It may just be the COLD but the last 2 days all of a sudden my Turn Signal switch will not stay in place for right turns, and sometimes "clicks" twice when I put it on for a left turn. It also does not "click" with the old solid sound when going from dims to brights for the headlights, but that does still work.
I know if I just stop using it the problem is not a problem anymore, but that's not really a solution.
Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.
And I rolled over 254000 miles last week on all original drivetrain.
The main reason, after cost, that stopped me is I am worried about getting the existing stuff off the engine. Bolts that have been in place for 23 years and 247000 miles. I'm worried one gets snapped off and then I am screwed?
I've got a couple buddies who are ready and willing to do it w/me but since it is my daily driver I can't afford for it to be "down" if we snap a bolt. How hard is that to remedy if it happens?
You may have already determined that I am mechanically inept. I can do Oil/Plugs, change/rotate tires, other minor stuff. But that's about it. After that I lean on the kindness of friends and dealers.
About 4 years ago my 88 T-Bird Sports exhaust started to rot off and rather than have pieces fall off a friend and I cut it all off.
All that is there now is the 2 Cats, and the 3rd chamber. Is that 3rd part a Cat or a ler, or dampening chamber, or what?
I have not been stopped for noise and we don't have emissions testing where I am.
Everyone says it sounds great which is why I have not bothered to pay the bucks to fix it. I did buy shorty headers and planned to put on an H pipe and go dual the rest of the way back, just never felt the need to do it.
I have 247,000 miles on the engine and figured I'll wait until the engine needs to be rebuilt before I worry as long as the police leave me alone.
Just to weigh in on this. My 88 Sport locks when I turn the KEY to on even without starting the engine, and unlocks when I turn the key to off. Regardless of the trans position. Always has been that way even after losses of power due to dead battery (too many times to count) and failed Alternator (twice in 6 1/2 years).
I am at 229,800 miles and counting on the original drivetrain. Still gets me 21-23 mpg. Which considering the "new" cars they want $25000 for are only getting 24-27, I'll keep my Bird.
Gonna drive it as long as I can find parts and keep it running.
In the fall of 2K6 my pipes were rotting pretty bad and I didn't want things falling off and damaging the underside. A buddy and I took off the whole exhaust from the cats. I've been driving it like that since and have had no performance problems, or cop stops either. It's loud but not much more than some I hear with decent dual systems. Though a good setup SOUNDS sweeter.
I am delaying putting anything on because I am afraid at 21 years, gettting the manifold off so I can put on the headers + H pipe will be a problem. How do you take out a bolt that has been in place for 21 years and is probably fused solid in the block?
Also am I doing any damage? Should I have anything adjusted (timing, fule mix)?
Runs fine @227000 miles on original engine + trans (AOD) and getting 22-24 MPG highway.
Thanks for the help. I tagged a couple on Ebay to watch.
Is there advice/instructions out there on how to access it to replace it? As I understand it, it is between the RF fender and the wheel well enclosure. How hard will that be to get to?
I have the power antenna on my 88 T-Bird and I believe it is time to replace. It no longer goes up/down (luckily it was up when quit) and reception on AM, yes I listen to talk radio alot, is spotty. Should I get another power, or go to fixed? Is there a tech sheet on doing this, either way?
