R12 to R134a (air conditioning question)

June 15, 2009, 08:19:33 PM

Thanks

R12 to R134a (air conditioning question)

Reply #1 – June 16, 2009, 10:40:02 AM

Look for a product called Freeze 12. You won't 'burn through' any refrigerant regardless of where you are or which one the system uses unless you don't fix the leaks.

R12 to R134a (air conditioning question)

Reply #2 – June 16, 2009, 10:56:48 AM

Local auto parts stores have retrofit kits to convert to R134a. They are around $40 and contain R134a refridgerant with oil, the screw on valve fittings, a retrofit sticker and instructions on DVD.

R12 to R134a (air conditioning question)

Reply #3 – June 16, 2009, 06:52:21 PM

I've done two systems, one successfully.

The quickie $40 kits work but without a flush you'll be mixing PAG and mineral oil which can cause problems.

On my Ranger my compressor siezed so I took the oportunity to convert. I replaced all the "O" ring seals in the system along with the metering orifice. This was rather simple. The black R12 "O" rings are not compatible with the PAG oil.

I replace the compressor and the receiver/dryer. I vacuumed out the system to ensure there were no leaks and serviced with 134a. About a year later I had a leak at the adapter for the low pressure side. Just a py part. I've since reserviced after replacing the part.

I spent about 8 hours and $299.85 on parts and coolant. The replacement seals were $6 and was provided way too many. Many left overs but that's good. All the sizes were in the bag. The green seals are the 134a compatible ones.

The second car, my 82 Cougar wagon has a leak I've not been able to find. I've dyed the system and still don't know where it leaks. It's a part time driver now so no biggie. I only spend the $6 for seals and had another set of high and low adapters. It's got an old twin piston york compressor so I'm not sure of it's condition. It could have a leak at the cylinder head or the condensor as it looks like it's be hit a couple of times with rocks. The evaporator is known good as I pressure checked it when I replaced the heater core.

So, for about $300 bucks do it right. Much less if you don't need a compressor but the receiver/dryer (accumulator) should be replaced as there's no way to get all the oil out and retain the dryer capability. If the system has been open for a while the desicant may be bad.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

Just my opinion.