HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions

Topic: HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions (Read 3268 times) previous topic - next topic

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

February 27, 2007, 09:01:17 PM

So I decided to tackle the TC rear, you know, get it ready for installation into the car (new clutches, check bearings, etc). Everything was going fine until I took the diff pin bolt out, and only half of it came. Any suggestions on how to get the rest of it out without destroying the differential?

*EDIT* This problem has been overcome, but new ones have arisen. Scroll down for photos/new questions

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #1 – February 27, 2007, 09:22:27 PM

Only way i've done it is with a small chisel.
Use the corner edge and start tapping it in the correct direction.
Or you could use a drill then an easy out.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #2 – February 27, 2007, 11:50:15 PM

left handed drill bit and an easy out if it doesnt come.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #3 – February 28, 2007, 04:11:00 AM

Mine broke to when I did mine right at the end of the treads,nice way to start the day!.You can't drill it real hard or it will just spin and not cut,use a good cobalt bit.If you can get the easy out into it it should come out.I ended up beatin it out the the otherside no fun, I was replacin the carrier anyway.If I remember you need a 45degree drill regular drill wont let you get lined up.Not positive on that thou.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #4 – February 28, 2007, 07:25:18 AM

YOu can probably just whack the pin really good and that should break the little snout on that bolt and you should be able to get that pin out.

YOu really can't do much with the diff in the car. No way to get an easy out in there.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #5 – February 28, 2007, 10:06:01 AM

The rear isn't in the car, so I have some room (and comfort) while working on it. I can probably make a bit more room by removing the bearing cap on that side as well. I was thinking about shearing the snout off the bolt by beating on the pin as you suggested, Chuck, but wanted to check it out with people who know a lot more about rear ends than I do before trying it :D

I'll probably try an easy out first - the thought hadn't occurred to me because around here, with our salt-covered cars, a broken bolt usually gets that way from rust, and easy outs are generally useless (I don't even own any). This bolt wasn't broken due to rust, though, so it may come out.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #6 – February 28, 2007, 10:14:16 AM

A little heat next time before trying to remove it will most likely keep this from happening again.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #7 – February 28, 2007, 05:47:53 PM

Actually I think it was broken off before I took it out. It offered very little resistance coming out (I used a 1/4" ratchet), and is broken way down in the hole (almost to the very last thread). That's what's gonna make it so hard to get out - it's in so deep.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #8 – February 28, 2007, 11:56:10 PM

Quote from: Chuck W;131781

YOu can probably just whack the pin really good and that should break the little snout on that bolt and you should be able to get that pin out.

YOu really can't do much with the diff in the car. No way to get an easy out in there.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #9 – March 01, 2007, 02:30:53 AM

Quote from: Thunder Chicken;131844

Actually I think it was broken off before I took it out. It offered very little resistance coming out (I used a 1/4" ratchet), and is broken way down in the hole (almost to the very last thread). That's what's gonna make it so hard to get out - it's in so deep.

Somebody said they tightened it till they heard a snap, now they want me to back it off a half turn.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #10 – March 10, 2007, 09:38:54 PM

Well, I got the fugger out tonight. It had been very cold out and I ran out of firewood so I hadn't even looked at it until tonight (mild temps and a load of firewood all in one day!).

I first tried drilling into it for an easy-out - no go. The bolt was harder than my drill bit. I then took Chuck and Sleeper Bird's advice and beat the living snot out of it to break the bolt. It took a lot of beating, but I got it:

Of course, in the process, I destroyed the pin itself (note the cracks at 10 and 4 o'clock):

Glad I took it apart though, as it needs axles and bearings. The left axle had the worst wear, and actually had a strange wear pattern - it has several "flats" like a Canadian Loonie coin (or, for you Americans, like a stop sign, only with more than eight sides):

The right axle was worn, too, but not quite as bad (as if that matters - a worn axle is a worn axle, after all):

So this brings me to a few questions, hopefully CHuck or somebody can answer:

1) Will the diff pin out of my 7.5" open differential fit, or will I need an 8.8" trac-loc pin?

2) Will my 7.5" axles fit? I know they're the correct spline number and diameter, but are 7.5" 88 T-Bird drum brake axles the same length as 8.8" TC disc brake axles? Obviously I don't care about the ABS exciter rings. I know I'll find out for sure when I put the car up and pull the 7.5" rear, but I'd prefer to be able to get the swap done in a day so I can still move the car around, so I'd like to know if I already have the parts (axles, diff pin) or if I'll need to get 'em.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #11 – March 11, 2007, 11:21:31 PM

That sure is an odd wear pattern.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #12 – March 13, 2007, 10:08:27 AM

Quote from: Thunder Chicken;133679

So this brings me to a few questions, hopefully CHuck or somebody can answer:

1) Will the diff pin out of my 7.5" open differential fit, or will I need an 8.8" trac-loc pin?

2) Will my 7.5" axles fit? I know they're the correct spline number and diameter, but are 7.5" 88 T-Bird drum brake axles the same length as 8.8" TC disc brake axles? Obviously I don't care about the ABS exciter rings. I know I'll find out for sure when I put the car up and pull the 7.5" rear, but I'd prefer to be able to get the swap done in a day so I can still move the car around, so I'd like to know if I already have the parts (axles, diff pin) or if I'll need to get 'em.

I'm not sure about the diff pin. I never thoughht to compare the two side-by-side.

As far as the axles go, they are the same length, but since the 88 7.5 housing is wider, you'll need to scrutize the bearing surface locations between the two to see if they'll work.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #13 – March 13, 2007, 04:49:09 PM

I think you found the answer to the ware,The bearings + or lack of oil.It was blueing for a liittle while on the end.You must of known, why did you tear it down?,Sorry I have no answer to your ??,I am really confused about the TC 8.8 + 87-88 7.5.
Please post when you figure it out.

HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! FIXED, but now new problems/questions

Reply #14 – March 13, 2007, 05:43:25 PM

Quote from: kitzdnm;134309

I think you found the answer to the ware,The bearings + or lack of oil.It was blueing for a liittle while on the end.You must of known, why did you tear it down?,Sorry I have no answer to your ??,I am really confused about the TC 8.8 + 87-88 7.5.
Please post when you figure it out.

I did not know - this rear end is out of a parts car that I had only driven a few miles before taking the car apart. I took it apart because I wanted to make sure it's in good shape before actually installing it into the car, as it's so much easier to do this kind of work when you're not rolling around under a car fighting for room. You know, just like one would check out an engine before installing it. My main plan was to simply replace the clutches in the traction lock. The bearing problem just kinda made itself known.

Chuck: If the 7.5" rear is longer but the axle shafts are the same that should actually be beneficial, (I actually read the thread that has all that info in it last night), as it will mean the bearings will now ride further inboard on the axle shaft, in a place they hadn't run before. If it was shorter it would've sucked because the surface would have been rusty. I will be picking up the bearings and seals tomorrow, so I should find out first hand anyway...