Possible Ignition Problem

Topic: Possible Ignition Problem (Read 1699 times) previous topic - next topic

Possible Ignition Problem

June 05, 2009, 11:32:12 AM

I went to start my car this morning and when I turned the key forward(when all the gauges and radio turn on) everything was dim. I went to start and nothing. I Clicked the key off did it again, same thing. But if I turn the key to start fast and a little hard it works as it should.

Is this the ignition switch(where you put the key) going bad? What else should I check? Are they hard to change?

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #1 – June 05, 2009, 02:31:04 PM

First, you don't put the key in the ignition switch, you put it in a lock cylinder that activates the ignition switch (which is further down the column) via a rod. This is an important distinction, as I've actually had a Ford dealer try to blame an ignition switch fire I had in a '91 T-Bird on my heavy key ring. Impossible, because the keys don't go anywhere near the switch itself.

Second, and more importantly, yes, your ignition switch is likely bad. This is a very common and very serious problem - so serious that Ford was forced to recall millions of cars from 1988-1994ish to replace them. There are two problems with the recall: 1) The new switches were just as pr0ne to failure as the old ones, and once Ford replaced it once they were no longer liable for future fires, and 2) The recall only went back to 1988, and the switch itself dates back to the early 80's.

If yours is a 1988 you can try Ford to see if the recall has been done on your car, and if it hasn't, it'll be done for free. If you have an 87 or older, or if the recal has already been done, you will have to pay for a new switch. The good news is that the new switch is under $20 and is simple to replace, you only need to remove the steering column lower shroud, unbolt the old switch (you'll need a special "tamper proof" Torx bit), unplug it, plug the new one in, bolt it up, and you're done. When you unplug the old switch you will need to check the connector for melting/burning - if it has any signs of either, you'll need to replace it too.

I've said this a thousand times to others whose ignition switches have failed, and I say it to you for your own good: Disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected, and do NOT drive the car until the switch is replaced! DO NOT LEAVE THE CAR UNATTENDED WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED UNTIL THE SWITCH IS REPLACED! Your car is now a ticking time bomb, and when that switch fails completely it WILL catch fire! You do not have to be in the car, nor does the switch have to be on for this to happen, it could go at any time! I say this from personal experience! I had one catch fire!

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #2 – June 05, 2009, 03:39:25 PM

You think its the ignition switch and not the lock cylinder then? Also it does the same thing if I turn the key backwards. This would make me think its the lock cylinder not the switch, right? I'm just asking.

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #3 – June 05, 2009, 03:52:51 PM

The lock cylinder is purely mechanical. If you put the key in and it turns, the lock cylinder is not the problem. All the electronics are in the switch (well, except for the "you left the key in" buzzer contact).

CoogarXR

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #4 – June 05, 2009, 04:06:48 PM

Okay. So you guys think the problem is the switch?

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #5 – June 05, 2009, 05:15:44 PM

Yes. Replace it. It's cheap insurance. And again, disconnect the battery until you do. I may sound like Chicken Little, but I've experience the fire personally a few times (with some serious damage in my '91 and minor damage in an '87, more damage prevented only by my knowing what was happening when the column started smoking), and there have been many fires caused by it, including a few houses burning down because the cars were parked in garages.

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #6 – June 05, 2009, 05:25:47 PM

Okay, them my stupid question, what does this switch look like? I have one in my parts car, I'll take it off so I can know what I'm expecting when I change it.

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #7 – June 05, 2009, 06:48:37 PM

It's aluminum, about 3" long, and attached to the steering column just below the lock cylinder. Just follow the biggest wires in your column harness and you'll find it :hick:

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #8 – June 07, 2009, 09:35:52 AM

Wow,.. Good luck jcp////

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #9 – June 09, 2009, 02:32:20 PM

So is there a difference between a new ignition switch and the old "faulty" ones? If so what is it? I have another one now, and it looks exactly the same. I don't want to put it in, even if its a new part, if it is subject to the same problems as before. Any advice?

Also, what do they normally do when they start to go bad? I saw no burning on the old one, and just thought I would ask. If the new ones or whatever are subject to the same problem I want to know what to look for.
The old one doesn't appear bad, what I think happened was the plastic plug can easily be seperated slightly on one side from the aluminum piece. I know it was replaced about 5 years ago, because my father remembered the stupid tamer proof screws that he punched out the center so a normal torx head would fit.

Maybe I am a little paranoid, I just don't want to put another one in and then have the car burn when I think I know the problem with the one what was in there.

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #10 – June 09, 2009, 04:17:54 PM

The new switches are identical to the old ones. The only difference would be the part number stamped on the switch - the original switch would have a part number that starts with "E", while the new one would have a part number that starts with "F".

You won't see any exterior signs of problems unless the switch has actually burned (I had one burn a hole right through the side). The problem with the switches is in the contacts (plates) inside the switch. They wear over time and the copper filings that wear off them builds up between the plates, causing shorts. At the same time the wearing plates make poor contact with the slider (the thing that moves when you turn the switch on), and poor contact causes heat.

Regardless whether your current switch is an E (old) or F (new), if you're having symptoms of a bad switch, replace it. Don't cheap out with a used one, get a new one.

As for what problems to look for when a switch fails, you've already experienced one of the early symptoms. Another common symptom is an engine that starts but the heater, gauges and turn signals don't work. Basically, any time you have multiple systems fail at the same time (such as heater, turn signals and gauges) it's usually the switch.

There is nothing you can do to prevent the problem altogether, aside from rewiring the "power distribution" circuits that feed the accessories in the car (which I have done in my car, but it is not a job for a novice). A new switch still has the inherent flaw, but it should still last many years before failing again.

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #11 – June 10, 2009, 04:17:11 AM

Thank You.

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #12 – June 13, 2009, 02:22:54 PM

One more question, just for reference. When they start to fail, what are the symptoms?

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #13 – June 13, 2009, 03:50:47 PM

Quote from: Thunder Chicken;276708

As for what problems to look for when a switch fails, you've already experienced one of the early symptoms. Another common symptom is an engine that starts but the heater, gauges and turn signals don't work. Basically, any time you have multiple systems fail at the same time (such as heater, turn signals and gauges) it's usually the switch.

Possible Ignition Problem

Reply #14 – June 13, 2009, 05:54:49 PM

Ford stated the problem with the '88-'92 switches was the contacts inside were so closely spaced, the the grease could conduct electricity between the contacts and catch fire(electricity + resistance = heat)... This is why they sometimes burn in the middle of the night, for no apparent reason... The problem started occurring when the switches were only a few years old and the grease had been subject to the switch arcing when turned through its positions... The '87-earlier switches had a larger spacing between contacts that was wide enough to supposedly prevent the "arc across" issue... The newer switches went back to a larger contact spacing...