Factory sound deadener

Topic: Factory sound deadener (Read 5162 times) previous topic - next topic

Factory sound deadener

Reply #15 – February 12, 2008, 02:45:30 PM

ok, well, the fatmat has 3 mil foil. Two layers on firewall and floor = 6 mil of foil. Sufficient? I'm having a hard time finding this stuff. Should theyhave small amounts at home depot? Asked yesterday and the guy thought it was all attached to foam insulation...

Factory sound deadener

Reply #16 – February 12, 2008, 03:01:59 PM

I think all they have at home depot is the foil bubble wrap stuff.
call an insulation company and see if they have the foil. or some you can get from them. unless you need some for your house also.
The foil is very popular in the south and california/nevada.

I'll check in a bit and see how much I have left. mabe I have enough left to send you. how much are you looking for?

Factory sound deadener

Reply #17 – February 12, 2008, 04:08:21 PM

Yeah, I'd think there'd be a lot here in SoCal.

I was thinking about 60-70 sq feet...? Enough to cover the firewall, trans hump and floorboards to the rear seat. How heavy would that much be?

Factory sound deadener

Reply #18 – February 12, 2008, 04:24:05 PM

I can get this in my area:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=13357-56291-13357&lpage=none

But 5/16"? Can I pop the bubble layer in the middle? LOL

Factory sound deadener

Reply #19 – February 12, 2008, 04:39:37 PM

i tell you to soak the old stuff down with engine degreaser. that will help break down the bond that holds it on. it worked great for removing body side molding without hurting the paint. the stuff just about fell off used a bondo spreader to scape it off and it fell right off

Factory sound deadener

Reply #20 – February 12, 2008, 04:56:52 PM

Used Accumat on my truck not mess and super easy to use but i don't its designed for a full car or i don't think i would want to cut it up to make it fit a whole car..

Factory sound deadener

Reply #21 – February 12, 2008, 05:51:41 PM

You may be over doing your project.
A good foil barrier will cut down 97% of heat radiated through it.
You can put another layer on or under it, but you would again be stopping 97% of heat radiated. But the 2nd layer would only be stopping 97% of the 3% that filtered through the 1st layer. (you do the math, because I can't figure that out. lol) So I would say that it wouldn't be worth another layer it unless you've got it laying around or someone gave you some.
or unless you want that other 2% of protection. I don't think anyone would notice an amount that small.

As long as the mat that your putting down, has no spaces between pieces, you will have a good barrier against heat.

Its like soundproofing, all it takes is a small hole to let sound pass through. use the same theory with radiant heat and you'll stop it.

and if you still want some more, I have about 20-30 feet left on my 4 foot roll.

BTW that bubble wrap stuff would work real good behind your back seat.

Factory sound deadener

Reply #22 – February 12, 2008, 06:01:20 PM

Quote from: booksix;203330

So, this rubbery, gooey, tar like mat underneath my carpet... Is this supposed to be sound deadening material? I am putting dynamat in the 'bird so I want to pull it out to make sure I get maximum dynamat-to-metal contact. Thoughts?

Why bother removing it if your planning on replacing it with a Dynamat anyway?
I always figured the only reason to remove it was for the racer that wanted to save as much weight as possible.

I have some Dynamat ready to install in my car when the weather gets back into the 50° range and higher, but I was just going to leave the factory stuff in place and then fill in everywhere that they missed with the Dynamat.

Brent

Factory sound deadener

Reply #23 – February 12, 2008, 06:14:40 PM

Well, it may sound like over kill, but here's my thought process:

Good foil will block 97%, you're right, I read it all over the net. But the slightly thinner stuff on the back of the FatMat is probably poor quality. So, if it blocks even 40%, a second layer will block 40% of the remain 60%. Also, I was already planning two layers because my whole goal with this car is the comfort of luxury and the performance of a sports car. Does this all make sense?

And BCA, I replace for the above reason and because the factory stuff sucks. why keep it in there doing nothing... my car has a lot of road noise and gets so hot I can barely touch the sheet metal on the floor (with the factory stuff that is)! That's no fun in SoCal!

Factory sound deadener

Reply #24 – February 12, 2008, 06:53:50 PM

Quote from: BCA;203769

Why bother removing it if your planning on replacing it with a Dynamat anyway?

I'd hazard a guess that the aftermarket sound deadeners are superior to the OEM stuff. I don't have any empirical evidence to back me up though.

I would also like to start from a clean sheet, so to speak.

WRT the foil:
The optimum placement of a Fatmat type barrier is on the exterior of your firewall. The aluminum foil is good for rejecting heat via radiation. There isn't a lot of radiation going on in the interior of your car. When applied to the interior of your vehicle, the butyl layer becomes the primary insulator of heat, not the aluminum foil.

Factory sound deadener

Reply #25 – February 12, 2008, 06:57:44 PM

I recall reading that for optimal absorbance of the sheet metal resonance that the "Fatmat" has to be in direct contact with the sheet metal.

And on Jeremy's note. Wonder if covering the bottom of the car would help?

Factory sound deadener

Reply #26 – February 12, 2008, 07:16:08 PM

It will be in direct contact... it's best for heat and sounds. that's why you remove the stock stuff and lay it down, pressed hard with a roller. No different inside or out. Now, the radiation factor as Jeremy is saying may be true, but I don't think I'm going to put it on the "outside" of the firewall...

Factory sound deadener

Reply #27 – February 12, 2008, 07:16:17 PM

Quote from: CougarSE;203786

I recall reading that for optimal absorbance of the sheet metal resonance that the "Fatmat" has to be in direct contact with the sheet metal.

Direct contact will increase the Damplifier's (I'll use Second Skins's product name instead of Fatmat because I'm a shill) effectiveness, at least wrt to sound dampening. It will have negligible effects on heat transfer.

Quote

And on Jeremy's note. Wonder if covering the bottom of the car would help?

The only place where Damplifier would be useful on the bottom would be directly above the exhaust system. However I don't think it is suitable for outside application. Something like SS Firewall would work. Fatmat and Dynamat both have water-based products too.

Quote from: booksix;203790

Now, the radiation factor as Jeremy is saying may be true, but I don't think I'm going to put it on the "outside" of the firewall...

It is true. Don't believe all the you read about radiant barriers.

http://www.radiantfoil.com/

Quote from: Tin-foil idiots

There are three modes of heat transfer: CONDUCTION, CONVECTION, and RADIATION (INFRARED). Of the three, radiation is the primary mode; conduction and convection are secondary and come into play only as matter interrupts or interferes with radiant heat transfer. As matter absorbs radiant energy, it is heated and a gradient temperature develops, which results in molecular motion (conduction in solids) or mass motion (convection in liquids and gas). This is to much knowledge..

Radiation is the primary mode of heat transfer for houses? Only in space (where there is no atmosphere, and thus no medium for convection/conduction to operate through).
If that statement were true we'd do away with foam/fiberglass insulation and slap up a layer of Reynolds wrap between the walls.:rolleyes:

Factory sound deadener

Reply #28 – February 12, 2008, 07:33:02 PM

Ok, you lost me! LOL So you're saying radiant foil will do nothing unless it is directly facing the exhaust (meaning on the bottom side of the car)?

Factory sound deadener

Reply #29 – February 12, 2008, 07:40:46 PM

The real way to stop radiant heat is to have a dead air space between another insulation. as in framed walls, you insulate the studs, allow for a 1/2" airspace and put a foil barrier. then drywall or what have you for finish walls.
Its the air space that stops the convection of temp. between the 2 heat extremes.