Skip to main content
Topic: Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up. (Read 13182 times) previous topic - next topic

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #30
The one by the dist goes to the charcoal canister (ugly black box by the sway bar bracket if i remember right). The other one looks like either map sensor or vacuum line distribution block.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #31
Map sensor gets plugged in to the bottom side of the upper intake? And what about the one labeled "S" on the vacuum tree on the fire wall?

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #32
Can anyone answer that? Need to know where the vacuum line off the tree on the firewall labeled "s"

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #33
I will answer that in the morning when I go out to install the chin spoiler.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #34
The first pic is the charcoal canister, look for a port under the upper toward the front.  The second is the MAP sensor, VERY IMPORTANT since you're staying with speed density.  It connects on the back and you can connect it pretty much anywhere it fits, but it must have full vacuum.  The vacuum hose labeled S on the tree stands for "Source" which means it supplies vacuum to all the accessories on the block, you'll want to find a large port on the back of the intake, I can't remember if it's on the upper or lower, but you can bet that only one will be large enough. It may be a couple inches in under the upper.  If the upper is tightened down, feel around with your fingers under the back.

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #35
Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;449857
The first pic is the charcoal canister, look for a port under the upper toward the front.  The second is the MAP sensor, VERY IMPORTANT since you're staying with speed density.  It connects on the back and you can connect it pretty much anywhere it fits, but it must have full vacuum.  The vacuum hose labeled S on the tree stands for "Source" which means it supplies vacuum to all the accessories on the block, you'll want to find a large port on the back of the intake, I can't remember if it's on the upper or lower, but you can bet that only one will be large enough. It may be a couple inches in under the upper.  If the upper is tightened down, feel around with your fingers under the back.


Sweet! Thanks! The HO Plenum hooked up a little differently than the stock one. The charcoal canister is hooked up on that side so it just goes to the upper intake. And the MAP sensor goes there too. There is plenty of hook ups down there. Lucky me...

Now i just have to get exhaust hooked up!

Thanks for everyones help!

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #36
Quote from: darkknight87;449861
Sweet! Thanks! The HO Plenum hooked up a little differently than the stock one. The charcoal canister is hooked up on that side so it just goes to the upper intake. And the MAP sensor goes there too. There is plenty of hook ups down there. Lucky me...

Now i just have to get exhaust hooked up!

Thanks for everyones help!


The hookup between a standard 5.0 and a 5.0 HO should be the same. They have the exact same vacuum fittings on the upper manifold. Here's a vacuum routing diagram for you.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #37
Apparently a 30 year old starter does not like to be jostled around to get headers in! I put her all back together.... turn the key.... and CLICK! I am like... wtf... So I cooled down for the night and told myself I would come back to it today. I already knew my starter went bad so I replaced that and the solenoid. After I replaced those it fired right up! I couldn't be much more proud of myself accomplishing such a project on my own..

BUT LAST QUESTION.

When doing the timing you
1. Let it warm up.
2. Remove the sprout.
3. Advance or retard the timing mark to 10° BTDC.
4. Tighten down the distributor.
5. Plug in the sprout.
6. Let the computer do it's magic.

My question is does the timing need to be readjusted to 10°BTDC after the computer fixes itself or do i leave it alone?

It's running at 26 BTDC now.

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #38
Quote from: darkknight87;449903


My question is does the timing need to be readjusted to 10°BTDC after the computer fixes itself or do i leave it alone?

It's running at 26 BTDC now.


The computer can only add or subtract a preset amount of timing, has no idea how much base is dialed in... With sprout plug pulled, set base timing  at 14*, if it spark knocks pull out another degree or two...


Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #40
Still having the same issue. As soon as i put the spout back on it goes up to 26-30 BTDC. Pulling codes now.

I got a 23 and 63 not running
63 and 98 running

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #41
I did usr the tps from the original throttle body. Probably the problem there?

The 98 hard fault sounds not so good too.

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #42
You need only measure the volts at the tps green wire with the key on.  Look for between .4 and 1.0 with the throttle closed.  Probably not the problem, though. I can watch mine bouncing from 15 (my base timing) to 26 or sometimes 28 at idle in gear.  I think you're chasing balloons.  You did swap the EEC with a HO EEC, right?  How does it drive?

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #43
Hard fault means a "critical sensor" isn't working properly. You have a tps code, which is fairly necessary.

Looks like everything is working, except the tps.

Read this http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,29736.0.html

Also, make sure you have both ground and 5v's on your map sensor. As long as you do, the computer should be applying proper voltages and you should be able to rule everything out except for a bad sensor.

All tps sensors work the same. As long as you have around 1v at idle and around 4.5v's at wot with no breaks or major fluctuations in voltage through the sweep, your sensor should be okay.

It is possible to have a bad connection elsewhere in the wiring harness, so measure your voltages by back probing the tps and see what you get.

If your missing either the sgrtn(ground through the ecm) or your 5v reference(5v's supplied by the ecm for the sensor) then its possible you have a bad ground to the ecm or voltage supply. Many times this is just an issue with the 10 pin connectors (salt and pepper shakers" they clip onto the intake under your intake plaque).
If you are missing any signals, check for the 5v and sigrtn at the map sensor wires.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Stock 5.0 in 86 tbird want to beef it up.

Reply #44
Quote from: darkknight87;449909
Still having the same issue. [COLOR="#FF0000"]As soon as i put the spout back on it goes up to 26-30 BTDC.[/COLOR] Pulling codes now.

I got a 23 and 63 not running
63 and 98 running

That's what it's supposed to do...

Always fix the 1st code then retest, since 23 & 63 are related that's your problem... Phantom codes are often generated from first one...