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Question about model kits

I would've asked this in the model car thread, but after waiting ten minutes for the pics to load through dialup and giving up after about 10% of them loaded, I decided it would be quicker and less painful to just start a new thread :hick:

My question is this: Is the Revell '87 TC model kit any good? The last model kit I bought was a Monogram TC, but I can't seem to find them for sale. I wanna build a replica of my car. When I built the Monogram kit my car still had the chrome grille, ten holes, non-TC interior and hood, etc, so I didn't bother trying to make the TC model look like it. I would take the Monogram one apart and paint/build it like my car but I'd almost certainly ruin it. So again, is the Revell kit any good? I'm not looking for show quality (having only built about three models in my life) but I want something half decent. Also does anyone have a 1/24 5.0 EFI engine they wanna get rid of? I'd hate to have to buy a whole Mustang model just for an engine.

One thing I will do, though, is make the lights work, probably by using 3mm LED's. I might even make a mini sequencer for the rears :D
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Question about model kits

Reply #1 –
The Revell kit and the Monogram kit are the same thing.It has better decals now.Not many of them,but better ones.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Question about model kits

Reply #2 –
As far as the 5.0,I don't have an extra one,sorry.I got mine from a 1/25 Stang kit,and in that kit,you'll have the headers,distributor with the "rubber cover" (actually plastic,but can be detailed nicely).I got my AOD from a '32 ford kit,along with the seperate double sump oil pan.I used an extra T-Bird kit and cut up the rossmember for the tranny and grafted half of it onto my build for the double hump cross member.I also sanded the "ribs" from the taillights and polished them to a nice gloss.I made the dipstick tube and the tranny dipstick tube last night for it.One part at a time is being fabbed up,then,I'll put it all together once the engine is assembled and installed.More chassis work this weekend.I have to crawl under my car and take some notes and make a list of colors for everything.I also am working on some air shocks for the rear made from aluminum tubing.They will be painted white with the black boot.Quads as well.If I can help in any way,let me know.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Question about model kits

Reply #3 –
holy  you have alot of free time to get this detailed into a model but you get alot of credit.  I don't have the paitence to work with so many tiny pieces to get that detailed haha

Question about model kits

Reply #4 –
i have one of the t/c kits its not bad, even comes with a fms body kit
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

Question about model kits

Reply #5 –
Carm,
The Monogram kit and the Revell kit come from the same mold. The original Monogram kit is molded in red and the chrome is often not plated enough (letting red show through). The new Revell re-issue is molded in a neutral silver color with a small decal set and much better chrome. Both kits are identical otherwise and come with a rough interpetation of the Kobel bodykit and FMS ducktail spoiler. I have plenty of both you need one.

For a 5.0, may I suggest the recently reissued Revell 93 Cobra Mustang (if you want a Cobra/Explorer style intake) as it has the nicest SBF ever molded (and that's Scale Auto Enthusiast's opinion as well as mine).

I have about 1,000 models in my collection, have been featured in 3 magazines, and won a few trophies. I'll be glad to help with any questions on any kit.

Question about model kits

Reply #6 –
Hey Mike,which mags were you in.I had mine in Scale Auto and Model Cars.Cool,Homey.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Question about model kits

Reply #7 –
1st one was Scale Auto Enthusiast in Febuary 1996! The other two were both White Dwarf for my Warhammer 40K stuff.

Question about model kits

Reply #8 –
Sweeeeeet !!! It's nice to be published isn't it?LOL.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Question about model kits

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Aerobird Motorsports;140943
Carm,
The Monogram kit and the Revell kit come from the same mold. The original Monogram kit is molded in red and the chrome is often not plated enough (letting red show through). The new Revell re-issue is molded in a neutral silver color with a small decal set and much better chrome. Both kits are identical otherwise and come with a rough interpetation of the Kobel bodykit and FMS ducktail spoiler. I have plenty of both you need one.

For a 5.0, may I suggest the recently reissued Revell 93 Cobra Mustang (if you want a Cobra/Explorer style intake) as it has the nicest SBF ever molded (and that's Scale Auto Enthusiast's opinion as well as mine).

I have about 1,000 models in my collection, have been featured in 3 magazines, and won a few trophies. I'll be glad to help with any questions on any kit.
I noticed that with my Monogram kit - the intake has the red showing through. I think I'll get the Revell kit - there are always some from Canadian sellers (meaning no tax/duty charges) for around $10.

Good idea on the Cobra. Wish I could buy just the engine, though (of course, this applies to real life cars as well). I'm not a big customizer on models, but I think I'd like to at least try to fab up some tubular rear control arms to match my CHE arms in the car. The silver Revell kit will actually work in my favour, as my car will be white/silver when it's finishes (I know you should never leave the model unpainted if you want it to look good, but silver will be easier to cover with white than red).

I cheaped out and rushed the Monogram TC model (meaning I only bought two or three colours of paint and blacked out the underneath and engine compartment), but I just might take my time and do the next one right.

I might even try to find a first gen Lightning for the engine, if I end up using that 351 in my car (yes, believe it or not, I'm still on the fence about that...)
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Question about model kits

Reply #10 –
In my opinion,the best way to lay down a NICE white paint job on a kit is to buy some Model master white primer.Spray a few lioght coats on the car until it's covered well,then,clearcoat over it,apply the decals,and clear once more after the decals have had a day to dry (so they won't wrinkle up),and there you have a great white paint job.Thw white paint goes on thick,and the primer is thinner,but opaque,meaning,no bleed through of the plastic color.It's the best way in my own experience.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Question about model kits

Reply #11 –
Bah! The Dupli-Color Truck and SUV spray paints (touch paints in the big can) have GREAT coverage. I actually built a white TC model before the new ones were out, and I used Oxford White paint. It came out stunning and best of all, being "real" paint you can polish and wax it.
 

Question about model kits

Reply #12 –
Can you lay it down pretty nice without filling in the door panellines,etc?I always scribe my lines deep anyway and ALWAYS start with a flat black,that way,after the paint,the panel lines are black without having to go back and highlight them.I'm still a fan of the white primer/clearcoat thing.But,there are always a hundred different ways.You may wirh to do a practice run on an old kit body and see what looks best for you,in any painting adventure.I can't speak for Duplicolor on models,I use Model master paints,but never had a problem polishing them at all.I give my cars about 48 hours to completely dry.May be overkill,but I like it.Mike has obviously used those paints on models,so his advice on that is the way to go.I can't speak for them on plastic cars.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Question about model kits

Reply #13 –
The Model Master sprays work nice, but they're so expensive! That and you can't wax them. I like the Dupli-Color stuff because it's actual car paint. It lays down like car paint, it polishes and waxes like car paint, and it's durable like car paint. Also the range of colors is huge and always expanding, plus the old factory color match-aroo. When you've built as many models as I have, you HAVE to have a ton of colors :D

Question about model kits

Reply #14 –
I agree,they are expensive.I often use the Model master two stage lacquer paints.Nice stuff.Dries really hard and you can also wax them as well.I have had good luck waxing the enamel MM paints.i use the Show Time stuff from Mothers.No matter which direction you choose to paint,good luck and take your time.Just like a real car,it's all in the preperation.I'm working on my X-Pipe right now for the 1/24th Bird.I'm using aluminum tubing.I just flaired out the header end for the ball and socket look.I still have to make some tiny s for it as well.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..