Well I hit the U-pull-yard last weekend and got one that works. The vpulley is much larger than the original but, atleast i can dive the car. It came of a mid 80's LTD. What's odd to me is that ford would make 2 cars with the same pulley setup but give the LTD's a larger pulley for the airconditioner. Just doesn't make any sense.
Usually they have one of my pully up there but all of the cars were turbos or v8's.
You should have seen this turbo that was up there. It was in really good shape and 100% complete w/ no rust. Sad to see it there. only had 150k on it. Shame to see a car like that go to waste.
That expains why an 86 is spec'd in the junkyard books for the other pulley type. It was the most used for that year. I'll have to call around again to see if i can find the one from an 87 or something.
Any one know why in 1986 Ford used 2 types of AC pumps? As a result of this I have an odd and what no one seems to have heard of power steering pulley. It is both v-belt and serpentine. Model is e5de-3d673-aa.
Does anyone know if Ford used these on any other model/year? Or if there is a cross reference chart some where? Junk yards around here can't seem to find it and mine is bent, i think.
That's what I thought but wanted to make for certain. Any Idea's why my stock temp gauge would read it wrong then? It has a new sender. The gauge worked before I switched engines.
Also I noticed today that it will go up to 225 swing all the way back to 160-180, back to 210-215 and back down to 180 and eventually even itself out. Anyone ever see this condition?
Some of you guys may remember that I had an issue with my car getting warmer than I felt it should. Finaly this weekend I put in an actual temp gauge so that I can get the exact temp. It generally runs from 195 to 215 at the highest.
Is this acceptable? I think it is but want to make sure. What is the max for this car? Also relatively where on the temp gauge should my needle be compared to one with degrees on it.
The cougar finally hit 200k tonight. As a blessing the cougar decided to break my high beam swtich and of course with the high beams on. How hard is it to change this switch? The car is an 86 and the lever will still turn on the turn signals but will not operate the high beams. It moves front to back but has no tension in it.
Check out the first post in this series. Everything's new, including pump, rad, fan clutch, all hoses, belt and heater core. System has been flushed as well, probably 3 times just to make sure.
Cool. Thanks for the info. I figured it applied so last night when i was changing my oil I took a quick glance. It was too dark and the shop light glare was too much in my eye. Ironically the thing has been great the last couple of days.
I had an odd theory that may have proved it self, not sure yet but time will tell. Last summer I rear ended a lady with the cat. In the process of fixing it the rubber spacers came up missing and i keep forgetting to grab more from the yard or from my parts car every time I'm near either. I re'adjusted the radiator since it's loose w/o those so that the cap sits slightly higher than the other side of the radiator. Since then it has been running perfectly normal. I also think that the replacement upper radiator hose sits slightly higer than the stock one I replaced. (yes I still had the original on the car after 194k miles. only replaced it because I thought it was a good idea. it was still in good shape)
My theory is that since the cap was too low in the system all of the air was getting trapped in the upper hose and the top of the radiator. Thus not allowing it to pressurize properly but still giving me heat.
Any guesses that could have been the cause this whole time?
Ok so here's an update. Put in a new thermostat as teh old one could be pushed down on by hand. Not much but enough to make me nervous. The result is better but the thing is weird. It has pressurised once that I know of. I can now drive it for 2 days straight and the needle never goes over half, and then all of a sudden it goes back to running warm. Then runs fine for a while and then runs warm. I'm totally at a loss here. Out of the blue my mechanic called and wanted to know how it was doing, how ironic? He said to bring it in and he would look at it for me again and warranty his work since he told me it was fixed.
Any one got any ideas, I want to fix it my self. It tickes me off that it's making me mad.
SOLVED!!!! Thanks jcassidy. I went out and the thing was working! Of course right? So I drove into twon, 2 miles, and it quit working, like I thought it would, (really was hoping it would). It was raining out so I got a pop and came back out to the house. It wasn't working on the way home, and then it was, then it wasn't, then it was, then it wasnt, so on. I first tried your turn the flashers on and check all the bulbs. I've done this before with no resutl, and today by chance the back farthest left bulb was not looking right. I turned the blinker back on and just touched the wires in the back of the plug and the blinker started working. Apparently my trailer wiring harness that I installed 5 years ago had gotten a short in it where I spliced it into the car harness. I fixed that and now it's working great.
Sweet. Thanks bud. After today I'm starting to think it's a short of some kind possibly. It rained all day here and the blinker would work for the first min the car was running then quit.
The wiggle test is a good idea too. I just remember that a month or two ago when I turned the head lamps on the front left marking/blinker light came on high and would stay on high. The blue indicator for the highbeams was partially on and the left head lamp was dim. I wiggled some wires on the drivers side engine compartment by accident checking the connections and it started working again.
Realated, I bet it is.
I'll make some supper and try ti get out in the rain and check the specifics out on your post.
