Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: I tried over on the linc site Need help (Read 2346 times) previous topic - next topic

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Well a few days ago my fathers 88 LSC started fine on the way out of his house... After stopping for gas the car wouldnt start so he got a jump and was on his way. The next few times he tried starting the car if it was cold the car started right up if its warm it turns over real slow kinda like the battery is real low and eventually will not start. I replaced his altenator, battery and ignition module which i guess is the TFI not the ignition module ( Battery and Altenator both tested bad). Now cold it starts right up no problem and with the new parts once it warms up it turns over alot more before starting up??? It doesnt turn over real slow but just takes alot longer to start the car??? ANy ideas and help would be appreciated...


Ok next problem he was driving today and pulled into a gas station and car stalled and would not start back up just turned over real slow.... He let it cool down a little and tried starting it again and it turned over real slow and than kicked in started??? This is driving me crazy.Any ideas on to what it could be he thinks starter is getting too hot thats why its not starting but that would not caus it to stall???????????


Chris
:ford::oldcougar::mercury:

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #1 –
Turning over slow when hot is usually a sign of a bad starter...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #2 –
Stalling, on the other hand, could be any of a million things. Fuel pressure OK? IAC and TPS working properly? When the TPS went bad on my T-Bird the thing would stall when it was shifted into gear. Always started right back up, though, but my starter was OK ;)
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;215088
Stalling, on the other hand, could be any of a million things. Fuel pressure OK? IAC and TPS working properly? When the TPS went bad on my T-Bird the thing would stall when it was shifted into gear. Always started right back up, though, but my starter was OK ;)


The probem seems to be only when the car is warm??? cold it seems to start right up once warm it takes alot more turning over tp start it up. We thought the starter as well due to the slow turning over but the stalling is a mystery to me. This all started last wednesday?ONce it stalls it dont want to start back up once it cools a bit it evetually starts after turning over real slow it kicks in and starts??? Im baffled.
:ford::oldcougar::mercury:

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #4 –
It's common for starters with worn end bushings to "drag" when hot... Repl it and fix your problem...

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #5 –
yeah but what about stalling???
:ford::oldcougar::mercury:

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #6 –
It sounds like you have a power or ground issue that gets worse with heat (resistance increases with temperature).

As the car heats up, some resistance is increasing to a point where your system voltage starts to drop to a point where the car won't run.  Inspect the positive cable from the battery all the way to the engine.  Make sure everything is tight with no corrosion.  Also check the negative battery cable from the battery to the engine block.  I would remove it from the block and clean it and re-bolt it down.

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #7 –
Ok got some new information went to look at car today and talk to my father. The car stalled when he pulled up to the gas pump and he thinks he just ran out of gas (he usually never lets it get that low). But I did notice something I didnt know before if you start it when its cold starts right up with no problem. Once car gets warm still seems to still be fine BUT once you take it out of gear and put it back into park it idles real real low and wants to stall (which it has done once or twice on him) which then leads to the slow starting but im pretty sure his starter has bit it so thats gonna be taken care of. WHy would car run like  once warmed up only after taken out of park and put back into park?? I hope im explaining it correct. I also got a code reader and here is the codes I pulled which the book dont really help finding out why or what. They need to dummy it up some more and just say this or that needs to be changed.

Key on Engine off
code:
14
34

Key on Engine running
code:

12
13
21
22
34
44
94

P.S. I just got a call from my father andall three times he stopped and put it in park it stalled? It started right back up but it stalled none th less. Im hoping someone will let me know what the codes mean.

Chris
:ford::oldcougar::mercury:

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #8 –
tune your tps sensor. If you dont know what that is, do a search.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #9 –
14  Ignition pickup was erratic
E4OD Transmission diesel RPM sensor
 34  EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test EVR - (O, R, M) 


12  Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too lowEVP sensor is/was high PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range
 13  (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO)
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking
 21  Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range
 34  EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range
 22  MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range
 44  AIR system inoperative
 94  AIR system inoperative
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem

http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/2digit.html
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #10 –
Did you do the test hot, a cold engine will give codes...

AND what order were they originally registered??? ALWAYS fix the first code then retest...

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #11 –
yes the engine was hot when tested. on the first two with engine off 34 came up first than the 14.

on the 2nd test with engine running this is the order
22,94,44,34 again,13,12,21
:ford::oldcougar::mercury:

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #12 –
Still sounds like a system voltage problem.  Check your grounds.

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #13 –
yeah thats what i was going to do. I also got some advice to maybe change the TPS... I dunno I need to get it fixed soon.
:ford::oldcougar::mercury:

I tried over on the linc site Need help

Reply #14 –
Not a bad idea to check grounds... Then fix the 21(temp sensor) and retest... Forget the TPS you have no code for that...

Anybody know how the Hell it can give a 14 on a KOEO??? Erratic ignition??? It friggin ain't running...

The 34 on the KOEO likely ain't a big deal... Probably more older 5.0s have that one than any other, repl the position sensor on the EGR valve if it worries you......