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Topic: Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at? (Read 2184 times) previous topic - next topic

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Is there ANY reason that my exhaust midpipe/headers would hit my column shift linkage under easing into the brakes, or backing out of my driveway as the front wheels roll down the shoulder (pretty steep shoulder)?
 
I dont know how others have fared but the lower stud on my driver's side  was RIGHT up against the linkage. I was so angry back when I did the H.O. conversion and ran into this. Solution? Undo the linkage, basically CUT OFF an entire "side" of the nut that had to go on that stud :hick: :mad: . Then put the linkage back together. More recently I took the linkage shaft out and cut out like half the thickness, about 1" wide, with a bench grinder and now finally theres maybe 1/8" or more gap.
 
I started to hear this pop/clunk actually before the H.O. conversion and simulatneous exhaust system change. I just want to make sure that I'm being silly for thinking this is what the problem is. NOTE: I can feel this through the floor/pedal somewhat too. I had a trusted shop once check out the suspension, he "put a pry bar on EVERYthing and tugged real hard and everything held fast".
 
So what to make of this? More importantly what tests can I do, or is it likely he did em all? I keep leaning toward control arm bushing, I've heard others mention loose K-Member bolts in I think jcassity's thread. How can I check for these? Didn't he have someone watch the control arm as he went from reverse to forward etc? Does it really move enough to notice if the bushings are well worn-out? Wouldn't that mechanic have spotted this? No? I hope it's clear that I'm not well versed in this area of the running gear and have no idea what to look for.
 
This pop happens probably 5 times including exiting the driveway on a typical 15-20 min drive. Should I not even be driving it? Caring about this car's well-being as much as I do, I cringe at the thought of something coming apart as Im doing 40 mph and having something under there get twisted and bent beyond all recognition. :(
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane


Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #2
Dangit......ya really think that's it? :rolleyes: Great mom will be THRILLED. "Yeah I have to rent a hoist or something cause I need to pull the engine out". Maybe I can find a buddy to help out or something. I got someone in mind but I'll have to see if he'll have the time. Definitely would be over the summer for sure, set aside a weekend or something.
 
Well if/when I were to get new motor mounts I'd certainly get some "Chuck W"'s and ONLY those. ;)
 
I reeeeally dont need this. 20 year old car + college student = EPIC FAIL.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #3
you dont need a hoist.
you dont need to pull the motor out.
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #4
it could be other things as well...

To check the motor mounts, get someone that really trusts you, block the tires if you want. Pop the hood and then put it in drive and rev while laying on the brakes. If your motor mounts are half as bad as mine were, the engine will lift by quite a bit. You can check the other side by doing it in reverse.

Oh and dont have the person you trust stand right infront of you, unless you dont like them...
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #5
Quote
Dangit......ya really think that's it?

Yep, pretty sure. Right now your engine needs to go upward to allow clearance between the header and the steering column. On cars with floor shifters, the typical motor mount sag that we get from these liquid-filled mounts over time goes primarily unnoticed. But with column shifters, yeah, you notice right away that there's a huge clearance problem.

Now you could replace the rubber only with new parts from the parts store, and those will get you another 10+ years of service. Eventually they will sag again though. Chuck's mounts permanently solve the problem. Although I do have to make a disclaimer here that every car and setup is different, and what works for one person might not work for you, but based upon multiple reports and experience, you should be fine with them. It's up to you as to which way to go.

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #6
Masterblaster did a whole write up on this,, i think it was a sticky for a long time iirc.  he drew up the linkage and flipped soemthing,, trimmed something else and put it all back together.

i gotta find that.

or you can do what i did a long time ago on an older project.  Make your own with 1/2'' flat steel.  That will raise it up the 7/8 offset it is now.

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #7
WOW interesting stuff! Fluid-filled? Huh. Well NOW I know why he makes those things. I was like "motor mounts? how does he make anything off that what kinda market is there for that?"
 
Sounds good. I'll add it to the Never-Ending-List. :hick:
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #8
Quote
Masterblaster did a whole write up on this,,
Who, ME????

Assuming you also have a handy hole in the frame just below where the linkage bracket is currently bolted on...



.

.
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #9
Quote from: ZondaC12;205002
WOW interesting stuff! Fluid-filled? Huh. Well NOW I know why he makes those things. I was like "motor mounts? how does he make anything off that what kinda market is there for that?"
 
Sounds good. I'll add it to the Never-Ending-List. :hick:


Enough of a market that soon I will have 11 different types of mounts.... ;)

Also, if you've ever looked at the stock design, if you make ANY kind of power, you WILL rip the stockers in half eventually. 

Masterblaster's mod is pretty good...I was mesmerized by the animation :hick:
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon-  '81 Granada GL 2dr

 

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #10
Quote
I was mesmerized by the animation
For real yo! :)

I had problems with the linkage on my old black '86 and the convertible also, before the floor shifter conversion. What I found (and this is just me, personally) is that if the horizontal rod is not kept perpendicular to the frame/engine, there is a high probability of binding or even losing the ability to put the transmission into low gear. Now I did not bend metal or do any welding. All I did was lower that bracket about 1.5" down on the framerail (new holes, self tapping screws), keeping the rod level and perpendicular, and that gave me a little more clearance; otherwise I kept everything in its stock configuration. There is enough play in the other rods/linkage to allow the move downward. But any angle on that horizontal rod made things horrible. Soon as I got it back to level, smooth as buttah, and I got all my gears back. I'm not saying that MasterBlaster's method won't work or is not optimal...I'm just saying that in my experience, keeping a relatively unmodded configuration and using as little effort as possible, all I had to do was move that entire bracket downward and I got the clearance needed.

Still, looking back, I'm sure the motor mounts were sagging on the black car. I'm still running the stock ones on the convertible...so far, no rips in the rubber, but hopefully this spring I'll have the Chuck mounts in. I still believe that replacing the motor mounts is the better solution for you, although it requires more work and money, but in the long run it is a problem you'll never have again.

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #11
I'm definitely not going anywhere NEAR the shifter linkage...that's hardly something I should be messing with. Motor mounts sound good.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #12
So even auto store replacement mounts are liquid filled?  I got 88 Sport mounts when I did my 5.0 swap and they seemed like solid rubber.
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #13
Aftermarket seem to be mostly solid rubber, although I think somebody here had bought liquid-filled mounts not long ago.

Headers banging linkage...or suspension issue I NEED to look at?

Reply #14
Quote from: ZondaC12;204965
20 year old car + a technically inept college student = EPIC FAIL.


Fixed ;)