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(*#$!!

So I got my dress-up kit in the mail, which included valve cover bolts.  I threaded one bolt all the way down, but it had a little slack. I figured maybe there was some crud in the hole, so I just kept spinning it down in there...without very much pressure the  head snapped off.

What do i need to tap this sucker out?  I tried cutting a groove in the bolt, but it just broke my  screwdriver when I wrenched on it.

(*#$!!

Reply #1
You can drill a small hole in the center of the bolt and get an easy-out and thread the bolt back out - easier said than done though - I had to do this on a bolt I broke off inside a fire pump . It was 5/8" and it was still a PITA but its worth a shot
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII


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Reply #2
Those suck pretty bad. You will need to drill it out. Probably a very small drill bit, and you may break the easy off. Might be time for some better heads if it comes to the point of taking it to the machine shop.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

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Reply #3
They're GT40 cast heads. I am not going to replace them, as I have home ported them and spent a good deal of cash on them.  I can't imagine a machine shop would charge me anything over a couple bucks to hog a snapped bolt out, especially not a valve cover bolt.

Besides, the whole engine is outside the car.  I can just drag the sucker down there and have em fix it.


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Reply #5
I hope so...seems to be pretty darn tight in there so far.

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Reply #6
ugh.... So i tried everything.  I tried a reverse threaded bit, nothing.  Tried a easy-out and the thing SNAPPED OFF in it.  Now even my bits dont make a dent. why does this shiznit happen to me :(.

Can I take the entire block to the machine shop or do i need to dismantle it?

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Reply #7
i'd just take the whole thing.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

(*#$!!

Reply #8
I just gave up and put a fat bead of silicone over that end of the valve cover.

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Reply #9
How much of the bolt was exposed???? If you have an 1/8 to 1/4 you can weld a wrench or piece of metal to it....... or use a pipe wrench........ If that broken bolt is on the lower side of the cover, id get it out now, the motor is out and still in the build up stages,..... im sure the last thing you want is to finish the motor and put it in just to see it leak all over,... and besides yougo through all this work, and neglect something small like that????? If you reallly cant get it out, or drill it out, then id drill n tap a hole about a 1/4 inch away from the broken one, and do the same for the valve cover...
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Just enjoyin the ride!!!!

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Reply #10
Quote from: Grumbles;267847
I just gave up and put a fat bead of silicone over that end of the valve cover.


Not cool.Take it to the machine shop,drop a few bucks,and do it right the first time.Don't leave it that way.Pull the head if you have to,but get it done right.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

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Reply #11
The trouble with that theory is that my local machine shop has already stated they figure it's a lost cause because I busted an easy-out off in it.  I'm also running drastically short on money to spend, just getting this far has gone WAY over my budget, and I'm not even into replacing the transmission and getting the correct linkeages yet.

Would it cost much? probably not, but having to buy $60-70 worth of gaskets and spend 50+ to get it fixed for a single valve cover bolt makes me a sad panda.  I'd be willing to tap a second hole and thread that, but I don't have the tools on hand, and frankly I'm tired of getting nick-and-dimed before the  thing's even IN the car nick-and-diming me like it should with hoses and whatnot.

I can't imagine a top corner bolt being an issue. if you guys figure the probability of it leaking is REALLY that high I'll disassemble it, but I warn you, i WILL do so kicking and/or screaming.  I just put the F#^%ing thing together and an ARP bolt snaps in the most useless place ever.

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Reply #12
God it everybody I've talked to so far has indicated that they're positive it's going to leak.

Why me :(

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Reply #13
are they steel heads? is it broke below the surface,if so you might be able to have stud welded on, even with aluminum ones.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

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Reply #14
yes, with an easy out, your not going to drill anything out of there unless you have a real diamond tip bit.


A little late here but get a set of craftsman Grabits bit.  They would nave gotten that bolt out.  I have a set from the boys for christmas and let me tell you they are worth evey penny.  I put them to the test.

Kitz mentioned welding a stud,, that is your only option right now.