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Topic: Got some bad rust (Read 3285 times) previous topic - next topic

Got some bad rust

:mad:  Im gonna start doing some body work (or have somebody do it) and since i dont know much about it i figured i would ask you guys. My car's got some pretty bad rust on it, the front end and frame is fine, but the sideskirts beneath the doors are a few millimeters from being completely rusted through on both sides, and behind the rear tires ( where the spare on on the drivers side, and same position on the passenger side) are completley rusted through creating giant holes. Now my question is, What would be the best way to fix that?
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Got some bad rust

Reply #1 –
Some more...
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Got some bad rust

Reply #2 –
New (to you) doors, new (to you) fenders (I can almost guarantee you that driver's fender has already had work done to it - the bottom of it isn't shaped right), and new metal in the quarters and rockers would be the easiest and only proper way to fix it. That rust is 10X worse than it looks - as soon as you start removing paint you'll find that the paint was the only thing holding much of it together. I've been there - my '87 Sport looked much like that, which is why I had to sell it and get a rust free '88.

Before making any serious plans I'd recommend putting the car on a lift and giving the frame and floors a really good going over. Take a screwdriver with you, and poke everything that looks soft. Be especially vigilant in the front subframe and strut tower areas, and the part of the rear frame that goes over the rear axle and the gas tank hangers. Take a look at daminc's "Project evolution" thread, and ask yourself if you're prepared to do (or even capable of doing) the same work, because sadly, that's what your car is going to need. If you don't think you could do the work yourself, don't even think of paying somebody because you'd easily be looking at $5k in bodywork.

Might be time to start thinking about another one. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - like I said, I've been there myself.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Got some bad rust

Reply #3 –
Thats what i figured ive been underneath the car with a ser and screwdriver, and the frame and subframe are strong, didnt even have much surface rust surprisingly, (before oil pan gasket was replaced, im guessing the leaked oil that was blown all over the frame and bottom of the car may have saved that part) as far as replacing the fenders, ive done it before and its easy enough,  i can get free sheet metal for the rear but i cant weld.... thats really where im stuck.
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Got some bad rust

Reply #4 –
It's easy enough to learn to mig weld. You could learn by the end of a weekend if you had to. But the price of a decent mig welding setup would cost the same as a replacement car. My welding setup cost about $1200. including helmet, cart, gas cylinder, extra welding tips, etc.

Your quarter panels would need to be replaced, or partially like I did. and probably your rockers
And.....
Unfortunately, the more you take apart, the more your going to find to replace.
I'm fortunate to have had the experience to rebuild other cars and a ford van, before tackling my cougar, which is probably the worst car I've ever seen. And I've seen a lot of bad cars.
There's nothing that says you can't or shouldn't rebuild your car, but remember, there's going to be a lot of work before you even get to rebuilding the body its self.
If you decide to go for it, feel free to ask me any questions. I'll help you in any way I can.

Jerry
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

Got some bad rust

Reply #5 –
Well at the shop where i work we have an electric welder, ( arc welder??) helmet, and all that other stuff, im gonna try to learn how to weld and i am gonna go for it, i went through to much trouble to get this car (including constant nagging from the wife:punchballs: thats worse than anything ) to let rust get in the way. I appreciate the offer for the help, as im sure i will need it.
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Got some bad rust

Reply #6 –
An arc welder won't work unless it has a stitch welding attachment or spot attachment.
If you use a Mig. You need to use .023 wire with the argon gas mix , or you'll burn through sheet metal.

Either way, learning to weld can't hurt your list of things that you can do.
let us know how things go.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1
 

Got some bad rust

Reply #7 –
What is a stitch welding attachment?
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Got some bad rust

Reply #8 –
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1187&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=stitch+welder

This will give you an idea.
I've heard good and bad about them. Most say it can't replace a MIG, and it doesn't do the same job. But I never used one, so I couldn't tell you.


Do you have any bigger close up pics of the rust on your car?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

Got some bad rust

Reply #9 –
Thats sorta what the welder at my shop looks like, and no i dont, those pics i posted were the ones that were taken from the lady i bought it from. I dont have a camera yet. What were you wanting to look at? Maybe i could explain it to you
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Got some bad rust

Reply #10 –
I was just wondering what it looked like where the 1/4 panel meets the rocker, and the floor condition where it meets the rocker
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

Got some bad rust

Reply #11 –
well i know that most of the rust is on the side of the car (except for the rear quarter where the spare goes) the floor is strong, there are no soft spots in it
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Got some bad rust

Reply #12 –
Looks real bad man,if your not skilled like my man jerry no body shop in your general area will even want to touch that.
If they did the price would be outrageous.
You can pickup another coug in much nicer shape for less than a good paintjob these days.
Might be your best bet.

Got some bad rust

Reply #13 –
Quote from: dominator;249389
no body shop in your general area will even want to touch that.
If they did the price would be outrageous.


As an example, the price just to fix both quarter panels on my car, would have been around 4-5 grand. If I had someone do my entire car, I would have to bet on about 15-20 grand. Paint included.
To do it myself, I've spent about $1500 including the parts bird. That includes all my motor upgrades, doors, hood, quarters, fenders, mods, interior upgrades, SFCs, Turbine wheels, and everything Chuck has to offer for our cars.
When I'm done, I should have a almost a fully optioned XR7. With a HO motor.
It's gonna be a tank.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

Got some bad rust

Reply #14 –
Quote
When I'm done, I should have a almost a fully optioned XR7. With a HO motor.
It's gonna be a tank.


Its coming out great too man. Im still debating on what to do...Im thinking maybe ill find a good body and make like a 20th anny clone lol
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII