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Topic: Rust under rear window.... (Read 1370 times) previous topic - next topic

Rust under rear window....

My '83's got a bad case of cancer under the rear window that, because of other commitments, I've let go way too long.  Needless to say, this goes beyond just mere surface rust; there are holes in a couple of spots directly under the backlite.  Since I've got 0 experience with bodywork, I'd like to ask those with some knowledge if anyone knows if this piece of sheetmetal is being reproduced or if it can be repopped easily.  Also, estimates of how much I'm looking to spend to fix this CORRECTLY would be appreciated :)

Thanks!

EDIT: I'm keeping the car (gathering parts for an SEFI swap, Cobra brakes, disc'd 8.8, repaint) and other than the backlite, it's rust-free and straight.....that's why "correctly" is capitalized.
'83 302/AOD Heritage (silver/red, full restoration w/ SEFI, 5-lug, 8.8, rear discs in-progress)
'95 Explorer Limited (white/gray, 4x2, 323K mile daily driver)
'97 Cobra (black/black, bolt-ons, 4.10's)
'04 Lightning (black/gray, bolt-ons, stock-pulley gas guzzler)

Rust under rear window....

Reply #1
i have the same problem, some rust under the trim around the rear window(surface though). clean solid floors/doors and such.
the only thing ruining a nice well kept car and eventually ill get around to attacking it but dont want to repaint till i have to.
i  might try what the gm guys do for rust around the windshield and fill what i can in with lead or something to that extent as i dont see that part being reproduced.
"Beating the hell out of other peoples cars since 1999"
1983 Ford Thunderbird Heritage
1984 Ford Mustang GT Turbo Convertible
2015 Ford Focus SE 1.0 EcoBoost

Rust under rear window....

Reply #2
I'd like to have the bodywork done with lead rather than bondo, but I'd imagine shops doing that type of work are few and far between...I'll start looking at hot rod shops, I guess.  What scares me is the fact that this one repair might call for major surgery, and the bodywork was the absolute last thing I wanted to do here.
'83 302/AOD Heritage (silver/red, full restoration w/ SEFI, 5-lug, 8.8, rear discs in-progress)
'95 Explorer Limited (white/gray, 4x2, 323K mile daily driver)
'97 Cobra (black/black, bolt-ons, 4.10's)
'04 Lightning (black/gray, bolt-ons, stock-pulley gas guzzler)

Rust under rear window....

Reply #3
That is VERY common on the Tbirds because of how the water pools there and  just sits. 

You will probably have to find a decent shop to have it repaired "properly". 

One thing you may want to try is to have a couple drain holes installed with "nipples" into the trunk area, and then run drain hoses to channel any water that would collect there away.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Rust under rear window....

Reply #4
I remember talking to a woman in a grocery store parking lot a few years ago that had a gorgeous, recently repainted Fox T-bird and couldn't remember where she told me she'd gotten it painted....until today.  Called them, they said they could fix it, so I'll be taking her in after the holidays.
'83 302/AOD Heritage (silver/red, full restoration w/ SEFI, 5-lug, 8.8, rear discs in-progress)
'95 Explorer Limited (white/gray, 4x2, 323K mile daily driver)
'97 Cobra (black/black, bolt-ons, 4.10's)
'04 Lightning (black/gray, bolt-ons, stock-pulley gas guzzler)

Rust under rear window....

Reply #5
I had the same problem with my 83.  Lots of large holes that I didn't want to fill.  I went to the junkyard and cut the entire rear deck section out of another tbird with a battery sawzall.  I drilled out all of the spot welds to separate the top section (rusted through outer sheetmetal) from the bottom section (roof of trunk area).  I then drilled out the same spot welds on my car and removed the rusted piece.  Clamped the junkyard sheetmetal into place and welded all the spot welds back with a mig welder.  It really wasn't that difficult.  It was a little time consuming, but you could probably do it over a long weekend.  When finished I put body caulk around all the seams.  It turned out pretty nice.  The hardest part is drilling out all of those spot welds and separating the panels from each other.  You will need a few spot weld cutting bits ( broke a couple), a mig welder, and a panel separating knife.

 

Rust under rear window....

Reply #6
Yup, doesn't look like it'd be that hard.....but aside from never doing bodywork, I've also never done any welding.  Leaving it to the professionals ;)
'83 302/AOD Heritage (silver/red, full restoration w/ SEFI, 5-lug, 8.8, rear discs in-progress)
'95 Explorer Limited (white/gray, 4x2, 323K mile daily driver)
'97 Cobra (black/black, bolt-ons, 4.10's)
'04 Lightning (black/gray, bolt-ons, stock-pulley gas guzzler)