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Messages - 385thunder

3
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / 1988 Thunderbird Sport with T5Z conversion, $1800
Located in Hampton, VA, this car is loaded (minus leather and moon roof), in good shape, runs well and everything works.  I bought it from the 2nd owner in October 2001 when it had 72,000 miles, and it now has 141,278.  Aside from some MSD components, the 5.0 engine is stock.  Here is a list of the good:

1. T5Z (Motorsport version) conversion with steel Motorsport bellhousing and flywheel, King Cobra clutch, new mini hi-torque starter and Hurst shifter.  Maximum Motorsports cable eccentric and firewall adjuster.  The brake booster is a new Mustang GT model to clear the clutch cable adjuster.  New Brute Force U-joints.

2.  Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates.

3.  PA Performance 130 amp alternator.

4.  Full, custom Autometer Phantom gauge cluster.  I still have the original cluster that can be replaced with minimal effort.

5.  Mustang GT turbines with spoogeho 225/60's.  They have some sidewall cracking but have over 90% tread left.

6.  Full Pioneer stereo system and speakers.

7.  New O2 sensors and mid-pipe with catalytic converter (Walker replacement).

8.  New front rotors (Raybestos), bearings (SFK) and pads (Motorcraft). There are some extra interior parts including a full weatherstripping set (I bought it just in case, but the stock pieces are still in great shape).

The less than good:

1.  An overzealous yard saler backed into the side (see photo), but the good thing is that it can be pulled out before the body is repainted.

2.  There is no rust-through (just a few small spots on the surface, from #3 below) but the deck lid does have some rust along the inside-seam of the lip.

3.  The clear coat is wearing away on the top surfaces.  This is due to the almost nightly dew exposure the car has to endure.

4.  The surface of the dash is cracked, but I fitted one of the molded caps to it.  I also have the correct tint of vinyl dye, but never got around to painting it.

5.  The AC needs to be charged.

I'd like to get $1800 for her (mainly for the T5Z conversion).  Thanks for looking!

SloanXXX
4
Electrical Tech / 3g alternator install problem
I just got off the phone with PA-Perf., and they are of the opinion that the stator jumper wire should be removed. Also, they have never heard of a regulator plug with the black wire in the "I" position, but they have heard of the LG/R wire on the "S" terminal. The harness doesn't appear to have been altered though Ford did change regulators over the years which could account for my dilemma.
In essence, there is a chance that I'll need their custom plug that internally reroutes the LG/R wire over to the "I" terminal while adding resistance as well. Supposedly, the "I" terminal is limited to being powered by a resisted source, but the "S" terminal is not. The black wire on the "I" may have given a full 12v to the regulator and caused damage to the 3g. I'll take it to a local shop and have it tested before going further. Probably have to replace that fusible link too.

Sloan
5
Electrical Tech / 3g alternator install problem
ipsd, sorry I missed your post earlier. the "A" terminal is connected to the yellow/white wire which I assumed was the feedback wire that terminates at the solenoid terminal. I'm guessing that my best bet is to disconnect all but the ignition wire (which will go to the "I" terminal), jumper the "A" terminal to the 3g's output port and jumper the "S" terminal to the stator port? I'll check the continuity of the 4 ga wire to see if the fuse blew, but I don't think the 3g ever initialized----at least my in-dash autometer voltmeter never showed it did.
6
Electrical Tech / 3g alternator install problem
Thanks for the reply. If I understand that plug's configuration correctly, The "A" terminal connects to the power output terminal, the "S" goes to the stator and the "I" gets connected to the light green/red wire? That's what makes my stock wiring more confusing. The "S" wire is light green/red and the "I" is black.
7
Electrical Tech / 3g alternator install problem
I have a 1988 T-bird Sport with a newly-installed PA-Performance 130A alternator. Unfortunately, when I started it for the first time, I initially noticed that the voltage was low. Several seconds later, smoke appeared from the solenoid area, and it appears that the fusible link was burning out.
  The car seems to have a non-standard wiring scheme that goes as follows:
D-shaped regulator plug:
A = yellow/white wire
S = light green/red wire
I = black(?) wire

Rectangular-shaped output plug:
no white/black wire
2 black/orange wires.

Despite the different wiring scheme from a '88 mustang ( and even pre-87 cars), it worked fine with the stock alternator, but all my searching online has not produced a similar setup. I plugged the d-plug directly into the 3g's regulator, spliced the stator wire into the light green/red wire and totally disconnected the other plug since I'm using PA's 4g wire kit anyways.
  I hope I didn't fry my new alternator, but can any of you please help me out? Thanks.

Sloan
8
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Does my 1988 Cougar need the heater core restrictor?
I used a cable stop. It's an aluminum plug with a 1/4" hole in the middle, and the 11/16" outer diameter allowed it to fit perfectly in the inlet pipe of my aftermarket heater core. Granted, it was just too big for the oem core, but even so, it will fit in the 5/8" hose. It was under $2 for two from Ace Hardware.
9
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Remember my heater core woes...?
I used a cable stop. It's an aluminum plug with a 1/4" hole in the middle, and the 11/16" outer diameter allowed it to fit perfectly in the inlet pipe of my aftermarket heater core. Granted, it was just too big for the oem core, but even so, it will fit in the 5/8" hose. It was under $2 for two from Ace Hardware.
12
Electrical Tech / Custom gauges
Hey guys,
I'm building a custom Autometer dash for my '88 Sport (buttstuffog cluster) and was wondering if the ammeter resistor is still required and if the voltmeter can be connected to the existing wiring. Painless Wiring's gauge harness is being employed to facilitate the change. Also, I used Autometer's web site to determine my fuel gauge, so I bought the ATM-4315 for Ford cars prior to '89. Am I going to have to get the ATM-4318 instead? Thank you for your help.

Sloan
13
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Re: Fuel Level Gauge AND buttstuffog dash guys
Hey guys,
  I'm building a custom Autometer dash for my '88 Sport (buttstuffog cluster) and was wondering if the ammeter resistor is still required and if the voltmeter can be connected to the existing wiring. Painless Wiring's gauge harness is being employed to facilitate the change. Also, I used Autometer's web site to determine my fuel gauge, so I bought the ATM-4315 for Ford cars prior to '89. Am I going to have to get the ATM-4318 instead? Thank you for your help.

Sloan