Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #15 – June 22, 2006, 03:25:28 PM If you notice the white wire in the diagram is not just hanging loose, it is in a snake fashon... WHY??? So the regulator can pick up a small voltage through inductance and start to to charge. In the harness it is normally wrapped around the B/R wire.Just connect the white wire to the third pin as in the 3.8 diagram, it should charge. Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #16 – June 22, 2006, 04:35:28 PM This would be a good time to buy a battery charger if you don't have one.11v at the battery with the car turned off is too low. It is under charged,bad or has a heavy load on it with the car off.FYI from the '84 shop manual only cars with a "charge indicator light" use the I terminal on the regulator. With an ammeter I is not used.Charge up the battery with your new charger (with it out of the car or with the negative battery cable disconnected.). It should hold a charge of 12.5v. Let it sit overnight, disconnected, to see if it holds.Once we know the battery is good we can go from there.Oem alternators have a paint spot color code so you can tell ones that look alike but have a different amp rating apart. Rebuilds get repainted and the color code is lost.I had a rebuild that was sold to me as a 60 amp but was really only a 40 amp. My battery went down on me while driving in a blizzard with the defroster blower on full blast, the rear window defogger on, head lights on. wipers on full blast. Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #17 – June 22, 2006, 04:35:35 PM Why are you refering to the 3.8L diagram? I have a turbo. Why would I want to do what's in that diagram>?Ok, look, lets forget about colors for a moment."I" is cut on my connector. Severed. Not hooked to anything. "S" is connected but not twisted. (Tests at battery voltage with key on)"A" is connected but also not twisted. (Tests at battery voltage with key on) What now?(Look, when I started doing the testing, the battery and alternator were brand new!)Also, I don't want to sound rude, but when talking about wires, could you use the terms "A" "I" and "S" as not to confuse me with other wires. Thanks! Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #18 – June 22, 2006, 04:39:43 PM Bump...We had a tie Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #19 – June 22, 2006, 05:40:09 PM Any chance this car was converted from idiot light to ammeter? Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #20 – June 22, 2006, 06:33:38 PM The alternator is STUPID, it has no idea what engine it's on. Don't try it, your the one thats walking...My $15.00 U-Wrench-It 3G is wired same as the 3.8 diagram(as was the 2G since the engine swap) , has charged fine for three years(almost seven years total)...softtuch... All '85-up Turbo Coupes have the full gage package, which includes the ammeter gage that NEVER works... Voltage should be 13.8-14.4 v @ 2000 rpm. IF it is in this range with no load, but falls to less than 13v with all the accessories on, the alt is weak plain and simple. Been there myself... Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #21 – June 22, 2006, 06:45:21 PM All Turbo Coupes came with an ampmeter. They don't work most of the time but tCs got them Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #22 – June 23, 2006, 07:18:49 AM Been doing some reading:The regulator switching circuit receives voltage from the ignition switch through the warning lamp control circuit (I Terminal) or through the S Terminal on vehicles equipped with an ammeter.With an input voltage present, the switching circuit turns on the voltage control circuit, which in turn controls the output circuit. When the ignition switch is off, the output circuit remains open and no current flows to the alternator field.On vehicles with a warning lamp, the Stator output (S Terminal) on the alternator is hooked to the Switching Terminal (S Terminal) on the voltage regulator. As the stator voltage rises when the alternator is turning it shuts off current flow through the I Terminal.This turns off the warning lamp.The bottom line is: Voltage to either the I or the S regulator terminals will turn on the field current.The exception being some regulators do not have I Terminal circuit in them and the S Terminal must be used. Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #23 – June 23, 2006, 07:56:29 AM You could be in a vicious circle. Something is deep discharging your battery which damages the battery. Then the excessive load on the alternator could be the battery itself.You need to start with a known good fully charged battery. Then determine if there is a drain on it with the car shut off. Make sure there are no lights on, door not open, bulb out of the under the hood light etc.With the negative battery cable disconnected touch a test light between the cable and the battery post. It should not light. Quote Selected
Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! Reply #24 – June 23, 2006, 09:24:07 AM i didn't see it, but did you check and clean/replace all of your grounds. you could have a slow drain due to a bad ground and this could cause some of the problems you are having... cheap and first thing I would check. Quote Selected
Topic: Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! (Read 2472 times)
previous topic - next topic
Topic: Major Electrical Problem, Please Help Me...please! (Read 2472 times)
previous topic - next topic