Just have a question about the PIP signal and the vane rotor in the distributor. Which crank position should the vane for #1 should pass in front of the sensor magnet? TDC of compression stroke on #1, or ignition on #1? Hopefully that's easy for someone here. Thanks.
Anybody have a diagram, or know which color wires go to which fuel injector? 1988 3.8 V6. Already checked the fordfuelinjection.com site, and I could only find info on the V8's.
Just replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and tested the IAC valve. IAC is good, and the pressure regulator didn't change anything. Found out that pressure is supposed to be 39, but I'm pulling 34 at the rail, and 60 at the filter. Still pulling 11's as codes. I have not done a pressure test yet, but I'm thinking that's the next step. If it keeps this up I might have to move to the dark side, and buy a chevy.
Anyone know off the top of their head what fuel pressure is supposed to be at the schrader valve on the fuel rail? Just pulled 34, and that seems low. Also got pressure at the fuel filter, and pulling 60 there. I'm guessing there's something fouled up with the pressure regulator on the rail.
A quick exercise in google-fu explained a cylinder balance test, but just to clarify we're talking about the same, here's what I think it is. Unplug the spark plug wire for a cylinder, one at a time, and monitor RPM drops. If they're even, then no problem. For the EGR plug, do you mean the exhaust line, or the vacuum line? The 02 sensor is brand new, but I'll go ahead and unplug it to see what happens. I'll also try the IAC check. Thanks for the suggestions, I'm quickly compiling a list of things to try.
The new engine is just shy of 140k. It ran perfectly before the head gasket blew but since replacing it, it has been doing this. I do not remember fuel pressure since I checked it after putting in the engine, way before it blew the gasket, and the gauge was borrowed. I do know that when I checked fuel pressure it was good.
Hoping this extra info will help someone help me. I found a spot on the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor that was chewed up, so I replaced that and also found a gasket that had a part missing between the plenum and the throttle body. Replaced that also. Neither helped the car run smoother, but now I'm pulling a code 33 on KOER method.
For back story, I made a thread over a year ago about my car giving me problems with hesitation. The thing eventually threw a rod, so I got an engine from a same year t-bird. That engine blew a head gasket a few months in. The head gasket job was never done on that engine before. Now this engine is giving me the same issues.
Car specs: 88 Cougar LS V6 3.8 (originally in T-Bird)
Codes: 11's KOEO 11 KOER
Specifically the problem is the car hesitates on take off in any gear. I have not taken it up to speed past 20, but after the car gets to speed it runs good. Park or neutral, there is no hesitation and it rev's up fine.
The car is set in perfect time, 10 degree BTC,iIdle is good, 600 RPM in drive, with good fuel pressure. New EEC, new EGR, new 02 sensor, no vacuum leaks, new rotor, new distributor cap, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new spark plugs and wires, all grounds are connected, new fuel rail off a 92 Cougar (I believe that's the year, but not positive), transmission is rebuilt with maybe 2 miles on it, with clean fluid and brand new torque converter. I've even got videos of the car in idle in park and drive, along with under load: Idle in park Idle in gear With throttle in park
ANY ideas or suggestions that you have I will appreciate. Thanks for reading this much.
You were right sarjxxx, leaking at one of the studs. The thing was all rusted up, and I'm surprised it didn't break on me. One less issue to deal with, thanks for the help.
On an 88 3.8 do the bolts on the water pump go into a water jacket? I've got an antifreeze leak between the water pump and the oil pump, and that's the only thing I can think of.
For anyone that was curious, it was something in the remote starter. I installed the aux fuse box, and it was still priming the pump when I locked or unlocked. I disconnected the wire connecting the remote starter to the fuel pump, and no more spitting gas. I should be able to fix it by installing a relay, I just need to figure out what to use as an activating wire for it.
I'll go over all the grounds I can find this weekend, I'm planning on having the head gaskets done this weekend also. After doing some more searching on the boards I found a post by Thunder Chicken, describing how he rewired his ignition. I'm planning on hooking up an aux fuse panel like he did, and starting with the remote start to remove any risk of burning out the switch.
