84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Topic: 84 hedlights now with pics of relays (Read 4170 times) previous topic - next topic

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #30 – June 19, 2007, 08:08:02 AM

The 2 relay's look the same and they have the same number of pins in the same order. The new on has a diagram on top. I tested the old and new one as fara as makeing them turn on. The new does the old doesn't. I'll get you a pic of them both later today.

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #31 – June 19, 2007, 08:48:55 PM

Here are those pics of the relays.

I did test for voltage on the wires to the relay. So it is like this the Green wire is 12V hot all the times. The White/Purple wire had 0 volts reguardless of key posistion. Then the Orange/White wire had 12 hot at all times. Both the brown and the Red/yellow didn't do anything.

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #32 – June 19, 2007, 10:03:33 PM

I did more testing is seems you guys are right. The new relay is the wrong realy. Then new one pin 3 put power out to pin 5 when closed and to pin 4 when switched on. That is part of the problem. The relay signal wire is always on. Need to figure out why. The auto light siwtch is off. Need to dign in and find the light senor up there. I guess you said I need to remove the dash pad and upper dash part? I did find a ford number in the base of the old number. E3AB-14A672-B1A

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #33 – June 19, 2007, 10:39:25 PM

I am guessing you made the voltage checks with the relay unplugged. With no voltage on the brown wire the parking lights should not be on.

The voltages are correct for the relay unplugged or with the correct relay and everything off.

The new relay with the diagram on the cover is the wrong relay.
It has a normally closed and a normaly open contact. One is made when the relay is de-energized and the other when the relay is energized.

The relay you need has two normally open contacts. They are both made when the relay is energized.

Your relay shows both ends of the coil going to connector pins on the relay.

The relay you need has one end of the relay coil grounded by the mounting hardware.

I think if you get the correct relay you should be home free. (knocking on wood)

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #34 – June 19, 2007, 10:43:46 PM

I'm a slow typer.
I would get the correct relay before i would pull the dash top off.

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #35 – June 19, 2007, 11:28:45 PM

Quote from: softtouch;155634

I'm a slow typer.
I would get the correct relay before i would pull the dash top off.

i heard that shiznit!!

but,, from what i saw in the jy,, it appears as though the sensor can be removed by taking out the instrument cluster,, from there you can get your grubby paws on it.

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #36 – June 20, 2007, 12:02:12 AM

I just did some searching on the Right realy. With the Ford number listed earlier Borg Warner site tells me it is a R647, Rock auto says RY46T Standard brand. is the part by application. The

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #37 – June 20, 2007, 12:26:12 AM

Dash top removal = pretty easy. Just have to watch the 4 screws around the defroster vents...they like to fall down into the ductwork. Highly recommend a magnetic screwdriver for that. Other than that, the whole thing pops off and you have access to the sensor easily.

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #38 – June 20, 2007, 10:01:03 AM

Try this:
With no relay plugged in, the ignition switch in "run", the autolamp switch in "on" and the light sensor covered, check for voltage on the white with purple hash wire.
Have voltage? Uncover the light sensor. Voltage goes away?
If that works your light sensor is good.

On your relay:
You have two connectors on one side and three connectors on the other side.
The two connectors are the "hot at all times" inputs.
The outside two connectors of the three in a row are the outputs to your lights.
The center connector of the three is one end of the relay coil. This is where the white with purple hash wire goes.
There is a metal piece that slides into the grooves on the side of the relay. This is the ground for the other end of the relay coil.

No ground no workie.

84 hedlights now with pics of relays

Reply #39 – June 20, 2007, 01:34:08 PM

Thanks for the info. I retested the Ford realy and it worked using the center pin as the power and the wire piece out the side as a ground. I bet that is the problem. The realy was in the dash floating around. The little clip that holds it on to it mount is missing. So I'll give is a shot with the relay zip tied to the mount for it. I bet this has been the problem the whole time. I'll post back after I try it out.