So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Topic: So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED! (Read 5268 times) previous topic - next topic

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

December 31, 2006, 12:34:32 AM

I get in the car and start her up like I normally do and then I roll the driver side window halfway down like I normally do (I like the window open all year long). Then I light up a smoke with a match ( I had plugged the iPod into the cigarette lighter before I lit the smoke). As I go to throw the match out the window (yes, I litter.....sorry) I notice the thing is moving back up on it's own. I knew immediately to shut the car off.......

Afterwards I looked over to see the damage. Not much really just a dead power window switch (driver side only--the passenger side works) that has fried due to all the coffee spilled upon my consolette over the years (why couldn't they put friggin cup holders in these cars?).

Anyway, The car is in the driveway now with the window cracked open about 2 inches. It's Saturday, Dec 30th. No parts stores carry these switches, the dealer will most assuredly be a 2 week wait, The junkyards around here are all closed on Sundays come this time of year, Monday is; of course; New Year's Day, and Tuesday some places will be closed as well.

It would seem IF I can find a working junkyard switch it is possible I may have to wait 'til Wednesday to get it. It could be even 2 weeks or longer for me to get one and I need this window to go up!
If you're still reading this and are wondering why it's not in the lounge because of my horrendously long rant it's because I'm asking how can I hotwire my current switch just to get the window fully closed? The passenger side part of the switch still recieves power and is working properly(so much for fuses blowing like they're supposed to). Anyone know which wires to put where or is it experiment time?

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #1 – December 31, 2006, 01:45:28 AM

im still up, ill look it up for you before i head to bed.
brb

ok,,looks like you can back probe the connector with a paperclip.

turn ing sw on
jumper the red/light blue (fused lead)
to.......
the yellow for "UP"
the red for "DOWN"

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #2 – December 31, 2006, 01:58:23 AM

I've melted two of those ed switches already :(

Hopefully you got the window up using the diagram above.

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #3 – December 31, 2006, 07:30:01 AM

a Paul its suppose to rain tonight if you don’t get your window up call me on my cell if your nice to my car ill let you use my switch to get you window up. I tell ya I know I have one in my garage somewhere from that tbird I boned out; I just don’t know where to start. Just got home from work its 730am unwinding and going to bed have to go in early for tonight.

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #4 – December 31, 2006, 10:18:31 AM

Tried just running a wire straight from the red/blue to the yellow.....nothin. Do I have to run one to ground as well?

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #5 – December 31, 2006, 12:39:36 PM

Power Window troubleshooting,driver side only.
these steps apply to driver side
for pass side troubleshooting, substitute colors Yellow/Red(up) and Red/Yellow(down)

FIRST TEST
you can back probe the console connector with a paperclip.
remove console cover to get to the back of the switch.
turn ing sw on
leave the power window switch hooked up
jumper the red/light blue (fused lead)
to.......
the yellow for "UP"
ground the red "DOWN"
this will make the window go up

jumper the red/light blue (fused lead)
to..........
the red for "down"
ground out the yellow "down"
this will make the window go down

SECOND TEST, MORE DETAILED
1
turn on ign
check rd/lb wire for power using a meter or test light
power?
if yes, paperclip jumper the harness side rd/lb to yellow(up) and ground the red(down).
paperclip jumper the harness side rd/lb to red(down) and ground the yellow(up)
if no, proceed to step 2
motor moves? yes? replace switch
motor moves? no, proceed on to step 3

2
no power to harness red/light blue wire?
check circuit breaker, if power returns , go back to step 1
to check circuit breaker , proceed to step 4

3
unplug window motor at next avail conn like in the door
if there is another conn prior to the door, undo it first and proceed with the following steps.
if you fail, move to the actual window motor conn in the door and repeat these steps
supply the motor with power and ground
switch positions of pos / neg to reverse the motor direction
does motor move?
if yes, replace / repair harness from console to door such as moon gear area.
if no, replace motor assembly

4
remove circuit breaker
set meter to ohms
read continuity across both contacts?
if yes proceed to step 5
if no, replace circuit breaker and go to step 1

5
apply power to one leg of the breaker
have your meter close to you set on ohms
apply a ground to the other breaker leg by quickly touching / removing
read continuity on the breaker
resistance should be high and is decreasing to a short as it cools off
if it does, cool and return to continuity, the breaker is good possibly / likely good.

possible faults
faulty circuit breaker getting old due to heating/cooling
faulty r/lb wiring from breaker
faulty wiring leading to the door and up to the motor
faulty switch
moon gear in door is cutting into harness
faulty motor

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #6 – December 31, 2006, 06:36:22 PM

christine

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #7 – December 31, 2006, 08:00:22 PM

Ummmm so how exactly did it try to kill you again?

(atleast christine fixed herself)

Scott

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #8 – December 31, 2006, 08:27:47 PM

Quote

Ummmm so how exactly did it try to kill you again?

The switch was actually smoking and the car had that burnt plastic smell. Had I left the ignition on and ran out of the car like I'm sure has happened to someone somewhere, I'm sure the car would be quite the mess.

Scott, I can't even get the wires to jump for the right side which is known to be good (ie. power to R/Y or Y/R for up/down on passenger window) If I slave the switch into position the passenger window works, but removing it and jumping the wires is useless. The explanation of the curcuit next to the diagram shows that it goes from POWER to UP to MOTOR to DOWN to GROUND for going up and POWER, DOWN, MOTOR, UP, and GROUND for going down.... From this explanation it would seem I'd have to run a separate power source to check at the connector as well to account for polarity....Am I correct in this assumption?

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #9 – December 31, 2006, 08:30:21 PM

?????

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #10 – December 31, 2006, 09:54:07 PM

i think i see what you are saying,, i think.,,,,,,,

so go ahead and just unhook the switch

supply power to the two legs that feed the motor.
put power /ground on the red / yellow respectively.
do all this on the conn there in the console
the window will either go up or down if all the wiring / motor is good
if it does not,, your motor/wiring is bad
if you smell something bad,, look for the smoke and you'll find yoru problem:grinno:

i know this aint funny, im just trying to help.

i really cant figure out any other way to explain this.

do you have power at the connector in the console located at the red/lb wire with or without the switch plugged up? please answer this and it will get closer to the problem

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #11 – January 01, 2007, 08:43:37 AM

I have power at the red/blue wire with and without the switch hooked up. I'll get into more later....just got home from work and it's pouring out and I have a pounding headache.... See you all in a few hours.....

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #12 – January 01, 2007, 09:01:33 AM

Quote from: Paul Flockhart;121010

I have a pounding headache.....

i dont usually go for gimiks,, but that one stupid "head on" commercial,, That stuff works RIGHT NOW!!!!

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #13 – January 01, 2007, 09:09:59 AM

oh yeah,, btw, I fugged up and i see what you mean now.

you are right. I corrected my problem on the previous page.

when you jumper the red/bl wire to the yellow (up),,, you will need to apply a ground to the red (down)
you can leave the switch in or out, but its best to remove it so you can isolate.

when you switch your leads around and all works as planned, then you can most likely safely assume the wiring did not take that big of a hit.

So the car up and tried to kill me today...... SOLVED!

Reply #14 – January 01, 2007, 03:46:44 PM

OK, as per the improved test method that gives the curcuit a ground, THE WINDOW GOES UP AND DOWN! This is with the connector removed. So it would seem I just require a switch only......Now I just have to wait until a place opens where I can purchase one whether it be a salvage yard of the dealer (nothing remotely close in any parts stores).

Thanks much for your time and patience Scott!:cheers: