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Topic: Cruise Control (Read 3875 times) previous topic - next topic

Cruise Control

I am going to delve into the world of the :ford: Thunderbird tomorrow.  I am purchasing a '87 Thunderbird (base model).  The seller informs me that the cruise control does not work. He related the following: "What it does is when you set the cruise it just speeds up and never tops off, until you either shut it off or tap the brake."  So, with this bit of knowledge, can anyone tell me where I should start to look for the problem once I get my hands on the car.

Thanks
1987 Ford Thunderbird Base model 3.8l  Bone stock.  Trying to get it to perform the best it can.  Wanted:  Nice set of 4 bolt wheels.

Cruise Control

Reply #1
I have no clue, but I'll welcome you aboard.
You'll get an answer shortly
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
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Cruise Control

Reply #2
check the connections at the amplifier by your left foot.  It may not be getting a signal from the VSS making it think it never reaches the proper speed.
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

 

Cruise Control

Reply #3
oh yeah....  welcome to the board!  lol
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Cruise Control

Reply #4
Also, the off button works (meaning electrical is probably ok) and the vacuum release valve at the pedal works.  Perhaps the servo is bad...?
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Cruise Control

Reply #5
Thanks for the quick responses and welcome.  I will tackle it this weekend.  I am glad I found this forum.
1987 Ford Thunderbird Base model 3.8l  Bone stock.  Trying to get it to perform the best it can.  Wanted:  Nice set of 4 bolt wheels.

Cruise Control

Reply #6
Sounds like the Set/Accelerate switch is stuck.

Cruise Control

Reply #7
Quote from: softtouch;224528
Sounds like the Set/Accelerate switch is stuck.


I drove it home tonight after buying it and gave it a test run.  When you hit the set/accelerate button all it does is accelerate.  Is this a button issue or something deeper?  Thoughts?
1987 Ford Thunderbird Base model 3.8l  Bone stock.  Trying to get it to perform the best it can.  Wanted:  Nice set of 4 bolt wheels.

Cruise Control

Reply #8
I'd tend to think if the button doesn't appear stuck down (does it?), it probably isn't, just because I've studied the construction of the actual button mechanism.  Unless the plastic cover is physically pushing it down, it would pop up and lose contact.  You could always borrow a puller from autozone and pull the wheel (5 min) and remove the buttons to test the continuity...

I had a similar problem a couple years ago only mine wouldn't turn off with the pedal OR the button.  Even after killing the ignition (once the car reached 120+ overpowering my brakes) it still held and revved the engine to max.  That was a bit dangerous.  LOL  My problem was the cable sleeve seperate from the servo housing and the cable just got stuck.  But checking all the mechanical connections couldn't hurt, I guess
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Cruise Control

Reply #9
Quote from: booksix;224659
I'd tend to think if the button doesn't appear stuck down (does it?), it probably isn't, just because I've studied the construction of the actual button mechanism.  Unless the plastic cover is physically pushing it down, it would pop up and lose contact.  You could always borrow a puller from autozone and pull the wheel (5 min) and remove the buttons to test the continuity...

I had a similar problem a couple years ago only mine wouldn't turn off with the pedal OR the button.  Even after killing the ignition (once the car reached 120+ overpowering my brakes) it still held and revved the engine to max.  That was a bit dangerous.  LOL  My problem was the cable sleeve seperate from the servo housing and the cable just got stuck.  But checking all the mechanical connections couldn't hurt, I guess



Wow, that had to be a crazy ride. I will check all the cable/cable connections from the servo housing.  It may be the servo, I don't know.  I hate to drop money on one and still not have the problem fixed.
1987 Ford Thunderbird Base model 3.8l  Bone stock.  Trying to get it to perform the best it can.  Wanted:  Nice set of 4 bolt wheels.

Cruise Control

Reply #10
If the set/accelerate was stuck I think it would start to accelerate as soon as you turned cruise on. You wouldn't have to push the set/accel button. Sounds like a VSS problem.
Does the speedometer work ok?

Cruise Control

Reply #11
Quote from: softtouch;224723
If the set/accelerate was stuck I think it would start to accelerate as soon as you turned cruise on. You wouldn't have to push the set/accel button. Sounds like a VSS problem.
Does the speedometer work ok?


The speedometer works fine.  What is VSS?  Is that a speed sensor?  Where is that located?
1987 Ford Thunderbird Base model 3.8l  Bone stock.  Trying to get it to perform the best it can.  Wanted:  Nice set of 4 bolt wheels.

Cruise Control

Reply #12
Vehicle Speed Sensor.  If it's a C5, it'll be on the driver's side close to the tail shaft of the tranny. 
 
The wiring comes through the 'hump' below the console, and there's a connector right behind the ash-tray/radio/junk collector box.  It goes up to the speedo, then splits off and heads for the ECM and cruise control.  The VSS in these old 'Birds is strictly a magnetic one, and has no excitation like newer VSS pickups.  The conditioning of the signal is done at the other end(s).  If your speedo is working, chances are it's a broken wire (between the speedo and CC), corroded connector at the Cruise Control amplifier, or possibly a dead input on the amplifier.
:birdsmily:
(X2) '86 Thunderbird, 3.8L CFI, C5 Tranny
 
'92 F-150, 5.0L EFI (SD), M5OD Tranny, 3.08 Dif
 
'70 VW Beetle, 1780cc, twin Solex 43's.

Cruise Control

Reply #13
Quote from: Old_Paint;224767
Vehicle Speed Sensor.  If it's a C5, it'll be on the driver's side close to the tail shaft of the tranny. 
 
The wiring comes through the 'hump' below the console, and there's a connector right behind the ash-tray/radio/junk collector box.  It goes up to the speedo, then splits off and heads for the ECM and cruise control.  The VSS in these old 'Birds is strictly a magnetic one, and has no excitation like newer VSS pickups.  The conditioning of the signal is done at the other end(s).  If your speedo is working, chances are it's a broken wire (between the speedo and CC), corroded connector at the Cruise Control amplifier, or possibly a dead input on the amplifier.


Thanks for the advice.  I will check these areas out.  All new territory for me, but hell, you got to learn somehow.  I will post results, good or bad, as I go along.
1987 Ford Thunderbird Base model 3.8l  Bone stock.  Trying to get it to perform the best it can.  Wanted:  Nice set of 4 bolt wheels.

Cruise Control

Reply #14
you dont have to pull the steering wheel to remove the buttons and harness.