18X10s w/295s February 01, 2010, 02:15:21 PM As the title states, I would like to run these at all 4 corners. Please don't :flame: me too bad. I know I'll have to modify the front fenders and add some sort of spacer up front. Here what's going on in the front. I picked up various parts from a 00' GT like k-member w/ rack unit, complete hydro-boost setup, and everything that attaches to the LCA's. I left those as I already have MM sn95 LCA's. What do you all think??The wheel specs are:LMRs FR500s18X10B/S; 6.38O/S; +22mm Quote Selected
18X10s w/295s Reply #1 – February 02, 2010, 05:51:00 PM i think you got lots of work to do! but i wanna see em on there.im running a mustang width kmember w/sn95 length LCAs and an 8" wheel that has 6" BS. there is no room for me to go in or out with the wheel right now. i am not sure how a 00 GT kmember compares to an 86 tbird wrt LCA mounting width. are your MM LCAs fox or sn95 length? stock or forward offset?SWAG ahead:based just on numbers you are gonna need 1/8-1/2" spacer to clear the strut depending on your configuration, and ~2" worth of fender mods... Quote Selected
18X10s w/295s Reply #2 – February 02, 2010, 07:38:36 PM Quote from: gumby;309004i think you got lots of work to do! but i wanna see em on there.im running a mustang width kmember w/sn95 length LCAs and an 8" wheel that has 6" BS. there is no room for me to go in or out with the wheel right now. i am not sure how a 00 GT kmember compares to an 86 tbird wrt LCA mounting width. are your MM LCAs fox or sn95 length? stock or forward offset?SWAG ahead:based just on numbers you are gonna need 1/8-1/2" spacer to clear the strut depending on your configuration, and ~2" worth of fender mods...+1A few things to consider -It *might* be possible to move the control arms inboard a little. The longer control arms cause more inconveniences, but provide better geometry. Another option, which I seriously considered a couple of times, is modifying the strut towers, essentially moving the entire suspension inboard. If you can do the work yourself, it might not be too expensive. Otherwise you might consider ditching the whole thing for a different setup (eg Mustang II).Tire sizes vary by manufacturer, one company's 245 may be narrower than another company's 225, or visa versa. Quote Selected
18X10s w/295s Reply #3 – February 02, 2010, 09:42:22 PM i would stick with a smaller size tire and wheel for the front like 18x9's or 18x8's with 245 or 225 size tire in front Quote Selected
18X10s w/295s Reply #4 – February 03, 2010, 07:38:17 AM Quote from: gumby;309004i think you got lots of work to do! but i wanna see em on there.im running a mustang width kmember w/sn95 length LCAs and an 8" wheel that has 6" BS. there is no room for me to go in or out with the wheel right now. i am not sure how a 00 GT kmember compares to an 86 tbird wrt LCA mounting width. are your MM LCAs fox or sn95 length? stock or forward offset?SWAG ahead:based just on numbers you are gonna need 1/8-1/2" spacer to clear the strut depending on your configuration, and ~2" worth of fender mods...The MM LCAs are sn95s with stock offset/length. I plan on doing some work to the fenders. More on that later. I too want to see them on there. Quote from: blackcougar71;309046i would stick with a smaller size tire and wheel for the front like 18x9's or 18x8's with 245 or 225 size tire in frontSorry man, but I want equal size for rotational purposes :D Quote from: t3skidoo;309025+1A few things to consider -It *might* be possible to move the control arms inboard a little. The longer control arms cause more inconveniences, but provide better geometry. Another option, which I seriously considered a couple of times, is modifying the strut towers, essentially moving the entire suspension inboard. If you can do the work yourself, it might not be too expensive. Otherwise you might consider ditching the whole thing for a different setup (eg Mustang II).Tire sizes vary by manufacturer, one company's 245 may be narrower than another company's 225, or visa versa.I'm contemplating relocating the lower mounting points up a little to help with the up-coming bumpsteer issues. I'm also going to do the strut-tower mod for the CC plates I've seen. Correct me if I'm wrong, I believe either you gumby or you t3skidoo did it.As a much later future upgrade is, I'm wanting to get the Griggs SLA setup. I had never thought about the M-II stuff. I've almost got my garage arranged now so I can start aome of this work :burnout:Thanks again for the replies. John Quote Selected
18X10s w/295s Reply #5 – February 04, 2010, 01:13:46 PM those 10 inchers up front will make your job alot harder.I understand you want to be able rotate your tires, but it would seem 9 inchers would be a better choice, as posted above. Quote Selected
18X10s w/295s Reply #6 – February 04, 2010, 01:17:24 PM Quote from: t3skidoo;309025....Tire sizes vary by manufacturer, one company's 245 may be narrower than another company's 225, or visa versa.lol...I learned that the hard way when I bought my M&H drag radials. The numbers on the sidewall were not near what I thought they would be. Height was correct, but the tires were much narrower than the numbers would suggest. Quote Selected
18X10s w/295s Reply #7 – February 04, 2010, 11:54:06 PM 1BadBird,I modified my cc plates to get more suspension travel - unrelated to the wheel size, but I think necessary if moving to the SN95 suspension.If you decide to modify the K-member, and are going to have someone else do it, it will be *a lot* cheaper if you pull the K yourself and take it to them. Also, if moving the A's inboard, you will have to modify the K as described by MM. It wasn't necessary for me to do it using the factory mounting points.I think it might be possible to keep the factory sheet metal with 10" wide wheels *if* you modify the strut towers.One more thought. After some track time, I asked some questions about suspension settings/tuning because the back end was a little more tail happy than I expected. At this point I'm pretty sure that the car will be happier with a little more rubber out back. In other words, if you go with 10's up front, you might decide you need 11's or 12's in the back to keep your tail feathers from getting ruffled.QuoteSorry man, but I want equal size for rotational purposesHa, I just reread that and realized you might be talking about tire wear. My first thought was "yaw". Quote Selected
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