3g alternator install problem

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3g alternator install problem

October 26, 2006, 08:54:00 PM

I have a 1988 T-bird Sport with a newly-installed PA-Performance 130A alternator. Unfortunately, when I started it for the first time, I initially noticed that the voltage was low. Several seconds later, smoke appeared from the solenoid area, and it appears that the fusible link was burning out.
The car seems to have a non-standard wiring scheme that goes as follows:
D-shaped regulator plug:
A = yellow/white wire
S = light green/red wire
I = black(?) wire

Rectangular-shaped output plug:
no white/black wire
2 black/orange wires.

Despite the different wiring scheme from a '88 mustang ( and even pre-87 cars), it worked fine with the stock alternator, but all my searching online has not produced a similar setup. I plugged the d-plug directly into the 3g's regulator, spliced the stator wire into the light green/red wire and totally disconnected the other plug since I'm using PA's 4g wire kit anyways.
I hope I didn't fry my new alternator, but can any of you please help me out? Thanks.

Sloan

3g alternator install problem

Reply #1 – October 26, 2006, 09:53:25 PM

easy way is to buy this
http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=28&rP=searching,cat@Plugs+and+Wire+Kits,cR@categories

or make it yourself

only connection to splice into existing wires is to the green key switched power

the small plug is self explanitoy, and the terminal goes to the power stud

then just run a 4 ga fused wire to the solenoid or battery +

3g alternator install problem

Reply #2 – October 26, 2006, 10:47:18 PM

Sounds like you need to run the wire to the small single wire spot on the alternator. It is one of the wires coming out of the D shaped plug. That tell the regulator inside the alt how much the alt is putting out. So if that isn't hooked up you might have just blown the fuse in the big wire. With out the input it would just keep making more power until it or somehtin else fried.

3g alternator install problem

Reply #3 – October 26, 2006, 10:49:06 PM

Thanks for the reply. If I understand that plug's configuration correctly, The "A" terminal connects to the power output terminal, the "S" goes to the stator and the "I" gets connected to the light green/red wire? That's what makes my stock wiring more confusing. The "S" wire is light green/red and the "I" is black.

3g alternator install problem

Reply #4 – October 27, 2006, 12:06:10 AM

ipsd, sorry I missed your post earlier. the "A" terminal is connected to the yellow/white wire which I assumed was the feedback wire that terminates at the solenoid terminal. I'm guessing that my best bet is to disconnect all but the ignition wire (which will go to the "I" terminal), jumper the "A" terminal to the 3g's output port and jumper the "S" terminal to the stator port? I'll check the continuity of the 4 ga wire to see if the fuse blew, but I don't think the 3g ever initialized----at least my in-dash autometer voltmeter never showed it did.

3g alternator install problem

Reply #5 – October 27, 2006, 03:12:43 PM

I just got off the phone with PA-Perf., and they are of the opinion that the stator jumper wire should be removed. Also, they have never heard of a regulator plug with the black wire in the "I" position, but they have heard of the LG/R wire on the "S" terminal. The harness doesn't appear to have been altered though Ford did change regulators over the years which could account for my dilemma.
In essence, there is a chance that I'll need their custom plug that internally reroutes the LG/R wire over to the "I" terminal while adding resistance as well. Supposedly, the "I" terminal is limited to being powered by a resisted source, but the "S" terminal is not. The black wire on the "I" may have given a full 12v to the regulator and caused damage to the 3g. I'll take it to a local shop and have it tested before going further. Probably have to replace that fusible link too.

Sloan