Engine codes, how to fix

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Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #30 – January 03, 2010, 01:27:12 PM

I would guess that the pinout to the ECU would then see the car as always being in park/neutral. This can cause the ECU to use the wrong strategy in certain situations.....

Are we even sure that the NSS/NDS is even hooked up? Is it jumpered/bypassed?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #31 – January 03, 2010, 02:18:58 PM

I don't think its jumpered or bypasses, I never did anything of the sort. I maycome of as dumb by saying this, but your explanation about the nss being grounded and whatnot, I'm not sure what your talking about. I don't know what pin 30 is, what should I check? I've never tried starting the car in anything but p or n just because, well why would i?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #32 – January 03, 2010, 05:31:21 PM

one of the best things you can do right now is poke your head under the hood and watch and observe things to see if something isnt working. get someone to start the car for you and wiggle some harnesses and wires while its running and then retest to see if any new codes show up. just a hunch.
have you resolved the EGR related code yet?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #33 – January 03, 2010, 05:40:20 PM

I had a few minutes of daylight today and I used the check engine light to generate codes, and I got a new one.

code 29-Vehicle speed sensor signal voltage is too low.

I really need some help, this car is falling apart, lol

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #34 – January 03, 2010, 09:18:31 PM

Quote

I don't know what pin 30 is, what should I check? I've never tried starting the car in anything but p or n just because, well why would i?

The image shows all the pins on your ECU and their respective locations.....
I wouldn't expect anybody who has a driver's license to attempt to start a vehicle in Drive.

Disconnect the ignition coil, get in, put her in D with the parking brake on and attempt to crank? Anything?

Quote

code 29-Vehicle speed sensor signal voltage is too low.

That's interesting....

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #35 – January 05, 2010, 04:19:47 PM

Alright I tested the tps. After testing the signal return wireI got a reading of .02 ohms. This was supposed to be close to 0 as possible, so this seems good. Next I checked the reference voltate(which goes to pin 26) and I got a reading of 5.02 volts. This is good, as its supposed to be close to 5 as possible. THe signal wire voltage is at .84, which is okay, its supposed to be close to 1. And finally when operating the throttle I got a very smooth increase in the voltate begining at a closed throttle, all the way to WOT. The voltage topped out at 4.60 volts, which is good. Its supposed to be close to 4.50 volts. I tested the voltage change during throttle operation twice, just to be sure, and I never got any type of a spike, or drop. So it seems the TPS is good.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #36 – January 05, 2010, 04:24:56 PM

Alright, I just not disconnected the coil, but the car in D and turned the key. NOTHING happened, well the dash lights went out, like always, but thats normal. So the nuetral drive switch, whatever its called, is working. I checked it in all operable gears, R, OD, D, and 1 and it did not crank over. Any ideas now?

Is there anything besides the IAC I should try cleaning? I am planning on taking the air intake hose off and cleaning the throttle blade(the disk that opens the more gas you give the car) just ot see if maybe its sticking. I'm begining to think maybe its something mechanical getting hung up, but I could be wrong. Suggestions are welcome. I sprayed the linkage for the throttle, but no change, still works as it always did.

What else could cause the rolling idle? The random spike in rpms?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #37 – January 05, 2010, 05:12:12 PM

I just ran KOEO self test on my 84 bird.
With the AC/Heat control in Defrost, AC normal or AC max I get a code 67.
Did you check the AC/Heat control before you ran the self test?
This won't solve your idle problem but it may get a confusion factor out of the way.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #38 – January 05, 2010, 10:38:04 PM

your tps voltage looked good,, but the higher the voltage the better from my experience.

less than a volt on the green wire with closed throttle and as close to 5v at wot as possible.

the best ive ever seen is the one on my 20th.
i have .76 at closed throttle adn 4.68 at wot.

i wont install the spare i have,, it will only dial in at .9v closed and 4.3v at wot.

you can use your ohm meter at a parts store and lay two identical tps's side by side and find the best one to buy. you dont need a tps now though,,,

do what was suggested on the hvac issue,, i think you might wanna spray come carb cleaner around the various vac connections **EVERYWHERE** there is one and listen to see if the engine rpm changes. Remember,, the lower / upper intake can leak and cause a surge.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #39 – January 06, 2010, 11:37:53 AM

Alright, I will start spraying carb cleaner around and see if I can find somewhere where the engine revs up, or where something is disconnected. The only thing I can think of of hand, is maybe the brake booster is starting to let go. I know on the oldsmobile it caused a vacuum leak when it started to go.

Also, the first time I noticed the high reving was when I put a new battery in. The old one had been py for a few months and I put the the new one in and whenI started it it immediately reved to probably around 2000, maybe a little more. And it stayed there. I shut the car off and turned it back on and it went away. Thats why I kindathink its something electronic, if I turn the car off then back on it'll go away. Is there anything over by the battery, on an 88(driver side) that could be pinched or knocked off? I loooked already, but I thought maybe there was something over there I was just missing.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #40 – January 06, 2010, 01:42:37 PM

I had to drive the car today. I took it downtown and carefully waited for something to go wrong, but it never did. When I got home after about an hour, I ran codes again, just because it was already warm, and I figured why not. I am still getting code 67. The sotred codes, those that are sounded off after a single light flash(which i was told means they are stored) were codes 33 and codes 29. What the hell is a vehicle speed sensor? I'n a little bit, I'll check for vacuum leaks, but just wanted to update anyone helping me. :)

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #41 – January 07, 2010, 12:44:45 AM

I had an idea.. These idle problemshappened after I put the battery in. Is it possible the battery may be defective and not taking a charge so the ecm is speeding up the idle to compensate for the charge? I know, its kind of a longshot, but I thought I would ask. I'll check the voltage on the battery tomorow, but wanted to know if the ecm even had this capability.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #42 – January 07, 2010, 01:47:28 AM

Quote from: jpc647;305394

I had an idea.. These idle problemshappened after I put the battery in. Is it possible the battery may be defective and not taking a charge so the ecm is speeding up the idle to compensate for the charge? I know, its kind of a longshot, but I thought I would ask. I'll check the voltage on the battery tomorow, but wanted to know if the ecm even had this capability.

yes,, that happens exactly as you explained it however,,it can go two ways.

the alternator has not only the sudden demand of the normal car operational piece parts but it also has to recharge battery that may be nearly dead (dead not being your case but still a good example).

in your case, with a partially bad battery, the alternator is constantly seeing a cell (2v) or perhaps more that are bad.
this could cause the eec to ramp the rpms.

In additon, the other perspective is that one or more of the diodes in the alternator is bad. you may show an alternator putting out about 16vdc but that may be just an indicator that its putting out some AC voltage along with DC. The voltage regulator on the alternator naturally wants to put out AC but is regulated to DC by the AC to DC rectifier. Not only does the regulator regulate the voltage level (ie- makes the choice by design that 14vdc is the max voltage) but it also changes the sine wave to a positive 14vdc but not really a true clean dc signal. Nonetheless, the theory is the battery will filter the remaining ac in the form of some residual heat.
too much AC coming out of an alternator could point the a cycle many people get into ,,they replace one part of the charging system only to have the other part break the new part.

if you change your battery,,you did it for a reason. how this bad battery effected your alternator is usually something people dont even know to consider or even think about. Yes a battery can draw sooo much current off an alternator that all the signs pointed to the battery but yet, the alternator suffered as well. I have seen many instances where the the very basic machines used in advance,,autozone and the like dont really descrinminate all that well with a partially bad alternator. An alternator has to be pretty fugged up to que in a failure.

so yes,, a long winded answer but yes it is possible.

as for your brake booster,, ill bet the majority of us here have a hissing power booser ourselves when we depress the brake,, its something i live with on the white coug. As i mentioned before,, and others have mentioned,, we have seen the TPS cause this problem but when its not the tps then we start looking for vac leaks.

your vehicle speed sensor is on the very end of your transmission housing. What it does is translate the rotation of a small plastic gear spinning at an rpm into a single that falls in the voltage range that can be displayed on your dash. you can spin the shaft of one with a drill and test it out . previous to the speed sensor, there was a round cable that spun around which the end was machined into a triangle or square that fit into the tiny gear assembly in the transmission. it was a real hard driven cable setup like what you would visualize present on on of those old exersise bikes with a speedo.

if you get to the point where you want to shot gun the problem,, i would spend my money on a new voltage regulator since your probably could use one.

another good preventative maint trick is to disconnect every vac line you can get to and spray wd40 in them. there are vac actuated solenoids where you can tug on the line and spray wd40 in those to. the reasons are for lubrication of the moving parts in the various vac actuated piece parts which typically are rubber orings, plastic sleves or bushings and the like. any emissions piece parts needs this done atleast once after all the life of our cars being now over 20 years old. dont forget about the vac lines going to the cruise system which are the lines entering the fender well on the drivers side. dont worry about too much wd40,, the car will spit it out or suck it in whereever it wants and the excess will go on its own into the pcv system.

your interior vac HVAC lines may also have a leak. if all that is working perfect although you said you had little heat, then its a fruitless adventure.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #43 – January 08, 2010, 01:21:38 PM

Quote from: V8Demon;304862

Code 67 WILL cause arolling idle FWIW.....

http://351winsor.com/joel/Flash_Simul/Code67_Rolling.SWF

When doing the test, the heater control was definately in the off position. Anyone know if this rolling idle can be applied to ours cars with a v8 and an auto tranny? Where is the plug? Or where does it plug into?

Could the tfi be casuing the problem?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #44 – January 08, 2010, 03:43:59 PM

Quote from: jpc647;305548

Anyone know if this rolling idle can be applied to ours cars with a v8 and an auto tranny? Where is the plug? Or where does it plug into?

I answered this already http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showpost.php?p=304898&postcount=24