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Topic: cluster F*cked. (Read 2570 times) previous topic - next topic

cluster F*cked.

i just installed my new cluster (buttstuffogue) and it keeps draining my battery

I believe i have it all pinned right. its just not letting my turn signals blink when the headlights are on..it drains the battery.. its all been happening since i installed the cluster... i really dont wanna put my old one back in but i will if i have to.


Changed alternator and re-pinned buttstuffogue cluster.. we shall see how it goes tomorow.

cluster F*cked.

Reply #1 –
did you forgot to put in the resistor?

Re-read the coolcats article.

cluster F*cked.

Reply #2 –
I didnt put a resistor in when i did my swap, and havnt had a problem.
It's Gumby's fault.

cluster F*cked.

Reply #3 –
its a v8 to v8 swap bud. shouldnt it swap directly? other than repinning of course.

cluster F*cked.

Reply #4 –
Quote
I didnt put a resistor in when i did my swap, and havnt had a problem.

I didn't put in a resistor either. I went from a base cluster to aftermarket, and simply needed to join the two AMP wires (ammeter) to keep the alternator charging the system. That's not necessary for this kind of swap, only for going aftermarket.

There's got to be something wrong with the wiring setup in this instance. The main power wire needs to be the ignition switched 12v+ source (I believe it's white/purple). Even though you're going V8-to-V8, the wiring is totally different. This was before the notion of "plug and play" like newer vehicles have. So you absolutely have to repin things the correct way in order for the new cluster to function properly, and also to keep the battery from draining.

cluster F*cked.

Reply #5 –
i followed the wiring pinout on your site eric. and pinned as such.
 

cluster F*cked.

Reply #7 –
You also have to make absolutely sure that you didn't pinch any wires when reinstalling the cluster - this is very easy to do and can cause all sorts of problems
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

cluster F*cked.

Reply #8 –
Quote from: EricCoolCats;135457
You went from base to V8 buttstuffog?


yessah

cluster F*cked.

Reply #9 –
Quote
its a v8 to v8 swap bud.


I didn't mean for the tach, I meant for the amp wires.

I thought you had to put a resistor between the amp wires, according to the site.

cluster F*cked.

Reply #10 –
the amp wires are sopposed to be connected?

shiznit.

cluster F*cked.

Reply #11 –
lmfao
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

cluster F*cked.

Reply #12 –
Thanks to mr cool cats...  those gauges look nice when they are well lit :D

problem solved

cluster F*cked.

Reply #13 –
well that was short lived :(

The car keeps draining while im driving. i start out with a new battery yesterday new alternator, new starter solenoid, and a new pain in the ass

my moms bf thinks its the alternator. 60 amp.
Mind you I am pushing a killer system 1200 watt amp and such..  idk wtf this cars deal is.. i run all day with no problems.. at night im fcked i run with the lights on for maybe 15-20 minutes.. my brights are no brighter than my low beams.

HELP MEH!

cluster F*cked.

Reply #14 –
Do you have a voltmeter handy?

With the car idling, the battery should be receiving between 13 and 14 volts. If not, then you either have a bad alternator, a bad voltage regulator on the alternator, or your wiring is still not correct.

Really, that's the first place you should start looking for the problem. Forget the fact that you just got another alternator...it can be bad right out of the box, especially if it's a reman that's on the low end of the price spectrum. Been there, done that more times than I want to recall. Might want to take it somewhere and have it tested. Don't be surprised if you're told it's a stuck diode...that's common in a reman.

I believe your stock alt should be 65 amps, not 60. You can upgrade safely to a Mustang 5.0 75-amp alternator; it requires a little grinding on the alt bracket and it rotates the alt slightly, but otherwise it bolts up and your harnesses plug right in.

Another thing...be SURE that the wiring on the alternator is safe, and that no bare wires are showing, especially at the connectors themselves. If you wiggle the light green/red wire on the regulator and you suddenly get 13-14v at the battery...that's your problem.

Oh yeah, almost forgot. How is your serpentine belt? Is the tensioner pulley in the specified range on the bracket? If it's on the low end you might need a new tensioner.