5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Topic: 5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe (Read 17063 times) previous topic - next topic

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #45 – November 03, 2009, 07:26:38 PM

I did mine with the shorties, dunno with long tubes...

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #46 – November 06, 2009, 07:10:50 PM

Quote from: TurboCoupe50;297485

I did mine with the shorties, dunno with long tubes...

There's a guy near me who has a "Stang shop." He frequents a Stang-specific forum I hang out on from time, to time. He said that he's done tons of installs the way I'm thinking about doing it (with LT's and tranny bolted up). Hopefully I'll have luck doing it that way. We'll see.

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #47 – November 06, 2009, 07:13:57 PM

Here it is. I installed the oil pressure sender and it's extension today. After that was done, I topped it off with oil. Tomorrow, I'll prelube it and check for any problems.

It's just about ready to drop in!

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #48 – November 06, 2009, 10:40:01 PM

She's beautiful

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #49 – November 07, 2009, 07:53:27 AM

I want to touch it........the engine.

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #50 – November 07, 2009, 09:06:23 AM

Nice!!!

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #51 – November 07, 2009, 12:56:52 PM

Quote from: vinnietbird;297907

I want to touch it........the engine.

SICKO!!!

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #52 – November 07, 2009, 01:07:53 PM

Thanks for all the nice words guys. I hope this thing pulls as hard as I'm hoping it will. I think using a custom converter that flashes to 3200 RPM's and a Silverfox valve body is gonna play a huge role.

On a different note, I'm gonna be using different valve covers. I gave the sheet metal ones you see in the pics a try, but true to form, they just don't want to seal. I checked them before I installed them and they seemed straight, but I'd say they're not straight enough. I could make these sheet metal valve covers seal with RTV, but I don't want to go in that direction. There's a much easier way.

I'm currently on the hunt for some cast aluminum, stock, 5.0 valve covers. They'll obviously be much easier to get to seal. I absolutely hate leaks of any kind! It's like walking around bleeding all over the place!!! I like to use rubber valve cover gaskets, because you can remove your valve covers without having to deal with the mess of RTV.

Well...

Reply #53 – November 08, 2009, 12:40:03 AM

I pre lubed my engine today. I had good oil flowing out of my rockers and I didn't even need to use a drill to do it. I used a 1/4" ratchet and extension.

As soon as I get the aluminum valve covers and install them, the engine and tranny will be ready to be installed in the Blackbird.

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #54 – November 08, 2009, 08:26:19 AM

I can't keep up with you.You're doing great work.After today,'ll be done for a while until I get my brackets how I want them,and get the a/c compressor detailed and find a steering pump (I need a ped out pump to swap to Autozone for a new one).I'm installing factory aluminum Stang covers to keep the engine sealed.They are only temporary.I painted them Blue to match the engine.I may use my finned aluminum Cobra valve covers that are on the current engine in the car.I've been looking for something a little different.I said before,I wish there were finned aluminum covers with "Thunderbird" on them.Keep us posted.I love this stuff.

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #55 – November 08, 2009, 10:48:32 AM

Quote from: 88 Blackbird 5.0;297932

I could make these sheet metal valve covers seal with RTV, but I don't want to go in that direction.
I like to use rubber valve cover gaskets, because you can remove your valve covers without having to deal with the mess of RTV.

88 Blackbird 5.0; If you were to use the Permatex Ultra-Blue and run a full uninterupted 1/4" bead and let them cure, you can remove them several times without fear of leaks or failure. I used to have a 69' 429 in a pinto wagon (everyone can stop laughing now) and I used that on my valve covers without any problems ever. As I had a solid roller cam in it, I had to remove the covers for regular adjustments. They were still on the car when I sold it and didn't leak. Just my .02 :D

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #56 – November 08, 2009, 08:32:43 PM

Quote from: vinnietbird;298029

I can't keep up with you.You're doing great work.After today,'ll be done for a while until I get my brackets how I want them,and get the a/c compressor detailed and find a steering pump (I need a ped out pump to swap to Autozone for a new one).I'm installing factory aluminum Stang covers to keep the engine sealed.They are only temporary.I painted them Blue to match the engine.I may use my finned aluminum Cobra valve covers that are on the current engine in the car.I've been looking for something a little different.I said before,I wish there were finned aluminum covers with "Thunderbird" on them.Keep us posted.I love this stuff.

That would be nice if they made valve covers like that. That's ok though. One of the reasons why I love Birds so much, is the fact that they aren't nearly as common as Mustangs.

It looks like you're making some great progress yourself there. You'll have that thing ready to drop in the car in no time! :)

Running for all these small parts will drive you nuts. I know what you're going through.

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #57 – November 08, 2009, 08:33:58 PM

Quote from: 1BadBird;298038

88 Blackbird 5.0; If you were to use the Permatex Ultra-Blue and run a full uninterupted 1/4" bead and let them cure, you can remove them several times without fear of leaks or failure. I used to have a 69' 429 in a pinto wagon (everyone can stop laughing now) and I used that on my valve covers without any problems ever. As I had a solid roller cam in it, I had to remove the covers for regular adjustments. They were still on the car when I sold it and didn't leak. Just my .02 :D

Thanks for the advice there, but I'm a big fan of not using any more RTV than I have to. I'm just gonna get some stock, aluminum 5.0 valve covers and call it a day.

Well...

Reply #58 – November 11, 2009, 09:33:00 PM

Over the past few days, I've gotten a lot of work done on the Blackbird. I dropped the engine and tranny in as a unit, but had to leave the passenger side long tube header off the engine to get everything in. After the engine and tranny were in, all I had to do was remove the starter and jack the engine up a few inches. That allowed me to drop that passenger side header into place and bolt it up to the engine.

I'm impressed with the fit of these Mac headers. They don't sit very low at all. I did have to cut the retaining ring off my driver's side motor mount, because it was in the way of one of the header's primaries on that side of the engine.

Without any real difficulty, I was able to install the steering shaft right through the primaries. The top of the collector sockets are too close to the floor pan, so I'm gonna have to do some clearance work there.

I installed the A/C compressor on the engine today and installed the H-pipe. One thing I'm wondering about though, is how the starter cable is supposed to be routed on these cars from the driver's side of the engine compartment over to the passenger side. Also, can anyone tell me how the wire for the low oil sensor is routed?

I've been taking plenty of pics and will have those posted here soon. Man! I'm having fun with this! :D

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #59 – November 12, 2009, 02:05:41 AM

I can get a coupla pics of how the wire goes in the morning for ya :D
There's a bracket (maybe 2) that bolt to the oil pan that hold it up and away from stuff.

PS, I have engine envy lol. That sucker is NICE!

I wish I'd have super dooper cleaned mine and painted it...ahh well, it WILL get done in the spring!