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Topic: Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be. (Read 2999 times) previous topic - next topic

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #15
Quote from: thunderjet302;280168
Oh I read your thread. That made me not want to do the bushings;). I know my problem is the arms as I can wiggle the arm and get it to make the pop noise. What did your noise end up being?


http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=16294&page=6

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #16
I'll check the k member bolts too while I'm under there.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #17
Well I got the stuff. Should be tearing into it Monday the 6th at a friends garage. He has air tools and I do not. Getting the control arm bolts off with air tools looks to be much, much easier ;) So the last of the 21 year old parts in the front end will be changed. My list is:

FRPP 03-04 Cobra control arms
MOOG ball joints, since the ones in the Cobra arms don't work with the stock spindle
New Timken inner and outer wheel bearings to replace the 21 year old ones.

Sounds like it's going to be a fun Monday :D
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

 

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #18
That car should drive like it's brand new when you're finished. I can't wait to hear the results.
1988 Thunderbird
306 HO w/ A9P processor
AOD w/ Transgo Reprogrammer
Full Digital Dash w/ twin Cyberdyne A-pillar gauges 
245/50/16 Tires on Snowflakes
Engine swap - CA smog compliant

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #19
Wow when I did this. I just took the LCA's off took them to the shop them pressed the old bushings out and put the new ones in. $20 and about 30min all was good. If the local shop I went to can do it I can do it and so could you. They just used that C-clamp ball joint press with a spacer for the gap in between the two sides. After they were done. I was thinking WTF is wrong with me I could have done that! Sometimes its all about what you have it built up in your mind compared to what it really is

Stuckman
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #20
Quote from: 88BlueBird;280600
That car should drive like it's brand new when you're finished. I can't wait to hear the results.


The car rides great right now so I can only guess how good it's going to ride with the new control arms:D. Hell it rides better than my friends brand new Civic.

Quote from: ipsd;280664
Wow when I did this. I just took the LCA's off took them to the shop them pressed the old bushings out and put the new ones in. $20 and about 30min all was good. If the local shop I went to can do it I can do it and so could you. They just used that C-clamp ball joint press with a spacer for the gap in between the two sides. After they were done. I was thinking WTF is wrong with me I could have done that! Sometimes its all about what you have it built up in your mind compared to what it really is

Stuckman



I know I could get the bushings pressed out but now I'll have nice, new, shiney black powdercoated control arms :D
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #21
Ok I got the arms in (it was a PITA to get the springs back in:hick:) and the car rides about 100% better. Here's the kicker: I was able to use the 03-04 Cobra ball joints with the stock 10" brake spindles. I just put everything on for the hell of it and tightened down the lock nut. I got 1.5-2 threads over the top of the lock nut on each side and everything seated down fine. So I'm going to drive it around for a week or two and check the tightness of the ball joint nuts after every drive. If it stays tight I might not have to use the T-bird spec ball joints I bought. If not it's easy enough to swap out ball joints. The only thing that worries me is even though the lock nut is engaged I don't like the fact that these ball joints don't use cotter pins. Maybe I'm just crazy but the cotter pins seem like a good idea ;)
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #22
The Nylock nuts work good ;0) Keep an eye out on i bu you should be all set...
:america: 1988 Thunderbird Sport, Former 4.6 DOHC T56 conversion project.

Rest of the country, Welcome to Massachusettes. Enjoy your stay.

 
Halfbreed... Mango Orange Y2K Mustang GT
FRPP complete 2000 Cobra engine swap, T56 n' junk...
~John~

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #23
After driving it for a few days the nuts are still as tight as they should be. I've even hit a few pot holes :mad: (accidentally of course) and all is well.

You know being that these arms have 1/2" deeper spring pockets it looks like the front of my T-bird may have dropped a bit. I didn't do a before and after measurement but it looks like it sits 1/4"-1/2" lower in the front.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #24
1/2 inch deeper pocket *should* put you roughly an inch lower since the springs are roughly centered in the control arm....1/2 inch drop in the center equals 1 inch drop at the wheel if everything is centered.....
Currently Birdless but never Foxless

86 Mustang GT

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #25
The nylock nuts are still holding but they scare the bejesus out of me. They have 1-1.5 threads out over there top of the blue part but I'm still worried they are going to back out. Could I drill a hole through the nut and ball joint stud and insert a cotter pin "just in case"? If it had a pin there is no way it could back out. Or should I just swap out the ball joints (I still have the T-bird spec ones)? It's holding together fine but after doing some searching I think I've freaked myself out about having the thing fail......
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #26
The SN-95 cars used the nyloc nuts.  They're not going to loosen up on you as long as the threads are fully engaged in the nylon.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon-  '81 Granada GL 2dr

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #27
How much of the thread has to be above the nylon for the nut to be fully engaged? I have about 1-1.5 threads above the blue nylon part and the nuts are pretty much even with the top of the ball joint stud. Is that enough?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #28
If you see any thread above the nylon, they ain't gonna move.  Those are the same design used on aircraft.  Ever fly anywhere worrying about whether every nut had a cotter pin in it?
:birdsmily:
(X2) '86 Thunderbird, 3.8L CFI, C5 Tranny
 
'92 F-150, 5.0L EFI (SD), M5OD Tranny, 3.08 Dif
 
'70 VW Beetle, 1780cc, twin Solex 43's.

Lower control arm bushings......oh what a PITA this is going to be.

Reply #29
FAA std is to have 1 full thread (not including thread chamfer) above the top of the nut. Aviation Mil-std is to have 2 threads (including chamfer) above the top of the nut.