home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

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home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

February 02, 2007, 07:59:27 PM

Okay so since not everyone will remember--I finished my HO conversion. She runs great, smooth and everything, but my Full Digital Dash Instantaneous MPG meter is reading about 16-20 when cruising, flat ground, 30 mph road (uh yes obeying law @ 30 mph :D). before the conversion, it would be at about 30-32 MPG at this same condition. Also, the power is very lacking, no more than it had before, maybe less, not sure all i know is this thing's a dog.

I pulled codes according to therangerstation as jcassity posted in DMC24guy's thread. KOEO--11 11 system pass.

CM-- 31 31 "EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR" i take it mine's that one, not one of the other two, because i have a vacuum line going to my EGR valve and then the about 5/8" big sensor connector.

KOER -- 94 44

94 -- AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
44 -- AIR system inoperative - Air Injection

i did remove the crossover tube and plug the holes in the heads in the back as well as not hook up the air hose to my O/R h pipe. in fact all of the hoses attached to the AIR pump i took off. the diverter with that filter thing on it i left on, and put a dab of silicone on the vacuum connection on top of it, as well as plug both vacuum lines that would go to the two different diverters in the air injection hoses.

how does it know what i did? lol

this wouldnt be important though to my issue, right? wrong?

would i have gotten a code if one or both of the oxygen sensors was/were messed up or not hooked up right/bad connection? or does this have to be tested some other way?

i figured it was running rich because of the gas mileage readout.

whadda y'all think?

home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

Reply #1 – February 02, 2007, 08:23:57 PM

Just curious,did you use the silicone to cap a vacuum line,if so you may have a major vacuum leak as silicone will not work to do that and will either leak or get sucked into the engine.
What is your timing set at??? should be 13-14 degrees to get the most from your HO.
Are you sure it is an HO,what did you get it out of,did you swap the eec to the HO one(sure you did as it would not run right)??

home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

Reply #2 – February 02, 2007, 10:52:33 PM

no this was an HO conversion not a swap. i changed the heads, cam, etc.

the timing i set at 12 degrees. someone gave me a similar figure to yours. they said 12-14, so i did 12.

i got sidetracked with something else this evening, i was going to check the plugs since ive driven the thing for more than 50 miles, i wanna see if theyre fouled up---> rich condition. im checking that right now, ill report back.

EDIT-----

alrighty its cold out there lol i only checked one but it looked perfect, just how my haynes manual shows a healthy plug. it was easiest to access (cyl 5). ill check others tomorrow in the a.m.

and ill try advancing the timing a bit more.

home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

Reply #3 – February 03, 2007, 07:35:13 AM

If your at 12 that should be good enough,you did swap the eec to an HO speed density unit correct,not a maf unit???
So heads ,cam,upper intake,injectors,throttlebody and tubular headers with mustang h-pipe have been swapped ???
If you did not change the exaust there is part of your problem,the HO needs to breath through open exaust.
Your probably losing 20hp if your running the SO manifolds and h-pipe,is your timing chain lined up correctly???
Also the firing order on the HO is different, did you swap the wires around??

home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

Reply #4 – February 03, 2007, 09:41:07 AM

yes everything you listed i did. mustang h pipe (off-road type by Summit) stock mustang headers.

timing chain was done "dot-to-dot" etc...

computer is a mark vii computer from vinnietbird.

No O2 sensors...no difference???

Reply #5 – February 03, 2007, 03:06:13 PM

alright i checked the timing, and went to a desolate open straight road with my g-tech to test 0-60 (originally was 9.4 seconds). except i forgot to push the start button and it didnt time it

ughh...and i didnt feel like testing again, was on my way to get something to eat. but it felt SLOW. as in slower than it was.

so next i brought it home, and disconnected the oxygen sensors. started up and ran just like with them plugged in, and drove it around the block and honestly i wanna say it felt like it had more oomph. no CEL light (i thought it will throw a CEL if the O2s arent in? wrong? please let me know)

also interesting was that the MPG readout didnt change. any other tests i could do to confirm whether or not the sensors are ok? should i go back and test 0-60 with em and then without?

if the car was running too rich could i look underneath at my dumps and see visible black smoke? would a lean condition cause these same symptoms? how would smoothness be affected in either case? with the hood open at idle the engine shakes back and forth just a little, maybe a 1/16 of an inch. just enough for you to notice it. but sitting inside the car feels like it did before the conversion.

i know everyone says the stock fuel pump is barely enough to handle the 19 #/hr injectors, is it really? is it able to with 120,000 miles on it? id really rather not have to change that, but...i guess if i gotta do it sometime i gotta do it. id just rather not mess with dropping the tank and the tank straps (rust?) etc.

EDIT---- argh!!! gotta go back online and look at the instructions for this thing--kept reading me the 1/4 mile time not 0-60!!! was out most of the day yesterday testing on a long open road. power and MPG readout. and ive come to the conclusion that there is NO oxygen sensor signal being sent to the computer. it drives the same, sounds the same, same MPG readout with or without the O2 sensors plugged in. ive got two spare new-in-box bosch O2 sensors my dad bought like 5 years ago and i guess he never got around to putting em in, theyve been sitting by the toolbox. im going to order a set of extension wires from wherever the hell i saw em online, and put the new sensors in. ill let you guys know what happens, if im home next weekend ill do it then.

home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

Reply #6 – February 05, 2007, 07:22:15 PM

You sure you got the right pushrods in it? I've been watchin this for a bit and I don't know.Seems to me there's sumptin missin!!!.Maybe to tight.

home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

Reply #7 – February 06, 2007, 11:26:29 AM

pushrods? i re-used the old ones.

i understand what you're saying though, maybe theres a bunch of friction somewhere or something's too tight.

another thing that might be noteworthy is that the car used to crank over for ~1 second cold then fire, and once warm, it would crank for maybe 1/2 a second and fire, also making it seem to cran a little faster, aided by it starting to fire.

now, even when warm, the crank-start process sounds exactly the same as when cold. i cant tell what that means if anything in terms of fuel/air. it could concievably do that if lean OR rich, right?

i think the 02 plug/unplug test reveals a lot, so thats why im going to try extension wires and the spare sensors.

home from college for the weekend, pulled codes

Reply #8 – February 06, 2007, 11:35:15 AM

I had thought about ordering those extensions,but I went ahead and pulled the O2 harness and lenfthened the wires instead.No problems with it at all.Good luck on the Cougar.Keep us up to date.