Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Topic: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be (Read 2472 times) previous topic - next topic

Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

February 28, 2005, 12:25:34 AM

There's a rubbing noise on the front driver side when driving normally. It's speed sensetive, not relative to engine revs, so it's nothing vibrating. When I take a hard left, it stops momentarily and starts again when I straighten out. The tire doesn't seem to be rubbing on anything so I'm kind of lost. The sound resembles that of the way a truck w/ by tires sounds going down the road.

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #1 – February 28, 2005, 12:33:58 AM

Quote from: amooset

The sound resembles that of the way a truck w/ by tires sounds going down the road.

i know that sound,,, jack up the wheel and check for play in the bearings. Make sure the steering wheel is in the lock postion.

try to move the wheel by grabbing at the
12 and 6 o'clock
3 and 9 o'clock

if you feel play,, and you hear that specific noise you described,, id say even if you tighten up the spindal nut a bit more it would be a useless. You might have spindal damage as well. If the noise is that bad, the bearings are separating the inner and outter race.

it could be something else, just get it checked out. If there is play in the bearings, the rotor will try to rub the caliper brake pads if your leaning in a curve or do other wierd things.

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #2 – February 28, 2005, 01:11:57 AM

Assuming I need a wheel bearing, what will that entail? I've never done it so should I attempt it if it needs to be done? If I can't do it, about how much will it set me back at a repair shop?

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #3 – February 28, 2005, 01:37:20 AM

If you have ever done a front Brake job on your car thats 1/2 the work. The next step would be to take the rotor off by removing the cotter pin and taking the center nut off. The bearing should come off with the rotor. For more info go to your local auto parts store and pick up a bible (aka Haynes service manual). You will get more detailed info in that book than I can post in this reply.

BTW, do both side, thats cheap insurance assuming the other one might go bad!

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #4 – February 28, 2005, 02:19:08 AM

Quote from: amooset

Assuming If I can't do it, ?

yeah you can

get new grease,, put some gas in a windex bottle and spray off your spindal and clean up the old grease

i only said bearings cause the sound you described was a very very very bad thing.

cost,, forgot but its cheap.

make it a project and ill bet you can get all the following for under 300bux but it will be close. Go to Advance.com for some prices if your board. Like the bluebird said,, half the work is done when you do a break job.
BTW,, remember the calipers are a Torx fitting. I tossed those a long time ago for allen head types.
bearings
calipers
rotors
wheel seals
ball jounts
outter tire rod ends
grease
struts
pads

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #5 – February 28, 2005, 02:35:01 AM

Well... Took the wheel off and the rotor turns kind of hard. It doesn't move when I try the 3/9 6/12 thing. Wheel bearing then? How long is it going to take me to get all this done? I'm not real quick with something new 'cause I don't want to screw it up.

Can I forego any of these items?:
bearings
calipers
rotors
wheel seals
ball jounts
outter tire rod ends
grease
struts
pads

I'm on a really tight budget and 300 is way too much. I just need the bare essentials at this point. What can I buy to get me going again safely?

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #6 – February 28, 2005, 05:10:58 AM

Quote

The sound resembles that of the way a truck w/ by tires sounds going down the road.

How are the tires themselves? Mine have funny wear on the edges, likely from all my "spirited" cornering (just because the sign before the cloverleaf turn says 30, I'm supposed to slow down from 60? I think not!). Feeling around the edge I get tread-smooth-tread-smooth, etc..., so my tires go vrrrmp-vrrrmp-vrrrmp when I'm going slow, but quieten down at higher speeds.

Quote

Took the wheel off and the rotor turns kind of hard

Took the caliper off too? The brakes will drag if you don't.

Quote

Can I forego any of these items?:

bearings - Not if they're shot.
calipers - Are they seized or leaking? No? Keep them.
rotors - Any BIG grooves on the faces? Ignore little grooves or resurface them.
wheel seals - Only one, on the inside of the rotor. New bearing/rotor, new seal.
ball jounts - I've had the same ones forever.
outter tire rod ends - Are they so worn they're flopping around?
grease - New bearings need new grease.
struts - Again, I've had them forever.
pads - If you get new rotors, get new pads.

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #7 – February 28, 2005, 10:20:59 AM

If you end up having to take it in to the shop it should really only cost around $60 in labor + the cost of parts. I had one of mine done recently and the tab ended up being about 85 after all was said and done. It ended up my inner bearing got destroyed, but had I had the time I would've done it myself.

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #8 – February 28, 2005, 06:09:12 PM

I took it in today to get it fixed. Turns out it was in fact my wheel bearing (duh). The total cost was under 80, and I can drive it now, so that's good. Next time I'll probably do it myself since labor was half the bill. It sucks when you don't have the time to do your own repairs.

Re: Rubbing noise, not sure what it could be

Reply #9 – March 01, 2005, 11:37:51 AM

yeah, bearings are hard to check for the play with the caliper still on unless you pry back the caliper piston and give the rotor some elbow room to flop.

i hope new race's were installed in the rotors.
ive heard its a good idea to check on the spindal nut and readjust after a few runs. If the races were not completely seated in the rotor, they will try to seat themselves as you drive. ,,, thus moving further away from the bearing causing slop.

on the other hand, ive heard that if they are installed right, you dont have to do this. I check anyway. Just jack up one wheel, remove center cap, remove the round cover , remove the cotter pin and castle lock nut, spin wheel, snug hex nut till the wheel only turns about a full turn with all your might. done
put everything back on.

btw,, same full turn applies when adjusting rear brakes also.
this one full turn thing might just be my opinion but its only what ive gathered from others and asking questions over the years.
i cant seem to get a straight answer so i average up responses.