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Topic: Oil?????????????????? (Read 10742 times) previous topic - next topic

Oil??????????????????

Ok. On at least one other Forum I'm on there has been a LOT of discussion about the removal of ZDDP from motor oil, and it's hazards to flat tappet cams (hydraulic or solid), but I don't recall seeing anything about that on here.

I'm thinking of ordering up a case of Amsoil Premium Protection, which is supposed to have about 1300ppm ZDDP in it. Also, they claim you can go 25,000 between changes. Then there is the ZDDP that Eastwoods sells.

You guys have any thoughts on the matter?
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Oil??????????????????

Reply #1 –
I might be wrong on this but think you only need that for engine break-in. if no one helps you here ask your machine shop.
As for changing you oil synthetics don’t break down like dinos but they still get dirty. So change your filter and my personal opinion 25,000 is way to long. Oil still gets gas in it and know matter how many times you change the filter Nothing is better than just pulling the plug and getting all the contaminants on the bottom of the pan out.

Oil??????????????????

Reply #2 –
I use Mobil 1 and wouldn't use anything else.I also use a Mobil 1 filter.I change oil every 5000 miles.Perhaps people run their cars longer between oil changes,but I like 5000 as a comfort measure.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Oil??????????????????

Reply #3 –
mobil 1 in everything i own incl the mowers, 4 wheeler,vtx,
snowmobile and even the weedeater.

Oil??????????????????

Reply #4 –
I figured if it's good enough and trusted enough for Vipers,Vettes,Ferraris,Porsche,etc,then it should be good enough for my old Bird.LOL.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Oil??????????????????

Reply #5 –
Mobil 1 in everything I own here too.
Mainly, there's not a lot of choice. 25 years ago I used kendall and bought it by the case. (in cans)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Oil??????????????????

Reply #6 –
Rotella oil has a high zinc content. 

As far as Mobil1.....I run it in the Stang.  Royal Purple in the Cougar.

FWIW Mobil1 is not a true synthetic oil....
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Oil??????????????????

Reply #7 –
Mobil 1 has been a lie? I'm going with the cheapest Autozone brand I can find from now on.LOL (Just kidding !!!!).
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Oil??????????????????

Reply #8 –
Quote from: Turbo 88;243074
but I don't recall seeing anything about that on here.

?


recall???  you just joined:hick:

yes, its been talked about pudy well.  I just happend to recall the thread and inserted "zddp" into the advanced search and found it again......
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=18857&highlight=zddp




I run rotella until its found that zddp is eliminated from the mix.
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Oil??????????????????

Reply #9 –
It's a Group III base stock which in Europe and puppiesan are not considered true sythetics.  At one time a few years ago; it WAS a Group IV stock and therefore what is considered a true synthetic.  The cost factor has changed that.  I'm just being technical is all.  It IS still an excellent product.

Also FWIW Mobil1 makes the best oil filters on the market right now IMHO...

Believe it or not Wikipedia actually has some accurate info on this: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil#Synthetic_Base_Stocks

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

I had a link to an excellent article that described the 5 different base stocks in a decent amount of detail, but I can't find it. 

Check this little item out:

Quote
In July 1996, Consumer Reports published the results of a two year motor oil test involving a fleet of 75 New York taxi cabs and found no noticeable advantage of synthetic oil over regular oil[3]. In their article, they noted that "Big-city cabs don't see many cold start-ups or long periods of high speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most common type of severe service - stop-and-go city driving." According to their study, synthetic oil is "worth considering for extreme driving conditions: high ambient temperatures and high engine load, or very cold temperatures." [4] This research was criticized by some because most engine damage appears to be caused by cold starts, and their research method may not have included enough cold starts to be representative of personal vehicle use.[5]


Consumer Reports -- Skewing test procedures since 1933

The Royal Purple in my Cougar does MUCH better on a hot July day than did even the Valvoline synthetic blend I used to run.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Oil??????????????????

Reply #10 –
I ran regular stuff in my T-bird for the break in period on the new engine. Since then it's been Mobil1 and a Motorcraft filter every 3000 miles, sort of. I've only put 2500 miles on the engine in two years but I've changed it twice already ;)

Paul do you think I would get any advantage/increase in protection running Royal Purple in my 306 instead of the Mobil1 I've been running? I run 10W30 in it btw.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Oil??????????????????

Reply #11 –
***Sigh****

I spent an hour typing out what I believed was an organized and well put together post and then closed the window by accident.  I'm not typing it again.  I'll summarize.

Here's a good read:  http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1227331


As far as the zinc -- From what I understand Rotella still has zinc albeit in a slightly reduced amount.

Royal purple now has a break in oil with zinc.

The XPR version of RP is not for engines under warantee.  I've heard it's for short uses in racing applications only.  For a car you use on the street use the regular Royal Purple

http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Oil??????????????????

Reply #12 –
Yes, the Amsoil premium protection motor oil has a high zinc content. With a flat tappet cam you need zinc as a lubricant for the cam.
2 88 TC's (1 is the 2.3t race car, other v8 maybe?)
06 dodge dakota 4.7 v8
79 chevy k-10, built 350/turbo 350
Diverse ain't I?
AMSOIL Dealer

Oil??????????????????

Reply #13 –
One of the other Forums I'm on has had a lot of discussion and what seems like good information.

Seems the only Rotella that should be used is the Rotella T Triple protection. Amsoil "Premium Protection" seems to have both the highest levels of ZDDP AND change cycles, as upposed to the Valvoline VR-1 off road, which is supposed to be changed every 500 miles.

I said "recall" because I glanced over all the posts to see if this had been covered.

If anyone is interested, they can read this thread:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=41397
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
 

Oil??????????????????

Reply #14 –
Quote from: V8Demon;243178
***Sigh****

I spent an hour typing out what I believed was an organized and well put together post and then closed the window by accident.  I'm not typing it again.  I'll summarize.

Here's a good read:  http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1227331


As far as the zinc -- From what I understand Rotella still has zinc albeit in a slightly reduced amount.

Royal purple now has a break in oil with zinc.

The XPR version of RP is not for engines under warantee.  I've heard it's for short uses in racing applications only.  For a car you use on the street use the regular Royal Purple

http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html


Sooooo just try regular Royal Purple and see how I like it? ;)
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.