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Topic: Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap (Read 3293 times) previous topic - next topic

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

I've done my swap to a 5.0 HO...but not completely done because I need to find a home for these two wires from the green connector near the EEC (computer).  According to this diagram from Fordfuelinjection.com, the two wires I'm referring to are the ones that go to the VSS, both + (G/BK) and - (PK/O).  However, when I reference my Haynes Mustang Electrical Diagram, that G/BK (which Haynes describes as BK/W) wire goes to the clutch switch on a 2.3, but it has nothing about where it goes on a 5.0---as if the 5.0 does not need it.  The PK/O (which Haynes describes as R) goes to the fuel pump inertia switch. 

So which is right?!?!  I need to know because I think it's keeping my car from running as it should....This is driving me :crazy: !!!

Any help is appreciated.
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Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #1
Which EEC are you using??? SD or MAF?? I don't think the speed sensor makes any difference to a speed densety system, but the mass air systems will throw a code if it doesn't receive the pulse...

The '88 Bird harness usually has the speed sensor wires in place to feed the EEC, the earlier ones do not... I had to add them when I did my swap, as I have a '87 harness...

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #2
I've added a couple of pictures of the connector I'm referring to. It is a mass-air mustang harness from between 1988 and 1993, I don't know what year exactly--I think it's an 1989.  As you can see in the pics, the connector is just above the EEC connector and holds up to 8 wires. I only have the Check Engine Light, HEGO power and the fuel pump wired in right now. But since I am having idle problems I thought it may be due to these other missing wires.

Anyone have any better wiring diagram?

Thanks.
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Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #3
you shouldnt have idle problems without the vss, i did my mass air h.o swap and drove it for a year before i hooked up the wires. i think coolcats has a wiring diagram for that also
95 Ranger Splash 2.3
88 Tbird Sport :ies::ies:
5.0 SO, stainless shorty headers, w/ Magnaflow lers. KYB struts, KYB shocks. 5lug conversion from sn95 Mustang, subframe connectors, drilled and slotted rotors, 03 Mach 1 wheels. sequential taillights.140 speedo

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #4
Cougarman,
Where exactly did you hook them in?  under the dash?  I'm not sure where to do it...

Thanks.:o
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Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #5
I just added the female contacts to the 60 pin EEC plug(they already had the wires, were from the old 2.3 harness) and connected the wires from the VSS to them.

But as cougarman says that won't cause you a problem... I ran a '86 Stang I converted to MA and never did connect them, ran fine...

Have you checked for possible codes???

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #6
I have checked for codes, and I get 67 and 95.
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Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #7
Quote from: jgonza2;112481
I have checked for codes, and I get 67 and 95.


From Tech. Bulletin #089

Ford service codes 1983-1990

67-OFF --Neutral drive switch is open, or A/C was on during self test.

67-OFF-AXOD--AXOD neutral pressure switch failed closed.

67-MEM--Clutch switch failed. Should give neutral drive gear signal when clutch is depressed.

95-ALL--Fuel pump power circuit has a problem.

OFF=KOEO
MEM=Continuous codes/KOEO
ALL= Displayed in all test sequences.

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #8
Hey cougarman, I was curious what caused you to connect those wires after a year...
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Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #9
im betting you can find a ford part number tag on the harness somewhere starting with the letter E or F,, now supply the second digit and you know what year it is.

e= 1980's
f= 1990's

the second digit is the actual ones valure of the year

My engine block is an E0AE so that means its a 1980 block
my heads are C6OE so they are 1966 heads

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #10
Not trying to hijack, but jgonza2, what did you connect for your check engine light?  For some reason, this is one circuit I never figured out...

Also, could someone quick throw down what they did for the HEGO ciruit?  I'm 95% sure I did mine right (just connected the 12v power on the bird side to the power wire going to the HEGO harness on the stang side)...
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #11
My CEL works after my swap, but I dunno exactly why... Guess cause if the color matched, I connected it...

The code 95 is because there is no input to the EEC from the voltage feeding the F/P, makes no difference to actual operation(assumin' the F/P is getting voltage).

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #12
Quote from: booksix;119537
Not trying to hijack, but jgonza2, what did you connect for your check engine light?  For some reason, this is one circuit I never figured out...

Booksix, I've got the full digital cluster, and I utilized the "Check Turbo" light that sits to the left of the tachometer (see pic).  I did that by connecting the PK/G wire from the green connector over to the instrument cluster (BROWN plug, position 5).
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Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #13
thanks jgonza2, I'll check that out...

as for the other stuff...  I've also just found some dead end wires (now that I'm going back over my connections).  I guess my situation is NOW different cause about 7 months ago I tore my car down and put all new motor, trans, brake/lines/booster/etc... in and now I'm removing the extra wiring that has been tucked in my passenger side fenderwell (I think I'm dropping 100 lbs!!  lol, ok, but really it's a lot of wire).  Anyway, now that I'm pulling this stuff, the black/white wire (HEGO ground) and the grey/yellow wire (HEGO power) go no where (maybe I've got it wrong, but that means I've had no O2's for 7 months...?).

So, I traced these two in the old cluster of wires I removed.  The HEGO power goes to one of the relays that were mounted next to the vac tree (I thought they were both for ABS) and the HEGO ground goes to the 'inline 7' connector which I believe previously plugged into the abs MC or booster somewhere...  hmm...?

I'm wondering now, is the black/white wire (HEGO ground according to fordfuelinjection.com) found at the green mustang connector really just a ground that I can ground out?!?  And where do I find my HEGO power now?  Should I add a fuse link from the old cluster of wires and run a new heavy gauge wire to it?  If so what size fuse link?  I also read somewhere that some people just tap into a 12v ign source.  But with such a heavy gauge wire, I'd think that's a no-no.  What do you guys think?
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Conflicting Wiring Diagrams for my 5.0 HO Swap

Reply #14
New find:  grey/yellow splits on the other side of the relay and goes to the grey 4 pin connector which I believe was over by the M/C.  perhaps this was where the 2.3 HEGO harness connected (which still doesn't explain where the 12v comes from unless it's from that relay)

Also, I have two plain tan wires coming from the mustang harness (green connector) going to a yellow/black wire (at the grey 6 pin TC connector) which goes through that old chunk of removed wiring and ends at the TC self-test connector (which is now removed).  I'm gonna check some diagrams, but if anyone's got a clue for any of this it'd save me some time (and hopefully help others)...
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats