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Topic: no 3rd-4th (Read 4115 times) previous topic - next topic

no 3rd-4th

Reply #15
As long as the shaft was the correct length and diameter that ain't your problem... You said you compared them any difference would have been obvious...

Like I said earlier, look into the converter...

 

no 3rd-4th

Reply #16
Quote from: Haystack;294814
there easy to pull out.

Yeah cmon bro you can do it!!! Ive only had mine out twice and I got that down to a science now :rollin:
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

no 3rd-4th

Reply #17
first time its a pain, after the second or third time you know what you have to do and its alot easier.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

no 3rd-4th

Reply #18
haha. usually they aint too bad. but i got a bigger pan. so i cant get to the converter bolts though the bottom side. i had to install them through the starter hole. and to take out the starter i have to take out the motor mount, unbolt the exhaust, lift up the one side of the engine, and unbolt and pull out both the header and the starter together.

this is why i started a thread asking about converters before i bought one. and why i started this thread asking if there was anything else i could do. cause i taking out the trans itself isnt bad, but taking out everything else to ge to the trans is what is gonna suck. im pretty pissed off. i'll have all winter to do this, and i knew i didn't plan on running a mostly stock AOD forever, but i really didn't plan on having to remove it now.


how hard is it to install a c-4? are they smaller or lighter? i'm almost thinking if i gotta pull it out, i might send this AOD to get beefed up. but built c-4's are way more common and cheaper. i'm kinda just batting around ideas. idk if its worth it.
1988 Thunderbird sport
2004 Ford F150 Lariat
2008  Chevrolet Cobalt Sport
2007 Suzuki DR-Z400S dual sport/Supermoto
1988 Thunderbird LX - sold
1988 Mercury Cougar XR-7 with GST kit - gone

no 3rd-4th

Reply #19
c4 has no overdrive. That alone wouldn't make it worth it for me if I ever wanted to drive on the highway.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com