since it's about 35 outside I'll check the line tomorrow.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #25
Few questions here.
First, the oil pressure issue doesn't seem to be as fixed as I previously thought. I hopped in today and the oil pressure is screwing with me. First start yeilded no pressure showing on the gauge, it started working a few seconds after the second start and then quit working again! I hit the cluster a few times and maybe that's been the problem the whole time. The lights for the cluster haven't hardly ever worked, the mileage doesn't show (it just says ERROR), and now with this problem I'm beginning to think I may just need to replace the cluster itself to fix everything! Thoughts? How hard is it to pull the cluster?
Second, the heat in my car hasn't worked since I bought it. Heater core? :(
Third, how big of a job is it to replace the valve cover gaskets? The Haynes manual doesn't even mention removing the intake manifold, throttle body, or anything like that. Is it really that easy of a job?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #26
In one short answer yes and no.

Have you hooked up a real gauge to read the real oil pressure?

My cluster has never read error anywhere on it. The oil pressure sensor has also not worked correctly since I have owned the car. The lights and cluster can be replaced very easily. I would pull the cluster out and make sure that the factory plastic printed circuits are not broken or missing.

Intake manifold is not to hard, but make sure you know how all the vacuum lines hook up. You will need to pull the intake to get to the valve covers. I just did the valve covers on my car. On one side the gasket was doubled up and there was blue silicone everywhere. I spent quite a bit of time sing off old gasket material, and it was very hard to try to not let any get into the engine. I wish I would have had a shop vac. Took me about 3 hours overall.

Non-working heater can be alot of things. Have you checked your coolant level? is the core hooked up still? What does your tempeture gauge say when it is warmed up?
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #27
Quote from: Haystack;312926
In one short answer yes and no.

Have you hooked up a real gauge to read the real oil pressure?

My cluster has never read error anywhere on it. The oil pressure sensor has also not worked correctly since I have owned the car. The lights and cluster can be replaced very easily. I would pull the cluster out and make sure that the factory plastic printed circuits are not broken or missing.

Intake manifold is not to hard, but make sure you know how all the vacuum lines hook up. You will need to pull the intake to get to the valve covers. I just did the valve covers on my car. On one side the gasket was doubled up and there was blue silicone everywhere. I spent quite a bit of time sing off old gasket material, and it was very hard to try to not let any get into the engine. I wish I would have had a shop vac. Took me about 3 hours overall.

Non-working heater can be alot of things. Have you checked your coolant level? is the core hooked up still? What does your tempeture gauge say when it is warmed up?


I haven't hooked up a real gauge, but I can tell you for a fact it has oil pressure. If not it wouldn't be running right now. I thought when I first bought the car that the bulbs were probably just blown, but seeing as they've worked a few times in the past, quite randomly, they could just not be making good contact or something. The mileage thing leads me to believe the cluster just needs to be replaced. If not the whole cluster atleast the speedo module in the center (speedo works fine, the mileage just reads ERROR).
The reason I really didn't want to fool with the intake/TB is the kickdown cable. I've never set one of those before, don't want to fry my AOD. I guess there is a first time for everything though. I'd rather pick up a transmission pressure gauge and have that hooked up so I can set the cable by pressure rather than by what feels or looks right. If I'm pulling that I'm just going to go ahead and pick up a H.O upper, EGR spacer, and TB. No sense in pulling it apart and not upgrading to some extent.
Coolant level is good. The core is still physically hooked up, I'll try to feel the lines to make sure they are getting warm this afternoon. The gauge read 3 bars during the end of a short trip down the road I took it on yesterday (few miles). The air works like it should, to me it almost feels like the air is running instead of the heat. The A/C compressor is kicking on and off, but alot of cars do that when the heat is running. The panel works for controlling the vents, blower speed, and all so I'm hesitant to believe that it's a control panel problem.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #28
the throttle cable just pops off of the throttle body. It is one peice more or less with the tv cable. There shouldn't be any adjustment required. I also swapped on the H.O. upper/throttle body, and I could tell absolutely no difference. Vacuum lines sucked to swap over. Use the parts from the old intake and swap them onto the new one, if you choose to go that route. I ended up swapping my IAC, TPS, and all the threaded vacuum inserts from the old intake setup. With the IAC that was on the new intake, the car would rev to 1500RPM and stay there. Don't forget to get the "upper plenume" gasket before doing the swap.

Also, your heater sounds like the classic heater core problems. Gets clogged or just dosen't work. Leave it in there long enough, and it might blow antifreeze all over the inside of the car.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

 

Oil Pressure (Updated PG 3)

Reply #29
Quote from: Haystack;312985
the throttle cable just pops off of the throttle body. It is one peice more or less with the tv cable. There shouldn't be any adjustment required. I also swapped on the H.O. upper/throttle body, and I could tell absolutely no difference. Vacuum lines sucked to swap over. Use the parts from the old intake and swap them onto the new one, if you choose to go that route. I ended up swapping my IAC, TPS, and all the threaded vacuum inserts from the old intake setup. With the IAC that was on the new intake, the car would rev to 1500RPM and stay there. Don't forget to get the "upper plenume" gasket before doing the swap.

Also, your heater sounds like the classic heater core problems. Gets clogged or just dosen't work. Leave it in there long enough, and it might blow antifreeze all over the inside of the car.


So if I just pop the cable off and don't really bother with it I won't have to adjust it when I reinstall it on the throttle body? If that's the case that'll make things alot easier. I'm thinking about just picking up an Explorer intake and throttle body. Swapping will be a bit more involved with the Explorer intake, but it should be worth a decent gain.

 heater core. I'm about to get a dash cap, new carpet and floormats so I'll have to fix it. Wishful thinking, but there's not an off chance that it could be caused by something else?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]