Current draw

April 17, 2009, 08:02:28 PM

Ok, I know the car draws around 50 mA just sitting there, right? Is that just for the radio, or for the computer too. I had a .14 Amp draw on it, and as soon as a pulled the radio (aftermarket, if that makes a difference), the draw went away.... totally. Meter reads 0. I'm thought the computer would draw some too, right?

Current draw

Reply #1 – April 17, 2009, 08:09:43 PM

50ma is the upper limit, all I've checked have been less than 25ma... I too would have thought the EEC would draw a bit of current as well, but maybe not... If it's not giving a memory fail code (15 I believe), I wouldn't be concerned...

Current draw

Reply #2 – April 17, 2009, 09:20:20 PM

I'm trying to start a fresh engine, and I've gone mass air. The engine will turn, but not fire, and I'm getting spark. Thought the injectors weren't firing, but couldn't test it till I found the drain. Was hoping I got two birds with one stone, but the noid light is going off now, so back to square one....

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Reply #3 – April 18, 2009, 02:10:41 AM

anytime i see spark and fuel but no start,, tells me the stator is bad down in the distributor.

This has only happened to me twice though were I had the time to troubleshoot.

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Reply #4 – April 21, 2009, 12:23:14 PM

It was the radio. Always acted funny anyway, turning off magically.

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Reply #5 – April 21, 2009, 01:58:25 PM

Radio kept the car from starting?

Seriously, did you solve it?

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Reply #6 – April 21, 2009, 09:44:35 PM

Radio killed battery. Which kinda killed the car.

Solved draw problem, but injectors still not working. Was going to test fuel pressure, but now the d@$n fuel pump ain't working....

If this car was a woman, I'd ask for a divorce.

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Reply #7 – April 22, 2009, 02:14:43 AM

Quote from: tireshredder;268523

injectors still not working. Now the d@$n fuel pump ain't working....

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Reply #8 – April 22, 2009, 12:49:33 PM

Quote from: tireshredder;268523

Was going to test fuel pressure, but now the d@$n fuel pump ain't working....

Probably your problem from the begnning...

Current draw

Reply #9 – April 22, 2009, 12:54:42 PM

It was priming fine until I went to test the pressure. It's a new Walbro unit too. My brother and I think the relay went bad, cause the wire from it to the pump isn't getting power. But it's just an guess for the most part.

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Reply #10 – April 23, 2009, 07:17:04 PM

Did you try resetting the inertia switch???

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Reply #11 – April 23, 2009, 08:03:21 PM

Of course. New relay didn't work either. I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for the fuel pump system so I can start testing (and know what I'm doing).

How many volts can the pump handle? I want to test it, to see if that is the problem.

Current draw

Reply #12 – May 02, 2009, 09:28:22 PM

Ok, I've been back at it. Inertia switch is fine. If I jump the power wire to the fuel pump wire on the relay connector, it runs. If I bypass the inertia switch, it doesn't. I thinking now that the relay isn't getting the signal, so it's not switching on. Anyone have an idea?

Current draw

Reply #13 – May 02, 2009, 10:55:56 PM

Ok, tested a couple wires on the connector from them to the ground. Red wire -12V. Yellow Wire-12V. Tan/Green- 12V. Pink/black- 0V. I think thats right, but I've been wrong before.

And as a side note, the new relay has 5 connectors, but the old one only has 4. It's the right part number (from the website anyway.) Could this be messing it up?

Current draw

Reply #14 – May 03, 2009, 02:16:04 PM

Put the old fuel pump relay back in. The new one having an extra connector is suspicious.

With the key in run without starting the pump should run for 1 or 2 seconds (priming).
If it does not run leave the key in run and jumper the T/LG wire in pin 6 of the self test connector to ground.

If the pump runs it means the EEC Power Relay, the Inertia Switch and the Fuel Pump Relay
are all good but EEC did not provide ground for the pump relay when it was supposed to
prime.

BK/Y wire #175 and R wire #361 are tied together on the next page.