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Topic: Having Trouble Getting car to run. (Read 931 times) previous topic - next topic

Having Trouble Getting car to run.

Well i am tryin to get my 86 cougar back on the road.  its sat for a bit and i took the dist cap and wires and plugs out... well i put plugs wires and dist cap back in.  just tryin to figure out where each plug wire goes.  I have been using this as a reference http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations/bl422lib.htm

when i stick my finger in the passenger bank first cyl (number 1) and have the starter bumped.  i apply pressure with my finger and when it shoots out i should be at TDC or quite close to it... then i look at the crank and timing pointer.  and i move the crank to where the line with a hole under it lines up with the edge of the pointer towards center.  The Rotor points to where the number 5 cyl is on that website.  i dunno if im 180 off or what.

Well first time i hooked up plugs i went CLOCKWISE on dizzy... it resulted in ALOT of back fire and... little fires from ether and gasoline.  after tryining exactly as it showed on that link i checked rotor while i had it at TDC with my method and timing mark lined up.  rotor pointed to cyl 5 on the dizzy.  when i crank i do not get ANY back fire whats so ever.  i did get a couple lil coughs from the engine to run.  but by this time the battery has died and its recharging.


Anyone have any idea's or possible pictures of proper timing mark line up? im rattling my brain here.  Please help

Having Trouble Getting car to run.

Reply #1 –
your firing order is correct on the site
your rotation is correct on the site.


I cant make heads or tails about what your talking about on the
"the line with a hole under it lines up with the edge of the pointer towards center"

You are simply bumping the motor over to get the compression stroke started on cyl 1 which is good.

you should then rotate the crank by hand in the same direction the engine runs until the harmonic balancer "0" is directly under the pointer.  Ignore the round hole thing,, that hole part of the pointer is for another ford shop tool.


SO,, line up the crank harmonic "0"  , aka TDC and then check with a small screw driver that your piston is infact on top.

To make double sure you are on the compression stroke,, this means both the intake and compression valves are closed.

To check,, stuff a hose up in the spark plug hole good - n - tight.
Blow into the hose
If you can not blow easily any air in, both valves are closed and you are on compression stroke number 1 cyl at "0" deg TDC.


Now install your rotor button.
Eyeball your distributor cap and kinda lay it on but see if the pointer is going to line up with the number one spark plug post on the cap.

If it is 180 out,, something is hosed,, perhaps you pulled the distributor and forgot to mention it.

If its close,, all this means is that the lock bolt at the base is just not eggzzzactly lined up but good nuff for now.
Now you can snap on number 1 plug wire, then proceed with the next plug wire CCW and connect each end one at a time. Proceed in a CCW direction on your cap with the remaining plug wires and connect to each respective cylinder.
Dont listen to anyone that says the rotor button needs to point to number 1 piston when you are on number 1 TDC.,,,stupid advise and Ive heard it many times.


Its easier if you remove the valve cover and visually verify number one valves are closed. by means of checking the pushrods are free to spin and both rockers look like thay are not busy doing something ,,ie- pushing down on a valve spring.

What reasons brought you to the project you are working on now?


BTW,, next time mention what motor you have.

Having Trouble Getting car to run.

Reply #2 –
sorry about that... ive been up for wayt oo long lol.  it is resolved its running now.  I do appreciate the response.  it does help... the hole i was refering to was on the crank..  there is a line on the edge that when turned will line up with pointer.  All is well in the fact that it fires up now.


The reason im just tryin to get it going is my other vehicles a 93 mitsubishi eclipse gsx... ignition switch went out on me 30-40 miles away at work... so i had to hot wire it to get it home.  its gonna cost more money for me to get it tagged, ins, tittle transfered and fixed than it would be for getting the cougar up and going.  I am workin on tryin to get both vehicles up to par.  My next issue involved interior lights and gauge cluster... all i gotta do is find my EVTM that you sent me and i should be able to resolve that as well. but im going to look for that before posting.



 Thanks again for the help,
                      Eric
 

Having Trouble Getting car to run.

Reply #3 –
for the evtm

go to electrcal tech and look for an EVTM sticky:D

Having Trouble Getting car to run.

Reply #4 –
i found my cd lol and i figured out what the issue was... NO FUSES lmmfao..  missing a 20amp circuit breaker... for slot 10  a 4 amp for 16 but i dont think i need that one and 2 amp for 17 but its got a 20 amp in its place atm.  then im missing a 5 amp for 13 which explains why i dont have backlights on dash atm lol  ive replaced the rest of the fuses according to the evtm

Having Trouble Getting car to run.

Reply #5 –
well she is alive she runs and she is legal :-D