Step 1: Suspension. Reply #15 – February 28, 2007, 10:09:51 PM I used a used rack, so I dunno bout the tie rod ends. I didn't change the pump on my car and have no problems, but I don't remember if the rack I removed was quick ratio or not. As for cutting the bolt heads, it can be done - I had to do it regularly when doing Isuzu truck frame recalls - but it ain't easy. You've actually got to cut the bolts down below the surface without damaging the surrounding metal, and you WILL end up with plenty of fire and smoke as the bushings burn out. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #16 – February 28, 2007, 10:58:26 PM Quote from: Ifixyawata;131874So, now I'm sort of shopping for a steering rack. Napa sells a "complete" tie rod to tie rod quick ratio steering rack. I can not recall how much it was though, possibly $60-$80. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #17 – February 28, 2007, 11:00:58 PM Quote from: nirvanagod;131892Napa sells a "complete" tie rod to tie rod quick ratio steering rack. I can not recall how much it was though, possibly $60-$80.I'll probably use a local parts store as shipping on a large heavy item like that might be expensive. Just need verification on the pump issue. I think Chuck said something about it once. He is the suspension guru around these parts. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #18 – February 28, 2007, 11:05:35 PM Quote from: Ifixyawata;131893I'll probably use a local parts store as shipping on a large heavy item like that might be expensive. Just need verification on the pump issue. I think Chuck said something about it once. He is the suspension guru around these parts.I think I may have asked the question about the steering rack before, if it wasn't me it was someone else for sure. From what I can remember, you can keep the the old pump in place. However, if you are replacing all these items, you may as well pick up a new pump and hydraulic lines for it. More cost yes, but in the long run it's probably going to be the safer, wiser choice. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #19 – February 28, 2007, 11:15:30 PM QuoteIt doesn't seem to show two different pumps and I've always heard that you can't use the regular pump with the 'quick' rack. Any truth to this?I've heard this too, but I don't think it matters. I had the 20:1 rack in my LS and replaced it with a 15:1. Never touched the pump and haven't had any problems out of it for two years now. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #20 – March 01, 2007, 04:15:45 AM I researched the rack a couple a weeks a go.The 15-1 from napa is 83.00.I never did find a difference with the pumps.http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=12498 Quote Selected
A small update... Reply #21 – March 04, 2007, 08:39:33 PM Tonight I decided because I had a few hours before work I'd go out and tinker on the 'bird for a while. I got the rack off with minimal problems. Ended up just cutting the old PS lines because I'm replacing them. Rack came out nice & easy with the exception of having to bend some of the brake lines up because they run behind both bolts on the K-member. Oh well, probably replacing those too.I ran into problems once I got brave and tried to take off the control arms. Before I even put a ratchet over the first control arm bolt I got it nice & red hot with the torch. Did y'all know that undercoating bursts into flames when you get near it with a flame? After the small fires (the undercoating and the inside of the bushing) were out, I cranked on the bolt with a junk torque wrench with about 18" of pipe over the end. After a few hard turns it finally started coming loose easy enough. The front bolt of the right control arm was off and came out without major problems. The rear bolt is still in the car. Busted the hell out of that old torque wrench, a cheap breaker bar and a craftsman ratchet. I pretty much stopped there for the night. I decided to take the hood off just so I felt like I'd gotten something done, then I stopped for good.My air compressor isn't working right now, but I have to ask, are these bolts even anything I'm going to be able to get off with air tools? Or am I better off buying about a half-dozen breaker bars and keep doing it that way? Can I even get an impact wrench up onto that bolt at all? Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #22 – March 04, 2007, 08:47:51 PM I didn't have any luck on the '80 with an impact...you just can't get one in there.ON the one of mine I wound up cutting the head off and beating the out if it w/ and air chisel (was rusted into the sleeve) until it finally started to move. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #23 – March 05, 2007, 09:09:47 PM Well, I busted out big guns today to no avail. Went out & bought a shiny new 26" breaker bar, 3/4" drive and some new impact sockets. Nothing. I think I'll try some of the other CA bolts first as Shawn suggested. Maybe I should've started on the other side :hick: I'll give the other two bolts a try and see where I get with them, but I may be torching & chiseling this beehotch out. Another thing I think that might've factored into it is that I heated the front bolt up a whole lot more than this rear one. I'm rather skiddish about putting so much heat on it because of it's close proximity to the fuel lines. Are they a safe distance away that I won't risk a fire? (besides the undercoating and bushings burning up) Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #24 – April 01, 2007, 07:06:38 AM Finally, an update:I decided to crank up the hot wrench and now I've removed both of my front Control arms. I started 'removing' the bushings by the following method:Doesn't seem to be working too well, should I use something to speed the process? Oh, on a pretty cool side note, one of 'em got hot enough to shoot the steel sleeve out of the inside of it. Anyway, my next thing is I'm wondering just how in the hell these things come apart. I remember hearing Carmen say that the bushings from CHE didn't come with the outer steel sleeve so I don't have to mess with those aside from melting all the old bushing out. Regarding the ball joint though, is that pressed in from the bottom or what? I put it in my manual shop press but I didn't want to put too much pressure on it because A.) it's a BALL joint and any downward pressure on it would make it pen 15 to one side. And B.) The metal on these control arms looks pretty weak and I might consider just totally replacing them. I can't even see getting those front spring isolators out at all, they seem to be rusted into place.Are there a set of control arms I can buy that have poly bushings in 'em already and won't throw off all my suspension geometry? Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #25 – April 01, 2007, 09:32:34 AM Yes, the ball joints press in from the bottom. You need a couple pieces of tubing (or rent the tool from AZ) if you're going to use your shop press. You need a piece of tube large enough for the bottom to fit into as a receiver and a piece the right size to press on the outer shell from the top...not the ball joint shaft itself. They will come out with a *POP*.The isolators will come out. Hammer and chisel, or an air chisel if you have one and you'll get them worked out. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #26 – April 25, 2007, 08:52:18 PM Well, I got my new Energy Suspension front control arm bushings today and looking at 'em and reading the instruction sheet, I think I'm going to take it somewhere and have someone with a real press and the correct knowledge of how to use it to get the CA bushings pressed out. I'm too scared I'll bend or collapse the Control arm (as the instruction sheet warns.) Maybe your mechanic dude could press 'em out & the new ones in for me, Eric? Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #27 – April 25, 2007, 10:22:53 PM Are you replacing the steel shells, or just installing poly bushings in the old ones? If you're just installing bushings no press is needed. Simply burn out the old rubber, clean up the inside of the shells with a wire brush on a drill, grab the poly bushings, grease 'em up and tap 'em in with a rubber mallet - no great force is required. I think the warning that's in the instructions that came with the ES bushings only applies if you're replacing shell and all (mine came with the same instructions).Keep in mind that the steel sleeves for the bolts are different lengths, but only slightly. I seem to remember the longer one goes in the rear bushing. I also found it better to put the steel sleeve in first, then tap the whole thing into the LCA. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #28 – April 26, 2007, 01:34:41 AM I'm not sure if you and I have different bushings or what, Carmen, but mine came with the sleeves installed inside and new outer metal sleeves. If it'll be easier, I can try and take the new bushings apart and just put the poly part and the bolt sleeve into the existing sleeves that are already pressed into the old CA's. Quote Selected
Step 1: Suspension. Reply #29 – April 26, 2007, 10:57:08 PM Ok, I'm about ready to say forget it and get all new control arms. The one side is missing a LOT of material around the hole below where the coil spring rests, not to mention I haven't been able to get the old bushing sleeves out for anything.Any ideas on finding some new control arms, complete with bushings & ball joints?I like the price of these, but I'm not sure how well my '85 T-bird and these SN-95 CA's will work together:http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS%2DM%2D3075%2DD&view=1&N=700+ Quote Selected
Topic: Step 1: Suspension. (Read 14676 times)
previous topic - next topic
