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Topic: How do you pull codes? (Read 6040 times) previous topic - next topic

How do you pull codes?

Reply #1 –
Here's my recent post from:
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=8668

[COLOR="Red"]Just count along with the flashes.

When there's a short pause where a flash should have been, write down the number you just had.

When there's a huge pause, wait for the single flash that separates the "KOEO" (current problem) codes from the "continuous memory" (previous problems) codes.

The codes in each section will be repeated twice.
Here's code 32 KOEO, and 21 "memory".

*.*.*...*.*...*.*.*...*.*..........*...........*.* ...*...*.*...*........

3 - 2 - 3 - 2 (big pause) 1 (big pause) 2 - 1 - 2 - 1[/COLOR]

And here's the picture I usually point at:
.
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

How do you pull codes?

Reply #2 –
heres what I came up with....

23-tp sensor out of range, 26-VAF sensor input out of self-test range, 34-insufficient EGR flow, 42-EGO/HEGO switching detected, system rich, 74?, 67-Neutral drive switch open. A/C input high


how would I begine to track some of these down?

How do you pull codes?

Reply #3 –
heres what I came up with....

23-tp sensor out of range, 26-VAF sensor input out of self-test range, 34-insufficient EGR flow, 42-EGO/HEGO switching detected, system rich, 74?, 67-Neutral drive switch open. A/C input high


how would I begine to track some of these down?

How do you pull codes?

Reply #4 –
KOEO, or KOER? What about CM?

How do you pull codes?

Reply #8 –
Reread Masterblaster's post. Also read the thread he linked to.

The 67 may be because you had the A/C on when you ran the test.
All electrical stuff radio, A/C, blower etc must be off when you run tests.

How do you pull codes?

Reply #10 –
I second the sticky..
Also, (and this should be common sense) make sure that whatever source you use for codes is accurate. My truck apparently had an O2 sensor bad according to the code i was getting, and a known good sensor did not fix it...turns out it was the EGR position sensor bad, I replaced it, and all is well now.

One other thing, after repairs have been made, make sure to unhook the battery, and pull the headlight switch on, or ground the positive battery cabe a time or two, to "purge" electricity from relays, etc, to allow the computer to "relearn" the sensors without having bad readings.

Now..if I can track down that able electrical drain in the truck... :beatyoass:
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)
 

How do you pull codes?

Reply #11 –
34 is a normal code for an 87-88 that has had the EGR recall perfomed. If it has a little round black and green check valve in the vacuume line to the EGR valve, it has had the recall performed. Turbo Coupes don't have an EGR position sensor.

67 - you probably had the AC on when running the codes, as others have noted

42 - the 02 read rich for more than 15 seconds. Good chance that the problem IS NOT the 02 itself. Find out why the engine is running rich and fix that. Look at the TPS code and the VAF code. Something isn't right there. Run the KOER tests and see if you get a 42 there

74, you didn't step on the rake pedal at the appropritate time to operate the BOO (brake on/off switch)

CM (continous memory codes) are outputed after the KOEO codes
This article will give you an overview of pulling codes; http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/RetrievingCodes/retrieving_eec_diagnostic_codes.htm

How do you pull codes?

Reply #12 –
Quote from: FordTruckFreeek;106707
I second the sticky..
Also, (and this should be common sense) make sure that whatever source you use for codes is accurate. My truck apparently had an O2 sensor bad according to the code i was getting, and a known good sensor did not fix it...turns out it was the EGR position sensor bad, I replaced it, and all is well now.

One other thing, after repairs have been made, make sure to unhook the battery, and pull the headlight switch on, or ground the positive battery cabe a time or two, to "purge" electricity from relays, etc, to allow the computer to "relearn" the sensors without having bad readings.

Now..if I can track down that able electrical drain in the truck... :beatyoass:



you cant clear codes or anything by doing that.  you have to unhook your jumper wire while codes are being dumped out in order to clear recent codes.  the cm codes cant be cleared until 40 warm up cycles has been reached ,so they say (the manual that is)

on your trunk drain,, i discovered a while a go on my coug the the sockets aged over the years of getting hot and so forth that the bulbs actually can be plugged in backwards.  worth checkign into if you check out your tail light opperation one evening.