Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: 1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W (Read 258427 times) previous topic - next topic

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #900 –
An old set of E7's for now. I'm pretty happy with the power and driveability. Mileage is a bit lower than I had hoped is all.
 

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #901 –
Have the heads pressure checked. Sometime heads crack and you cant see and magnafluxing sucks. Magnafluxing only shows cracks that you can see, its not going to show you cracks in ports or oil galleys.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #902 –
Thanks, Bruce. After this mess I will certainly do it.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #903 –
Hey Jim

What are you averaging for mpg?  Have you tried lean cruise within Megasquirt?

Travis

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #904 –
16-18 MPG at present. Yeah, I've got it decently lean for low load cruise. I may add another row for tuning down there and fine tune it a bit more, or go to closed loop and let the computer handle it at low throttle settings.

With my son's graduation party this weekend and all the golf stuff going on I haven't played with it much. Been enjoying my Avalanche (and the A/C!) too much, too.

I am now considering a set of Procomp heads built up by a reputable shop. Been doing a bit of internet shopping on them and they seem a viable option instead of putting any time/money in E7's.

MS1-extra closed loop idle sorted out!

Reply #905 –
The car has been behaving very well and I have been working on small issues that I felt needed attention. The goal for this project has always been to have a 100% sorted car that feels like stock at idle and cruise.

I revisited the closed loop idle and hunkered down on msefi.com for a few hours of study. After searching and reading I came across a thread from '06 where a person had some luck with the Ford IAC valve and had shared his settings. I recorded those and plugged them into my ECU and had instant success!

I am leaving them here for anyone that wants to give them a try. Should work on any Ford valve with TIP 120 transistor mod on v2.2 or v3.0 running MS1-extra code with 29y firmware.

FOR MS1-EXTRA code running on v2.2 board with EDIS and idle valve mods

A couple of notes:

1. Open your TPS calibration an the tools menu and write down the value for  closed throttle ADC. You will add about 4 to that value and use it for the TPS value in the idle settings. If you get no idle control, try stepping it up one at a time until the valve begins to work.

2. I have a 2.3 idle valve. Yours may act slightly different. I needed a frequency value of 50, but the OP used 100. See what works for you.

3. Stable idle begins with good bins in the timing and fuel tables. Before using closed loop, get the car to idle without hunting by getting the flattest set of values as possible around idle, with timing set just BELOW the optimum value. IE. reduce timing there by a few degrees from the highest rpm at idle. It works best for me like that, and the idle is stronger that way. Batch fire cars also seem to like to idle at 13.5 as opposed to 14.7. Try richening a little if you are hunting a bit.

4. Begin with warmup only and get your freq, crank, and idle temps right. Once you have good control of the valve, move on to closed loop and fill in the rest of the values.

OK, here's what I am using. Good Luck!!

Freq=50
Crank=35
Min=15
Closed=0

Fast Idle Temp=70
Min Temp=175
Fast idle spd=1200
Slow idle spd=700
TPS=40.........................see notes!!
Idle activation=500
Dashpot settle=150
Dashpot add=3
Deadband=30
Upper Limit=210
Lower Limit=15
Slow Recovery=30

Closure speed=125............try 255 to see the effect it has. Your best may be somewhere in between
Startup Delay=20


fast time 10
slow time 30

ALL credit to superchargingmachine on the msefi.com mshagtra forum. He is the one who did all the work. I just copied his results from many hours of work and study. The code was written by Kiethg.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #906 –
Here is what the superchargingmachine said to me in a PM. His final thoughts on MS1 closed loop control.


-snip-

 The biggest problem I have noticed with closed loop control is that the intake temps change while you drive. The way the code works is it holds the last valve position it has when it goes out of closed loop. So when you start up and pull out of the driveway the intake temps are cool. After you drive a while and try to go back into close loop the valve goes to the wrong position and either the car dies or idles high until it finds the correct valve position. My idle works best when I give the car a long closed loop warm up but even this doesn't completely fix my problem because I have a turbo which can sometimes make my intake temps artificially high. I have high hopes that the addition of this table will fix this.

-end-

My thought on a solution for this is to bump up the MIN dc value on the valve to keep it from ever closing too far. That way you won't have a stalling issue when transitioning from cold to warm.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #907 –
Good to hear Jim...I would assume closed loop would get the car some additional fuel economy.  What are you getting now?

Travis

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #908 –
I don't expect any change, I don't idle much. This is more a driveability fix. Especially with big electric fans and A/C.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #909 –
That megasquirt find is pretty neat.  Seems like making the aftermarket engine management seem more OEM....Thats pretty sweet in my book.

Travis

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #910 –
Yeah, it is a bit of work, but rewarding at times. I noticed today that my fuel pressure was unusually high. Not a good sign since that can only be the FPR. It isn't leaking, but I'll have to see what is up with that. I need a reliable FPR on a turbo car! This one is a new BBK from summit. I'll try to reseat it by loosening and resetting base pressure tomorrow and see how it responds.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #911 –
Do you need the fuel pressure to be above or below the factory 40psi? I've always run a stock Motorcraft unit because the stock EEC just compensates for changes in fuel pressure so there is no need for an adjustable one. Now with the Megasquirt that may not apply. Most aftermarket fuel pressure regulators are not nearly as good as the stock Motorcraft unit.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #912 –
I needed an aftermarket one because the intake was flipped and a stocker hit the intake. I agree with you, a stock part is  often superior.

I try to incorporate OEM as much as possible in my builds.

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #913 –
IIRC megasquirt wants you to set the fuel pressure at 43.5 with vacuum line off.  The injectors I bought are rated at 80lb at 40psi.  But are rated at 83.ish at 43.5psi.

It is interesting.

Travis

1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W

Reply #914 –
Problem is not with FPR as much as the wideband is flatlining. It's putting out garbage info due to a code 9 'voltage output low' error. Gotta look into that next.