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Topic: TC rear and CHE arms are finally in but not without a battle... (Read 1046 times) previous topic - next topic

TC rear and CHE arms are finally in but not without a battle...

I finally had a day to waste, so I tackled the TC rear swap. From the very first bolt (lower control arm to frame) it was a battle. Actually I exaggerate - all of the other bolts came out OK, except the two lower control arm to frame bolts. As is typical of anything over two years old in this province, they were rusted to the metal sleeves inside the bushings.

I've had more than my share of experience with this, having done several hundred Isuzu truck frame recalls (replace the whole frame) and usually just burn the rubber with the torch and cut the bolt out. This time I decided to go a different route, as I didn't want to smoke up my garage (or, of course, burn the car - cutting 'em off someone else's bare truck frame when I have to save the control arm is one thing, but off my own car that's still together is another). Since I was replacing the control arms I had an idea - cut a slot in the control arm with a cutoff wheel to enable me to pull it off the bolt, then cut the bolt. No smoke, no fuss. Worked like a charm:


Out with the old:


In with the new. Once these s were out of the way I was clear to start the reinstall:



Granted, it's bolted in and that's it. I've still got to install the springs, shocks, TC sway bar and, of course, brakes (which themselves will open up a new kettle of fish: M/C and prop valve). Eventually I'll have to find a set of quad shocks, too...

One thing that really surprised me was how flimsy the stock uppers are. The lowers aren't exactly visions of stiffness either, but I can actually twist the uppers with my hands
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

TC rear and CHE arms are finally in but not without a battle...

Reply #1 –
Wow I didn't think Ohio would be that much different than Canada.  My 240k mile (at the time) cougars rear dropped out like mess of beer shiznits.
One 88

TC rear and CHE arms are finally in but not without a battle...

Reply #2 –
good job man!
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

TC rear and CHE arms are finally in but not without a battle...

Reply #3 –
Quote from: CougarSE;136792
Wow I didn't think Ohio would be that much different than Canada.  My 240k mile (at the time) cougars rear dropped out like mess of beer shiznits.

Had I only swapped the rear this one would have too - the control-arm-to-axle bolts all came out very easily. Even the upper control arm to torque box bolts came out easily. It was only the lower-to-frame bolts that were hard.

This car has been somewhat of an anomoly. It is by far the nicest condition fox I'd ever owned, and the lowest mileage (currently at 65k), but it is also the only one I've had that has shown the typical Fox problems - power locks stopped working (new actuators fixed that), window popped out of clips, TPS has gone bad a few times, driver's seat had "Fox Lean", dash started cracking, ignition switch burned up, headlight switch burned up (along with park light wire) and that's just what I can think of at the moment.

The body is much the same story - it was mint with absolutely no rust until last year, when the left fender started blistering (my own fault for driving it in salt last winter). Likewise, the underneath is pretty much mint with only a few surface rust spots starting to appear, but one of the front brake lines and the back half of the rear brake line have been replaced by the original owner for some reason. Bolts that never should come out easily do come out easily (such as gas tank strap bolts, 3 of the 4 front lower control arm bolts, 6 of the 8 rear control arm bolts, and the rear seat belt torx bolts) but bolts that should come out easy (such as the front stabilizer bar brackets and front bumper support bolts) don't. Hell, even the bolts at the bottom of the front fenders (at the rocker panel) came out without a bit of trouble, but the screws that hold the plastic inner fenders to the steel fenders around the wheel opening had to be ground off.


An anomoly, yes, and a PITA sometimes, but I love it so...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

TC rear and CHE arms are finally in but not without a battle...

Reply #4 –
Actually if you recall I pulled out my rear arms and put poly bushings in them.
One 88