My new dash panel......

Topic: My new dash panel...... (Read 7097 times) previous topic - next topic

My new dash panel......

Reply #30 – March 27, 2009, 11:12:36 AM

Like it was supposed to be there right Vin?

This is the one I wanted.

http://www.mossmuscle.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=65825&SortOrder=1

My new dash panel......

Reply #31 – March 27, 2009, 11:25:00 AM

Right on.

I had seen that button before that you posted.It fits in aa factory location on the new Stangs.I needed a more universal application.I bought it having no idea where it was going.Plus,as always with me,cost is a factor.I try to keep it as cheap as possible.That's just how I roll.LOL.

My new dash panel......

Reply #32 – March 27, 2009, 11:30:32 AM

Yeah I'm the same way. I kind of want to do the same "Looks stock" thing. I thought about finding an S2000 starter button too. I've heard those are about the same to wire up.

My new dash panel......

Reply #33 – March 27, 2009, 11:32:21 AM

There are some cool ones on Ebay as well.I had my friend who woks at Autozone order mine.I forgot what company,it was about a year ago or so.

My new dash panel......

Reply #34 – March 27, 2009, 11:45:13 AM

Yeah I was just looking at them on eBay. Looks like you can do it reletively cheap. Might just have to order one.

My new dash panel......

Reply #35 – March 27, 2009, 01:52:23 PM

After this,I have a few more ideas coming soon.

My new dash panel......

Reply #36 – March 27, 2009, 02:12:57 PM

Quote from: vinnietbird;264093

I haven't really got into it yet.There are 4 or 5 wires and a relay.I'll let you know where they go as soon as I know for sure.I have the instructions in my small parts box.

Was there a kit or something? lol where'd you get the kit?

My new dash panel......

Reply #37 – March 27, 2009, 02:27:23 PM

The button came as a kit in a tall skinny box.It had different colored lenses for the switch,red,clear,and blue.I took the red lens,painted it red from behind to make it more opaque,then re-assembled it all.Check around on Ebay,there are a LOT of kits there.

My new dash panel......

Reply #38 – March 27, 2009, 02:59:55 PM

Alright thanks. I just wanted to know if they were availible or if this was something you've engineered lol

My new dash panel......

Reply #39 – March 27, 2009, 03:00:58 PM

Th kit is as delivered (except for the paint I added),and the panel was engineered.

My new dash panel......

Reply #40 – March 27, 2009, 07:41:16 PM

The "engine start button" i think that was installed in my car came from http://www.miatamania.com part # 101-470 and comes at a price of $29.95. of course the word "start" has started rubbing off.

http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=73087&SortOrder=1

My new dash panel......

Reply #41 – April 02, 2009, 07:48:17 PM

this should work

in reality , you could jumper 30 to 86 on the relay. 30 wont get any power till you push the button anyway.

My new dash panel......

Reply #42 – April 02, 2009, 08:48:52 PM

Scott, what's the point of the relay in your diagram? The starter relay is already a low-current circuit, so the relay is redundant (you're using a relay to turn a relay on).

Also, the way that is wired the starter would spin any time the button is pressed. It'd be better to feed it off the red/light green "RUN" wire off the ignition switch, as this would allow it only to spin the starter when the key is in "RUN".

Vinnie, in response to your PM, you should connect the switch as follows:

Remove the lower steering column shroud to access the ignition switch wiring. This is the best place to pick up your power feeds, since you're going straight to the source.

RED (constant feed): Connect this to one of the thick yellow wires at the ignition switch
YELLOW (switched 12V feed): Connect this to the red/light green stripe wire at the ignition switch
WHITE: (start): Connect this to the red/light blue wire at the ignition switch. If you want to retain the START function in the ignition switch simply "T" into this wire. If you want to lose the start function of the ignition switch and make it so that you must use the button, cut the red/light blue wire and connect the starter button's white wire to the harness side of the cut. Tape the ignition side of the cut up so it can't short to anything. Personally, I'd keep the start function in the ignition switch, because constantly forgetting about that button would get old really quick...

NOTE: You should install inline fuse holders in both the red (constant) and yellow (switched) and fuse both at no more than 10 amps. If you tap into those ignition switch wires with no fuses it's as good as connecting directly to the battery, and could cause a fire if that starter button ever shorts out or if the wires you run ever chaffe on anything.

My new dash panel......

Reply #43 – April 02, 2009, 10:59:04 PM

see edits below, I suggested he could put the push button by putting one side on the ign sw yellow and the other side to the red/light blue. He explained he wanted a redundant feature, cause his friend had a fire. Until he is able to tell us the ampacity rating of the push button, I wouldnt use the push button to power the fender starter relay. He said it was very light feeling and the contacts on it are oddly tiny.

He asked how to wire his kit,,

Quote from: Thunder Chicken;265568

Scott, what's the point of the relay in your diagram? The starter relay is already a low-current circuit, so the relay is redundant (you're using a relay to turn a relay on).

[COLOR="Blue"][COLOR="Blue"]My point exactly but its his kit, not mine. I brought that up to him during the call and he was afraid of fire and such. I only showed him how to wire "his Kit". We can not argue that the circuit will work, its just a little overkill on relays. Besides, there are many instances where relays are used to feed relays, ect. Such as an example of the auto lamp circuit in our cars.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]

Also, the way that is wired the starter would spin any time the button is pressed. It'd be better to feed it off the red/light green "RUN" wire off the ignition switch, as this would allow it only to spin the starter when the key is in "RUN".

[COLOR="blue"]And so will the starter when you rotate the key to start while the car is running.,, just dont push the button:D [/COLOR][/COLOR]

Vinnie, in response to your PM, you should connect the switch as follows:

Remove the lower steering column shroud to access the ignition switch wiring. This is the best place to pick up your power feeds, since you're going straight to the source.

RED (constant feed): Connect this to one of the thick yellow wires at the ignition switch
YELLOW (switched 12V feed): Connect this to the red/light green stripe wire at the ignition switch
WHITE: (start): Connect this to the red/light blue wire at the ignition switch. If you want to retain the START function in the ignition switch simply "T" into this wire. If you want to lose the start function of the ignition switch and make it so that you must use the button, cut the red/light blue wire and connect the starter button's white wire to the harness side of the cut. Tape the ignition side of the cut up so it can't short to anything. Personally, I'd keep the start function in the ignition switch, because constantly forgetting about that button would get old really quick...

[COLOR="blue"]the diagram allows that to happen, start is still in place in conjunction with the push button[/COLOR][/COLOR]

NOTE: You should install inline fuse holders in both the red (constant) and yellow (switched) and fuse both at no more than 10 amps.

[COLOR="blue"]the yellow wire has a 15A circuit protection,, this means its going to be a fused circuit identical to the neighboring stock wiring..[/COLOR]

If you tap into those ignition switch wires with no fuses it's as good as connecting directly to the battery, and could cause a fire if that starter button ever shorts out or if the wires you run ever chaffe on anything.[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Blue"]the yellow wire for his relay coil and contact has a fuse in line. Maybe I am misunderstanding you.[/COLOR]

My new dash panel......

Reply #44 – April 02, 2009, 11:14:30 PM

Scott, those feeds you mentioned aren't fused. If you look at the EVTM the yellow wire feeds that 15A fuse, not the other way around. The only protection on that yellow wire is a 16-gauge fusible link, which is way, way too big to protect that li'l starter button.

The last time I did a draw test on a Ford starter relay's coil circuit (back in trade school, on my '85 V6 Bird) it drew 150mA while cranking. That's not enough to put much of a load on any switch...