2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Topic: 2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility? (Read 3566 times) previous topic - next topic

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #15 – October 26, 2006, 11:26:33 PM

The engine in the XR4 looked great, actually. The entire car was untouched, which made me wonder why it was in a junkyard.
I checked the T3 for shaft play, which it had plenty of. I assumed this was why it was in the junkyard... unless the transmission was shot.
I can't recall the mileage of that car, but I will know tomorrow. After all, I need some coolant lines and a thermostat housing.

Let's say I did buy the engine from that XR4 and dropped it into the '86. I would have to use its computer and repin my harness, right? Does it not have the larger VAM and ACT sensor?

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #16 – October 26, 2006, 11:35:55 PM

No, the XR4's used a P-series ECU and will not require any repinning and will drop in. XR's all used the small VAM and brown-top injectors, like your 86. Only the 87-88TC's had the ACT.
Really the ECU doesn't matter. If you are using the 86 XR7 ECU with a boost controller, you are fine. The manual XR4's were rated at 175hp, but they were running 15 psi boost vs the 11 psi your car ran stock. Turn the boost up, problem solved.

Actually the long block is identical to what was in your car originally. Additionaly, the ECU is independent of the core engine. Ancilliaries like injectors, VAMs, etc determine what ECU is required.

Pull your engine out, bolt all of your to the new one and drop it in. Don't worry about the extra from the XR.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #17 – October 27, 2006, 09:40:09 AM

I say do as chuck says and pull the XR's motor. IF anything it could be spare parts. But pull the head on the XR's motor and see how things look in it. I've pulled apart many 2.3t's with over 100,000 on them and 99% where still nice on the bottom end. Many of them you could still se the hone marks. My curent engine is a yard motor I paid $200 for complete with harness and everything except the turbo. It had 120,000 on it and when I pulled it apart still had faint hone marks and very little ridge. I replaced all the gasket and seals. I put all my newer intake and E6 with my t3-4 hybrid on there. Ran great just some start up smoke form the valve seals I didn't change. So I swaped on a fresh ranger head I got and it has been wonderful ever since. SO you can get a yard motor to run dependable. I didn't need to swap the heads but this way I can rebuild that turbo head now and reuild the 84 bottom end. Also I ran it with the yard head for about 1yr before I swaped on the ranger head. The turbo head that came off there is a good head just gonna reuild it with new parts. As for the ECU Check and see what one the XR has, Might want it for a spare. You aren't gonna need to swap anything with the ECU for the motor swap. As long as you just the right injectors for the ECU you'll be fine. Listen to chuck on this also. I did a ECU swap from my old 84 TF ECU to a PC1 ECU so I could run the brown top injectors. No repining at all just hook it up and go. Also you might just want to stick with the injectors you have seeing how you know they work. the one in the yard motor might be clogged.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #18 – October 27, 2006, 01:07:37 PM

Here's the deal.
The engine in the XR4Ti looks to be in about the same shape as mine. The odometer is missing the extra digit, so it only reads 76,XXX. I see that as 176,XXX judging by its overall condition.
The oil in the engine looked clean, but the hard coolant lines were in the same rusty shape as mine.
I've decided to take the head to a machine shop and have it cleaned up, valve job, new valve stem seals, etc.
Then I'll drop it back onto the engine and drive the car until I get enough money for a fresh engine.
Thanks for all the help, fellas. I really appreciate it!

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #19 – October 27, 2006, 01:18:35 PM

Be sure you flush out the cooling system as well (in the block). Maybe while the head is out getting serviced drain all the water out and block off the lower hose, etc and fill it up with some vinegar and let it sit. IIRC that should help clean a bunch of that out.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #20 – October 27, 2006, 04:10:43 PM

An excellent idea.
I will also install a new radiator and thermostat.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #21 – October 28, 2006, 05:57:13 PM

Have the head checked for cracks before they do any other work on it.

It's possible that what marked up the piston was a spark plug electrode broken off (only guessing) Whatever ir was, wasn't in the combustion chamber too long or the piston would look even worse than it does. Which means it might have exited past the exhaust vqlve and passed through the turbo. It would be good to look at the compressor blades for damage such as bent or broken off blades. If the engine has been running OK for you and if you have had it awhile, consider just doing some R&R to the head and slapping it back on. If you aren't going for big HP increasesw, it could be fine for a long time. As others have said these ebginesw have tough bottom ends.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #22 – October 28, 2006, 07:29:39 PM

Something id do, I would turn the crank over by hand, and see how that cylinder wall looks. If its gouged up, you may have problems, but if its not, youre in luck.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #23 – October 28, 2006, 07:55:22 PM

I was gona ask Zach, have you checked that cylinder wall? Seems like now would be a good time to do a computer repin for the newer ecu and big vam.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #24 – October 28, 2006, 08:28:03 PM

No, I haven't checked the cylinder wall. That's a good idea, so I'll check it tomorrow or Monday.
The head is at the machine shop getting magnafluxed. After that, they're going to do a valve job, new valve stem seals (finally), and new cam tower bearings.
I'm actually kind of excited.
Claude,
I don't have an ACT sensor for the lower intake, so I can't yet do that swap. Besides, I'd like to do this job first and make sure it runs well and nothing leaks. Then I can focus on the other stuff. I'm a little worried about getting the timing right.

While waiting for the head to be finished, I've had time to take care of the neglected cooling system. I cleaned up both intake manifolds today, and I plan on replacing all of the lines, thermostat and radiator this coming week.
I've also had time for some fun stuff. :)
I spent about three hours on this:

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #25 – October 28, 2006, 08:44:55 PM

Looks Awsome:tg:

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #26 – October 29, 2006, 08:24:20 AM

I did the same thing with my valve cover. Shame its a PITA to keep polished.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #27 – October 29, 2006, 09:32:38 AM

To keep it all polished you just need to get some clear coat and spray it while it is all shined up. That is what the factory does to wheels. I know eastwood sell the Crystal Clear or something like that for metal that has been polished.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #28 – October 31, 2006, 09:17:50 AM

Here's a quick update:

I checked the cylinder wall of the #1 piston and it looks great. No scratches or gouges of any kind, and it still retains some of its crosshatching just as the other cylinders do.
One thing is certain: that head has been removed before. It had a Fel-Pro gasket on it.
Further, I cleaned up the tops of the pistons and found numbers stamped into them. I found a #1, a #3 and a #5. What in the world does that mean? The first cylinder has a number as well, but it cannot be read due to the surface damage on it.
I'm going to get some new head bolts, a radiator, soft lines, and some more gaskets today.

2.3 Turbo - Head Compatibility?

Reply #29 – November 02, 2006, 07:42:15 PM

Holy bacon!
The Ford dealer wanted $38 EACH for the head bolts. That's $400 for head bolts. Yeah, uh... nope!
I've tried the other parts stores but they have to order them. I suppose I'll just use the original 12-points.
How can I custom-make some guides to get the head back on? I was planning on modifying the old head bolts to do this, but I guess I'm using them now.
Any ideas?