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Topic: 87 3.8L stalling in warm weather (Read 1225 times) previous topic - next topic

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

The temperature was in the 60's today, and my Tbird was idling very rough at stoplights, and stalling when I tried to get going. It's been fine in the cold weather, and did this a few months ago when it was in the 50's.

This happens AFTER it's been on the highway for an hour or so, not right away, and only in warm weather.

I'm leaning towards something electrical that's malfunctioning after overheating... pretty sure fuel is fine (doesn't seem to lack power at speed on the highway)

Anyone got any ideas where to start?

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #1
does it gradually lose power before it dies or just stop all together?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #2
Doesn't seem to lose power gradually. I only notice after coming to a stop from highway driving.

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #3
does it make any weird metallic noises after the motor heats up?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #4
Personally, I'd start by:

1)  Pull the engine codes

If none then:
1)  Check cap and rotor to see if poles are clean inside cap and rotor blade look OK.  Per shop manual rotor blade except for tip is supposed to be siliconed -- I'm still not sure whether this is a great idea -- see my last post titled Intermittent Check Light
2)  Re-silicon the inside of all the wire boots both at the cap and on the plugs.
3)  Pull the TFI and re-silicon.

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #5
Sounds alot like a bad ignition module. Could be a failing coil as well.
Ignition modules tend to act stupid when they get old and hot.

Remove it, clean the back and the mount on the distributor.  Put some silicone grease and screw it back down.  Its easiest to remove the distributor during this. 

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/d1/45/0900823d8014d145/repairInfoPages.htm

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #6
Quote from: danzajax;207682
.  Its easiest to remove the distro during this. 


Dude, your nuckin futzzzz.  Why would you even suggest this? especially on the CFI 3.8? Whats a DISTRO anyway?  Why did you say "radiator?  None of our cars 88 and down got the TFI module mounted on the radiator.  Heck, why not mention the TFI module on the innner portion of the driver fender well,, thats where lots of pickups got the TFI installed. 

A deep well 7/32 socket will fit nice up in the ignition module holes to remove and add ***NO-OX-ID*** conductive compound.  Simply find a 7/32 socket and grind the wall down if need be so it fits up in the hole.  Mark the base of the distributor to the timing cover with a marker and losen the hold down.  Rotate the distributor if need be so you can get to each bolt but usually on the 3.8, the bolt holes are easy  to get to, unlike the 5.0 / 5.8.

I have plenty of ideas but if you want to catch up on the perticulars of the 87 CFI 3.8, you better read up on it at my diy link and such. 

BASIC CHECKS TO GET YOU STARTED

What is your fuel presure at idle and while reving
what color is your spark at any random spark plug (nice and Blue/white?
Pull your ACT sensor and clean it off with brake cleaner.
When did you last change your CFI base plate gaskets?
Can you put suction on your EGR vac line and have the EGR hold VAC for longer than a couple minutes?
How about your guilt factor with relation to a good tune up? plugs, wires, cap,rotor, fuel filter (all not too expensive either)

The list goes on and on but pull codes first.  If your not mechanically inclined or you would like to learn this engine better then your at the right place.
Dont shot gun the problem, if there is a problem, and you have no codes, then come back and let us know.

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #7
Because i haven't owned a CFI engine.  I just know how to do it on a 5.0.  I assumed it would have the same kinda clearance issues.  I know that the ignition module was relocated on some models.  I don't know which ones.

Besides, getting the distributor (happy?) out is really easy.  Remove the cap, mark the position, unbolt the retainer, and pull it out.  Its not totally insane, the only real tools you need is a 20$ timing light from harbor freight.

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #8
So anyway, Lets see what codes come up before we go yankin anything out.
BTW. if you need help to get the codes, the links on jcassity's sig will help you through the process.
If you still need help to get the codes we'll help you out
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #9
Don't forget the stator in the distributor. My 95 was doing the same thing when it went.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

 

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #10
OK, the problem came back today. I'm having trouble following the link on jcassity's sig to get the codes... it just kinda confuses me. And I've never seen my car's check engine light come on. Maybe the bulb is burned out?

But the problem is definitely heat-related, since it acted up last monday when it was 60 degrees, then was fine when it was in the 30's for the past week,and now it's acting up again today (high 40/low 50s).

Also, if it's moving, it's fine. It only seems to act up at a stoplight when it sits for a couple minutes. If I get off the highway, come to a complete stop, and immediately go, it's fine.

87 3.8L stalling in warm weather

Reply #11
I dont know how much more self explanatory this could be

[COLOR="Red"]Diagnostic testing with codes 3 step method

**For more detailed info and other options to pulling codes, visit the Tech library at therangerstation.com.  Scroll down on the left and click on EEC-IV Diagnostics under the "computer" section.[/COLOR]

did you go there?

Its not my info, i copied most of that directly from thier site.

below,,,
hook your stuff up like below. incase you dont have a test light, rig up a small bulb / socket with two wires dangling and plug it up like shown.