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Topic: Shift cable (Read 8834 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Shift cable

Reply #15 –
Quote
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricCoolCats
Special tool, eh?

yup, if i can find a pic, or even a description of it, ill post it
You mean one of these?
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Re: Shift cable

Reply #16 –
there it is! thats actually the exact picture i saw somewhere
It's Gumby's fault.

Re: Shift cable

Reply #17 –
I've got the column,the tranny shift lever, and the linkage for the swap.I'm just not sure if it will clear the headers.I know one way to find out................2 hours and a sunny day.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Re: Shift cable

Reply #18 –
Hey vin what's up,got those parts, lisc plate bracket is mint but i don't think the autolamp sensor works.
No biggy.
Anyways about your problem you have 2 options you can use a mustang aod floor shifter and modify the bracket a bit to fit like i did then just get the selector and console plate out of a tc and make it fit by drilling to small holes and using the sell taping bolts that come with it, the only problem will be 2nd gear on the selector will be 1/2 on the aod, 7 detents on the tc vs 6 on the aod, not a big deal.
Or install the column shift(alot more work)and move the linkage bracket on the k member about half an inch down from the original bolt holes and drill out 2 new holes,then install 2 nuts,lock washers and bolts and yer set.
You will then be able to select 1/2 without the linkage hitting the H pipe.
You may also have to notch one bracket to stop it from hitting the o2 sensor,i did all that and it worked mint for 6 years on my first bird, should only take about an hour so.

Re: Shift cable

Reply #19 –
Sounds good to me.I'll check on another sensor for you.A deal is a deal.Glad the liscence plate frame was good for you.If you need anything,let me know.I'll do what I can.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..
 

Re: Shift cable

Reply #20 –
Hey,I was looking through my Haines manual,and saw that,according to them,there was a shift rod that worked where the cable for the floor shifter goes.I'm going to investigate,and I'll keep you posted.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Re: Shift cable

Reply #21 –
Quote
according to them,there was a shift rod
Yeah, I was thinking of that years ago when I grabbed a floor shifter (and chiseled the mounting pad out of the floor using a screwdriver and a rock) and found out I'd have to take the tranny and valve body apart to flip the lever over (I'm lazy).

Then I noticed some Mustangs in the wrecking yard with rods, and discovered early Birds did too.

Then I thought about keeping most of the column linkage, and creating a rod to connect the shifter to some part of the old linkage.

Then I thought about using a long cable along the underside of the body, curving up to somehow connect with the fully intact linkage (but removing the old lever from the column) so locking the steering wheel would lock the trans too.

Then I put everything in a box in the closet, where it's been sitting ever since, probably never to be used.
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Re: Shift cable

Reply #22 –
pulling the valve body isnt as bad as it seems, just be ready to be drenched by tranny fluid
It's Gumby's fault.

Re: Shift cable

Reply #23 –
Quote
chiseled the mounting pad out of the floor using a screwdriver and a rock


Now THAT is some serious mofookiernicatein' dedication right thar! :)

Re: Shift cable

Reply #24 –
To flip the lever,you don't have to pull the valvebody at all.All you have to do is pull the little pin in the case that keeps the lever in place,loosen the jamb nut,and flip the lever 180 degrees,then reverse the process.Now,to find the rod..................
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Re: Shift cable

Reply #25 –
Quote from: vinnietbird
To flip the lever,you don't have to pull the valvebody at all.All you have to do is pull the little pin in the case that keeps the lever in place,loosen the jamb nut,and flip the lever 180 degrees,then reverse the process.Now,to find the rod..................


That's how I did mine!! :grinno:
95 Ranger Splash 2.3
88 Tbird Sport :ies::ies:
5.0 SO, stainless shorty headers, w/ Magnaflow lers. KYB struts, KYB shocks. 5lug conversion from sn95 Mustang, subframe connectors, drilled and slotted rotors, 03 Mach 1 wheels. sequential taillights.140 speedo

Re: Shift cable

Reply #26 –
You are correct, you do not have to pull the VB to install/flip/remove the shifter lever. I'll tell you how Im getting around the hard to find floor shift components:

Im using a B&M Universal Megashifter which mounts directly to the floor. I also do not have to cut a huge hole in the tunnel because the shifter only requires the cable to go through the floor, so drilling a small hole is all that is required. The B&M shifter requires the AOD install kit which includes a new shift lever and bracket which bolts to the trans. The stock shift lever is removed by pulling the pan and pulling the pin holding it in. This wont be a problem because I will have my trans builder change them out when he is rebuilding the trans. :evilgrin:
1988 Tbird Stock bottom end 306, Windsor Jr's, Explorer intake, 125 shot.
Best ET: 12.11 Best MPH: 113.8 1/4 mile

Re: Shift cable

Reply #27 –
Quote
All you have to do is pull the little pin in the case

Ehhhhh... still sounds like too much work, and I'm tired.  :sleep:
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Re: Shift cable

Reply #28 –
I already have the hole in the floor for my floor shifter.I'd like to keep the factory shifter.I've been leaving info with a lot of on-line salvage yards.No word yet.I'm starting to believe they only made 20 floor shifted T-Birds,and mine is one of them.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Shift cable

Reply #29 –
I have a broken shift cable in my '88 Tbird Sport at this time so I would really appreciate learning about what you ultimately did with your car.